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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - My first TD

I just bought my first TD. It was parked since 1972. The car is in very good shape. I want to do a full resto. Does any one have any tips.
Don
D.M. Black

Based on my personal experience with my TF for the last two years I'd have to say get a close personal relationship with a bank president or win the lottery. I have done all the work myself with the exception of powdercoating the frame and the machine work that will be done on the engine soon. I would be embarrased to to tell you how much I've spent so far on the car. Get catalogs from Moss and Abingdon spares. If you don't own a digital camera, buy one. Take photos of every possible part you can BEFORE you tear it apart. Make notes and buy a box of large zip lock sandwich bags. Put the nuts and bolts in the bag along with a note of what they came off for future rebuild. Get friendly with the people on this board. They are a gold mine of information and most have "been there, done that" and most happy to share their experience with you. Buy all the books on the subject you can afford. Where are you located in colorful Colorado?

LaVerne
LaVerne

If you bought it on eBay, give us the auction number so we can help more. Otherwise, give us pictures. This really is the nicest bunch of guys and a few gals. Welcome to the club and BBS.

John, '52 TD/C
John Redman

Hi Don

Welcom to the wonderful world of MG TD's. Your question begs a number of others.

First what level of restoration do you want and do you need? To answer this, you are going to have to have to do some inspecting.

If you want a full body off,restore the frame restoration, it is not a difficult car to do, but the abouve advice about taking pictures. (I recommend digital) are a must.

There are also a number of good restoration books out there. I will let others give you advice on these. The Moss and Abington spares catalogues are a must. They assist you in not only identifying the part, but can assist with the correct part for your car.

What is the serial number (on the brass plate under the hood)
Bruce Cunha

Don-

If the car is driveable, my advice would be to use it for a year, or so. That way you can be sure this is the sort of car you want to establish a long term and relatively expensive realtionship with.

Cost is in large part, a factor of how much sweat equity you wish to invest. What you want to use it for, will also be a determinant of cost. Driver/fun cars, are a lot less expensive than show queens and give back much more in the long run.

Safety Fast
Paul
Paul

With all due respect to Paul, don't drive it until a few basic things have been checked and repaired. If the car has been unused since 1972, the rubber bits - especially the brakes - will no doubt be in need of serious work. The brake fluid has absorbed water and the seals and cups will no doubt be in need of replacement. Check that the engine turns over, has fresh fluids, and is not lacking in compression. Also be sure the transmission and differential have been drained and refilled with fresh lubricant. Be sure the steering gear is tight and the boots are not perished.

Then and only then would I attempt a road test, much less the use for a year.

Cheers,
Lew Palmer
Lew Palmer

You have just picked up the greatest hobby there is... one that is enjoyable and rewarding... and the members of this forum are about the most helpful there are... no questions too large or too small.
With luck it won't really break the bank... all depends on how deep you want to go....


http://www3.sympatico.ca/gordonblawson/td/td.html
gordon lawson

Welcome Don!

I would second the comments of Lew and Paul. If the car is in good shape, I would enjoy it as a driver. You can always do a full resto. There is nothing wrong with a car that gracefully shows it's age.

I did a complete restoration on my 53 and I'm still afraid to total up all of the receipts! These cars are expensive to restore.

I'm very happy with the results, but I don't use the car as much as I would an original driver.

Good luck,
Evan

Evan Ford - TD 27621

I just bought my first T series about a month ago, a 1954 TF (1250), car #1260, and it is a DREAM to drive compared to my 1932 J2. I agree that a complete go-over (fluids, brakes,rattles, and a complete list of things to do) is essential. I am having so much fun with this car that I decided to USE it. Every day I tinker with it and make small improvements, like getting all the instrument lights working, cleaning plugs, adjusting gaps, replacing screws and bolts with S/S, and keeping ahead of it all. The car is 100% complete and still has the original wiring. Nothing has been altered from the original and anything changed has been done right. The car can always be restored at a later date as long as you stay ahead of problems and enjoy driving it (her). Best of luck with the TD.
SEAMUS
F. HEALY

Don
I'm surprised no one has mention the value of joining a local MG club or better yet a local T-series club. While this forum is great, nothing can replace seeing a completed car when questions arise about re-assembly or where to have work to done locally. Additionally you have access at the local level here in Colorado to some of the most enthusiastic and knowledgeable MG guys in the whole country. You don't say where you are in Colorado but our club has a strong presence along the the front range and lots of members to share advice on all matters MG related.

Mike
Mike Francks

I hate to scare anyone in talking about cost of restoring a TD. It is somewhat a relative question. A MGB costs a bit to restore (just did a GT) because the TD can be taken apart, I feel it is actually a moderatly easy car to restore.

You can do a little at a time and not spend all that much

Yes, if you are rebuilding the engine or transmission and have to totally rebuilt each, your going to be out a bunch of bucks. But with the exception of these, most other things can be had for a couple hundred a month. Couple hundred for bumpers, to rebuild a guage, interior, carpet, etc, etc, etc.
Bruce Cunha

Lew-

Not to be petty, but my comment started with, "If the car is driveable...".

