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MG TD TF 1500 - Moss pedal box bushings too big!?*&%?

So I had my pedal shaft built up and machined back into shape. I slid my new bushings on from moss and they wobble on the shaft. I mic'd the shaft and it comes out at .744 and the bushings mic out at .748! This makes for a VERY sloppy brake pedal. Does anyone know if the bushings from abingdon are any different in size? I remember reading in here that some people had to ream out the brake pedal bushings with a brake cylinder hone to fit the shaft. Where did you get your bushings at? I do NOT want to go through all this work and have a sloppy pedal again. I'm very dissapointed... Arrrggg!

Alex
ABW Waugh

I would think that .004 difference would almost negligable. .002 circumfrence room for grease. Sounds pretty tight to me.
LaVerne

The brake pedal bushing is the one that will be the problem. It wiggles all over the place. I would be aiming for .001 so that it rides on a small amount of grease. I didn't go through all this trouble to still have a wobbly brake pedal.

Alex
ABW Waugh

What did you ask the machine shop to build up the shaft to? I have recently removed my pedal shaft due to worn bushes and the shaft is clearly worn, but still measures 0.747". Matt
Matt Davis

I didn't answer your question Alex. I got the bushings from Moss for both the TF and the TD. On the TF the shaft was pretty worn so I welded it up and then ground it back down to an interference fit. I had good fit on the TD with out any mods. You might take the shaft and the bushing to a bearing shop and see if they can hook you up with an undersize bushing. I did cross drill the shafts for better lubrication.
LaVerne

Matt,

The machine shop couldn't build up the shaft MORE than what it was to start with due to needing something to hold onto to the shaft with and turn it back down again. If I measure my shaft at the edge where the circlip goes, it's the same all the way down. Thus, the machine shop did not undersize the shaft.

I'm thinking I may go to a bearing shop and order up some bushings that are undersized on the shaft and then ream them out to my desired measurement.

Alex
ABW Waugh

I'm probably the most recent pedal shaft bushing reaming guy you're referring to. I got mine from Moss along with the shaft as well. I had to ream the bushings lest my clutch return spring would not return the pedal out of free play. All pedals works well now, just wish I had known to test this first.
efh Haskell

Ed,

Thanks for writing...

All,

I decided (AFTER) spending $150 on the old pedal shaft (and a few other things I gave the machine shop) to buy a NEW pedal shaft. The new ones measure out at .748 or there abouts. This will solve the pedal shaft bushings. Thanks for listening to my woes...

For the future though... make sure if you choose to rebuild YOUR shaft, make sure you get it built up to the correct diameter, or that it CAN be built up the correct diameter for a cost that will be reasonable relative to a replacement shaft. No one will fault you for a non orriginal pedal shaft :-)

Alex
ABW Waugh

Hello Alex. Remember that when you press in the bushings the I.D. shrinks in size and you will need to ream to size. This is because ID of the part the bearing is pressed into is designed to be .0005 to .001
smaller than the OD of the bearing to be able to hold it in place. This is a designed crush. After the bushing is pressed into the part the bushing is reamed to size.

Butch Taras
VMG
R Taras

Make sure you assemble everything before tightening up the clutch pedal pinch bolt, install the clutch rod and brake pedal spring to 1) make sure the circlip groove is exposed-either I didn't grind the new pedal bushing flush enough, or the new thrust washers were too thick and I couldn't fit the circlip and 2) check the arm to make sure it doesn't rub on the cover- either the arm on my new shaft was too thick or was welded on slightly crooked. Yet another reason I hate the pedal box! George
George Butz

This thread was discussed between 21/01/2011 and 22/01/2011

MG TD TF 1500 index

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