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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Lucas 40367 Distributor Needed

Hello All:

I have learned from Jeff at Advance Distributors that he will not be able to rebuild my old worn out 40367 Late TD/TF distributor.

Does anyone out there have a rebuildable unit that I could purchase? I just want to make sure the body is tight on the base and that the central shaft/weight plate is is ok. I can repair everything else.

The early TC/TD distributor is not a possible replacement. If you have a spare 40367 and want to get ride of it, let me know.

Thanks so much,

Jeff
Jeff

Jeff - "The early TC/TD distributor is not a possible replacement."

Why not? I ran an early TC/TD distributor in our late 53 TD for many years. All one has to do is put a 1/4" spacing ring over the shaft portion of the distributor to bring the drive gear up into alignment with the gear on the cam. Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

Dave, Yes, but the advance plate is loose on his shaft.
Len Fanelli

I would imagine modifying an early distributor to work in the TF 1500 would involve too many changes to make it worthwhile. If I can get one to give me the proper advance curve and function, I might consider it however.

Thanks Dave and Len
Jeff

Hi Jeff, Sorry to hear about the news from Advance Distributors. I would suggest that you not limit your search for a replacement to the specific model you had sent away. I am using a distributor body from a 1948 Morris 10 in my XPAG block. It has been converted to a "pertronix" ignition and runs very well. I feel that if you can find a solid body component, that it can be converted to your use.
George Raham
TD 4224
G. L. Raham

Jeff, To add to my above thought, I would have no hesitation in putting the above mentioned Morris distributor in my XPEG 1500 block.
George Raham
TD 4224
G. L. Raham

Loose advance plate --- I have been running several years with an advance plate silver soldered to it's shaft. Works OK you just have to take some care in jigging it to be sure it is square to the shaft before soldering.

I am supprised Jeff said he could not repair the plate/shaft assembly. Or did I miss something?

Cheers,

Bob
bobj50

Thanks guys - I think I am going to try and fix it myself - Jeff S was reluctant to do so as he said the top bowl was so loose. On the shaft/plate, I agree with Bob and am going to try to carefully solder it back in place. I think I can make it serviceable and will install Pertronix to remove the pressure on the bowl via the points plate.

From what Jeff said the 40367 is a weak design compared to the earlier TC/TD unit.

I will keep you all posted. Getting the bowl tight is the issue as someone had already attempted to tighten it by using a punch to expand the casting where it meets with the lower steel outer shaft.

Jeff

Jeff

Jeff, these are often on ebay, you could check with O'Connor classics, Abingdon spares, etc. They frequently have used parts and pieces available. George
George Butz

Jeff, soldering the aluminum housing may be a little iffy- although there are some aluminum type rods.
I would clean the two parts well with a solvent, and then bond them back together with a two part epoxy such as JB Weld.

FWIW
Dallas
D C Congleton

PS- a fellow in the Orlando area had a bunch of good distributor bodies and parts fairly recently. If you want, e mail me off of the board and I'll forward it on to him. George
George Butz

Dallas - I think I may have been unclear - I think we will try to solder the advance plate to the central shaft - not the top bowl/body to the lower shaft housing. I like the idea of JB weld for the outer casing though - that swage fit just becomes loose over the years.

George - I have called OConner and Abingdon. No luck yet. Anglo Parts lists them - but I have not emailed them yet.

I will check Ebay and will email you off of the board for your Orlando contact

Thanks so much everyone. I am anxious to get her back on the road for the fall weather that is on the way!

Jeff
Jeff

Jeff -- I said soldering but the system used was silver solder which requires a much higher temperature than tin-lead solder. Also it is much stronger than tin-lead solder. It is almost as strong as brazing with brass rod.
But flows much better when fluxed properly.

Try it you have nothing to lose. A really loose advance plate can't be reswaged well enough to be usable. I think that is what Jeff was telling you.

Maybe we should set Jeff up with a torch and some lessons in silver solder? No refection on Jeff but I was just lucky enough to work with a bunch of German machinists during WWll (at Kodak) and learned a whole lot of little tricks. You would be supprised at the strength of a tin-lead solder joint when properly done. But it needs area to achieve strength. And there is no area at the joint between the advance plate and the shaft.
bobj50

This thread was discussed between 13/08/2008 and 15/08/2008

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG TD TF 1500 BBS is active now.