SAFETY Fast

Paul
Paul

I would think a lot of "stored for 20 years" type of TD's would fall into the same category as mine (24 or so years in a barn)... If they were driven in, then they usually will start up and run again with a few repairs.
The brake cylinders/master cylinder will probably be seized (from the water mentioned above)... With luck and a bit of honing (after getting them apart) you might be able to reuse them...( I was able to reuse mine). Kits are available to replace all the rubber bits.
The gas tank/pump/carbs and fuel lines will be thick with old gas/varnish. These can be cleaned and or replaced... I had my tank sealed with a modern plastic(?) liquid liner. My floats were stuck in the bowls and had to be freed...
Rad hoses were replaced as they were pretty thin. The rubber hose connecting the oil pressure gauge was toast and through it I lost the first 6 quarts of oil... (an MGB braided line fits).
When we finally started it, we found a stuck valve was causing it to run on 3... freed the valve and it has been running ever since (7000 miles).
All lubricants were changed before starting... new plugs, belts were used. The "brand new" 1978 tires were disposed of as driving them was near impossible and new radials installed.
Lots of polishing and cleaning, etc was also done.
I think, above the purchase price, I spent about $3000. That would include every tool and cleaner I purchased...
That got the car back on the road...not restored, just back in business.
gordon lawson

Hi everyone,
First the car does not run. It was parked in 1970 (running cond.) There is no rust anywhere, that seemed like a great start. The tires looked like the originals. Last night I jacked up the car & put in on jack stands, pulled all the tires. I'm having the tires pulled off. The rims will be sand blasted & powder coated in silver. Then I'll get new rubber.
My next plan is to buy a digital camera.
As far as the level I'm taking this project to, I want to do a full reso. on it.
I live in Denver, CO. I figure its a good winter project (and summer, spring, fall)
Thanks for all the advice!
Don
D.M. Black

Don, since you live in Denver I recomend that you check ou the Rocky Mountain Sports Car Club. I don't belong because I'm on the west slope about 250 miles away. Get your Moss catalog ordered now. It doesn't cost you anything. I'm guessing that the wheels are steel but you still might want to re think the powder coating. I have used the powder coating on many applications with only a couple of complaints. One is that it will not flow into seams like paint will so consiquently any welded joints such as those on your rims will soon show rust after they get wet. The other is that if you chip the coating and a wheel is a very likely place, touch up match's can be pretty tough. Congratulations on you purchase. If you get to the west slope look me up.

LaVerne
LaVerne

Having restored several cars, a few thoughts:

1) I'm just not sure I like my restored cars as much as my nice, original condition running 1961 Morris Minor (drive it every day.) On the restored cars the patina's not the same, the smells are not the same, and the feeling's not the same. Of course sometimes parts are simply worn out and must be replaced.

2) If you sink too much $ into it -- which you almost surely will -- you may be afraid to drive it or park it when it's done. Then it will sit in the garage and deteriorate. Every restorer thinks this won't happen to him, but when's the last time you actually saw a T-series car on the road?

3) Lots of repro restoration parts just aren't as nice as the originals. And lots of restored original parts, esp chrome, just don't end up looking right or working right.

4) If you really feel you want the absolutely perfect totally like-new T-series car, save yourself about $20k and buy one for $20k from some poor devil who's sunk way to much $ into his restoration and is now afraid to drive it. There's no shortage. There really is a bundle to be saved buying someone else's baby.

5) Get the car started and driveable before setting forth down the total resto road. Live with it a season or two and see if it's really the car for you. God forbid, you might decide you want something a little more practical and modern (Porsche 356, maybe) or a little more archaic like a TC, or ...

6) There's lot of good advice in the archives about starting cars that have been storage for a long time.

Things that sometimes are forgotten that may well require replacement: i) flexible brake hoses, ii) the flexible flexible fuel hoses from fuel pump to carb and between carbs, iii) any rubber washers involved in holding the fuel bowls to the carb bodies, iv) carb jet seals if they are leaking, vi) needles and seats in the fuel bowls (Many MG's have burned up from gas leaks), viii) engine to frame ground connection.

Once you get started changing the brake fluid and / or rebuilding the cylinders you're going to find out just hydroscopic brake fluid is and just how corrosive steel and aluminum next to each other can be. You'll also learn just how expensive brake repairs can be with six wheel cylinders. Watch out for crummy repro wheel cylinders, esp the rears. Go for genuine Lockheed when you can. Might as well not scrimp on brake parts, you don't have a dual / redundant system. And keep the e-brake adjusted. Total brake failure really makes you feel alive. Ask me how I know.

7) Join the local T-series club. You'll meet some really wonderful people.

Good luck.

JM Williamson

Don, I have a 53 that sat for 10+ years. The fex lines to front breaks were cloged solid. All wheel cylinders froze. You said no rust but can you tell if there was ever any previous resto work done. I found old repairs when I started on body work that looked good on surface but needed totally redone. I asume you know about wood frame under sheet metal. As for cost I don't hunt, fish or golf so when you look at that way its not that expensive. Also check out scarborough faire for another parts source. Also Little British Car Co. They use moss parts but are sometimes cheaper. Definetly take lots of pictures and start a notebook to jot down things as you take things apart. I have a box of misc parts that I cant remeber where they go. Good luckRon
C Tarr

Denver has a pretty good MG group. I don't belong yet as I haven't talked the guy into parting with his TD that was parked in 1975. Talked with several members at the last British Conclave and was able to glean some very good information. Seem to be very willing to discuss and answer any questions. Here is their link:
http://www.mgcc.org/rmc.htm

Tom in Arvada
TJ Vessely

Hi all,
Thanks for the advice! The advice to get it in safe driving condition sounds good. I have looked all over this car, no rust, patch jobs. Even the wood still is hard. So.. A little paint, new rubber (everywhere) and a engine & trans. rebuild, new tires and she is back on the road. Another car out of a coma!
My folks are moving from Florida, my Dad always wanted a T, I'll give it to him for his birthday. Some day when I get it back I'll do the frame up on it.
This is my 5th MG. My 2nd to do a resto on. I also own a mga twin cam (right hand drive).
D.M. Black

This thread was discussed between 31/10/2005 and 02/11/2005

MG TD TF 1500 index

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