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MG TD TF 1500 - MKII airpipe to side panel interference

This is directed at MKII owners specifically because the carbs and air pipe are specific to these cars.

After driving TD/c-8151 for about 20 miles now since it’s restoration is nearing completion I am aghast to find that the louvers are cutting into my NOS air pipe. Needless to say I’m not a happy camper. The engine steady is set with the engine in a neutral position and the buffers are fairly snug. The engine doesn’t have any side to side adjustment in the chassis. The side panel is not bowed in any direction. The dumbirons are not damaged as is the radiator X member.

Is there a way to prevent further damage that I’m not aware of? I’ve noticed many MKII air pipes that have this kind louver damage or at the air pipe bulge on the show fields in the past. I want to curtail further damage and don’t want to install pancake filters.


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060
W A Chasser

Bill: When did the bulge appear on the right hand hood panel for the larger carbs?

Does TD/c-16920 have this but not TD/c-8151?

You see all sorts of air intakes chaffed here.
Christopher Couper

Bill, can you identify 'air pipe' for me? I'm not sure which part you're referring to. I don't think it's something unique to a TD/C. Is it? Bud
Bud Krueger

Chris - ALL TD/C cars had the bulge in the right side bonnet panel, since all Mark II carbs had the larger 4031 H4 carbs.

Bud - the "air intake pipe" is the snorkel that connects the carbs with the oil-bath air cleaner. Early TD/C cars came with the H2 carbs' air intake pipe, but just read Tom McCahill's vitriolic spluttering in Mechanix Illustrated (available on-line)! Early TD/C carbs had the air cleaner flange holes hogged inward to fit this smaller pipe. (For a time the factory even included a different, leaner needle taped to the bottom of the pipe, in an attempt to restore performance with the strangled air cleaner.)

Later Mark II cars used a re-designed "snorkel" with a larger diameter pipe, to increase airflow, and a larger oil-bath unit.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

I have the later airpipes. Tom, any suggestions? I figured you might have the solution.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

Are we not talking about this (but for a MkII)? And the bulge does not clear? Or is this rubbing elsewhere?




Christopher Couper

It’s not hitting the bulge rather It appears to be hitting one louver about an inch forward of the MG logo. I could either have the intake manifold shaved, the air pipe at the carb flanges, or a combination of both in a last ditch effort to gain some clearance but I’d rather not. The contact must not be much as I see no deflection when closing the side panel but... it’s enough contact to show a saw type mark from one louver. I want to nip it in the bud before more serious damage occurs.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151

W A Chasser

I am away from teh car for some weeks now so can't add a photo.

On my late TDII the air cleaner pipe has two distinct notches cut in it on the radiator side of the branch. These clear the louvres.

It came with the car when I acquired it in 1964, so must be considered original. I have not changed them in any way.
Ian Bowers

Is there any chance that the current motor mounts are higher than original? Anything else that could cause the engine to be forward a bit more than it should be?

Sounds like you just need 1/4" more space.
Christopher Couper

Bill, Problem common to many TDs, not just Mk IIs. Suggestions: Chris may be on the right track, but I have seen front motor mounts that are about 1/3" shorter than originals, not taller. Check your new mounts to make sure they are not broken (quality suspect on almost every rubber part these days) Suggest this to gain a bit: The cradle to bearer plate holes, as well as the mount to cradle and mount to chassis are rather sloppy. Jack up the engine just enough to take the weight off of the mounts. Loosen the bolts (one set at a time, ie lower front mounts, top mounts, etc.), and lever the engine over to the left and tighten the bolts while applying a little pressure to the left. Same with the rear mount to chassis bolts You may be able to gain enough this way. I would also slacken the steady bar before doing this (just loosen the outer nut a bit). George
George Butz III

My MG TD has chassis No. TD/C 2211, is a very very early MK ll, production 6. July 1950.
Has the small T-pipe and the standard oil bath air filter installed.
There are horizontal slots in the carburetor flanges so that the T-pipe, with the small diameters, fits the large carburettors.
Is flow-technically unsightly, I think that was already ex factory so.
The bulge in the side panel is enough to make room for the large carburetors.
On the intake manifold side I installed additional 10 mm thick heat protection flanges, the space is a bit tighter, but still enough that there is no contact!

Question: Could it be that her engine is a little too far to the right at an angle?
Controls: 1. The radiator must be exactly in the center of the vehicle.
2. The upper water connection must be exactly perpendicular to the radiator inlet connection in the longitudinal direction.
3. The support under the water pump must be adjusted so that it is free of stress.
This is not for positioning the engine, but only for torque support during operation and to prevent the engine from moving sideways during acceleration.
I have installed two engine mounts next to each other at the front for reinforcement.
A. Meyer
Schweiz
AM Meyer

I've never seen an engine rub at the spot before.

Engine position has to be the flaw; many cars have worn spots on the air intake manifold, mostly at the front outside corner. I've seen manifolds ground down at the corner point from rubbing against the bonnet side, and manifolds ground flat intentionally to prevent rubbing. Usually it is caused by missing, loose or mis-adjusted steady rubbers, or bad engine and/or trans mount rubbers. On a fresh restoration it will obviously not have any worn parts.

I have shimmed the engine mount when there has been an alignment problem, successfully.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

I’ll take another assessment of the situation when it cools down in a few days.
Raising the motor up with shims won’t net me anything since the side panels are basically 90° in relation to the pavement. The engine steady has the engine setting in a neutral position. The radiator is centered in relation to the the apron and sets level on its X member.

Tom you are correct in that many of the air pipes I’ve seen have been severely damaged at the front from contact at the bulge. I have seen several with louver caused damage. I have seen more air pipes with damage than without I would have considered much of it to be from improper steady adjustments or degraded bushings.

W A Chasser

This thread was discussed between 17/04/2021 and 18/04/2021

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