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MG TD TF 1500 - Is this normal or OK to use?
Took TD out of storage and have had a rough running engine under a load. Ides great, runs up to 5000 rpm in driveway with no issue. Well I started to resolve this so I drained the tank and checked the fuel filter - carbs, in line, fuel pump and the tank. All were super clean. No sediment in the tank or filters. Pump worked and pumped gas. Carbs were ok. Checked the points -- gap and nice and straight. Moved onto do a compression check. All the plugs look super. All have a nice light tan color, gap is set at .022. Now here is where I need help. When I pulled the number one plug wire the picture below shows what I found. I am NO TD expert. This is the first car I have had without modern plug wires. So do I need to look into this or should I just move onto the compression check? Thanks Joe |
JWP Policastro |
One other question. Can I use modern plug wires. If so could you tell me which ones? Not really concerned about originality. Joe |
JWP Policastro |
Joe - it is humanly possible to use carbon-cored wires, to act as suppressing for a cell phone, radio, etc. (I think there must be something in the archives) But for me, the best thing is to use good old solid core wire, properly secured. I assume you have the original screw-type distributor cap? That is the bet type for the solid core wires. Tom Lange MGT Repair |
t lange |
I do have that type of distributor Tom and yes I should have stated my concept of modern wires was with the molded ends that hold onto the plug. I would use metal core wires. Do not worry about modern stuff in the TD. No radio, GPS or cell phone. I read the electronic ignition replacements requie different wires? Did you look at the picture? Should the copper metal piece that goes on the plug come apart like in the picture. Is it broken? Do I need to replace it? The other three are what I consider to be normal I.e. Stay together in the wire when removed. Looking for anything that might cause a problem. Spark plugs are tan color and gap is .022.. I am doing a compression check in the am but honestly do not expect that to be abnormal. We will see. Joe |
JWP Policastro |
Had the same problem with my plug ends. I ended up sodering the brass clip to my wires. Forrest TD/C22679 |
Forrest Rubenstein |
Joe, Its broken--- that part still on the plug doesn't look like any of the original plug cap parts I have, so it might be an newer replacement type from one of the parts providers. It might be repairable if it just pulled out of the part that holds the wire. Remove all of the pieces and compare to see if you can repair it with a re-stake/punch/solder. Modern wires with integral plug boots are available in copper core wire. Just make sure the wire will go through the distributer plastic screw on caps, because some of the modern ones are too big in od to fit. Look for 7mm wires. Look on EBAY and you will see there are several companies that make them with various prices. |
Richard Cameron |
Joe,that plug end is definitely defective and should be replaced. It could be the cause of your engine problem. The only problem is finding decent plug ends. The Moss reproductions I bought a few years ago were poor (my opinion). I have had good luck with plug ends from an early Volvo 544. I was able to acquire early Champion plug ends on EBay which look very authentic, but have not seen any listed for quite some time. John |
JR Mahone |
Thanks to all. I will explore new plug wires. I obviously have a issue there. That is what I was hoping you guys could tell me. I can not thank you enough. Joe |
JWP Policastro |
That plug cap looks awful new not to be a reproduction. I have some originals that have similar connections but instead of copper they are steel. Not sure what holds them in but that one certainly should not be out like it is and clearly needs to be fixed or replaced. |
Christopher Couper |
This is the Volvo connector. John
|
JR Mahone |
This is the Champion connector (hard to find). John
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JR Mahone |
Joe, The replacement problem is dependent on your devotion to originality. I tried to purchase bulk wire and connectors as we did years ago and could find none locally. Ended up at a hot-rod shop and purchases a ready made set for a small block Chevy. Took half the set and cut them down for the TD. Solid copper conductors improved the smoothness and overall operation. Pulls well up to 70 mph estimated. Regards, Jim Haskins 1953 TD |
J M Haskins |
Well for right now here is my &3 fix. The end, wire and connector came from Napa. They were even nice enough to crimp the connect end with their special tool so it would not come loose. I will deal with originality latter. Need to get Dyno done so I move onto my new head and supercharger. Thanks again for the suggestions. Joe |
JWP Policastro |
Should have read $3 fix. |
JWP Policastro |
Did it solve your engine rough running problem? John |
JR Mahone |
John it did solve the problem. Did not make it a 409 but it runs without stumbling under load. Joe |
JWP Policastro |
Link to a place selling Rajah connectors. The Ford V8 Flathead and Hot Rodders like these and I use them currently on a TC. They are a style from the 50's still being made. The copper core wire goes in the black end stripped just right, and the pointy end screws in and secures it. That clips onto the spark plug end. I am very happy with how these worked out. I think those rubber booties look awful on the XPAG engine. https://www.brillman.com/store/product_detail/ss-sos-straight-snap-cage-rajah-screw-together-spark-plug-terminal-341?gclid=CPCQla6_6swCFUHGGwodMwQAGg |
D mckellar |
The Champion ends are still available, albeit a bit pricey. They come in two styles, early and later. Here are the later ones: http://xks.com/i-7085031-08-0420-spark-plug-end-champion-90-degree.html The earlier ones are probably more correct but XKSS sells them only in sets of 6 for $120(!!!). http://xks.com/i-13159986-co-17456-spark-plug-ends-early-champion-right-angle-set-of-6.html They also sell the straight Champion ends. http://xks.com/i-7083098-08-0415-plug-end-c5479-champion-straight.html |
Kevin McLemore |
This thread was discussed between 20/05/2016 and 21/05/2016
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