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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Oil Filter

Anyone have a brand/number for an oil filter element that can be had locally? NAPA, Advance Auto etc? PJ

MY filter type.




P S Jennings

Any filter from those places that ends in "1300" will do. For example, NAPA Gold 1300.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

I believe those are only available from Moss/Ab Spares,,, IMHO, your best bet would be to change to an adapter which uses a modern spin on filter,,,it's good life insurance for your engine....
Steve Wincze

Dave was typing at the same time I was,,, I didn't realize that they were available locally,,, BUT,,, the spin on's are easier to deal with,,,,

SPW
Steve Wincze

Steve is right, but I like the look of the old filter and it takes only about 5 more minutes to fool with, once a year or so (I go 6,000 miles on an oil change but I can get into that some other time as my theory may be hard for some to swallow.)

The 1300 will come with three gaskets. Use the thinnest one and make sure the old gasket is withdrawn from the groove. Easiest to do with the engine out, but a mirror will aid the inspection with the car in one piece. Make sure that tne new gasket goes in perfectly. For this reason, many change the thinnest gasket only once every few years.

Check the effectiveness of the filter-cannister combination by making sure you can compress the filter element against the spring at the bottom of the filter canister (the permanent piece). It should compress about an 1/4 inch as the filter element face hits the boss on the oil pump and the filter canister goes into the groove. Smear oil on both filter elemnet faces, so tightening does not tear the paper gaskets built into the filter element. There are three sealing points, the flange against the spring in the bottom of the cannister, the flange on the oil pump face, and the groove where the gasket resides and seals against the cannister.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

...agree with Dave ... once you get the new little rubber ring in there...leave it, its good for almost life.....
...and I change my filter every other oil change (6000 miles) so that is about every other year..... (thats what they did in the 60's)
gblawson(gordon- TD27667)

I know that the screw on filter is much faster and less messy, but I like to keep things as original as possible and knowing the fact that this car will be driven very little, the messy oil change isn't an issue with me. Incidentally, what color was the canister originally? One guy said black. Is that right? PJ
P S Jennings

Main reason I changed to the spin on was for superior filtration and the inclusion of the anti-drain back valve which the stocker does not have. Gets oil where it needs to be faster on startup.

Just a much better alternative for prolonging engine life. That's is my prime concern.
l rutt

Dave, Who says that one can't teach an old dog new tricks?! Every couple of months I learn something new from you! I never dreamed that I could get filter elements from NAPA! I haven't changed the seal in about 10 years. It never leaked, so I didn't mess with it.
Steven Tobias

P172, AC AC32, Fram CH814PL, NAPA 1300 or the equivalent in any other brand. These filters are also used in the MGA and the early MGBs through around 67. The filters come with 2 or 3 gaskets. You want to use the gasket that measures closest to 0.088" thick. As Dave B. states, make sure that the old gasket is completely out of the grove (a good light, mirror and dental picks are helpful) and that the new gasket is well seated in the grove before putting things back together. I have taken a different approach. Since the gasket that was in the grove when I purchased the car was rock hard, but didn't leak, I didn't change it until I restored the car some 8 years later (after my wife had driven the car as her everyday transportation during that period). The first gasket I installed was the wrong width and I wound up dumping all the oil and hammering a couple of rod bearings. After that I stuck the correct gasket in place and just monitor it for any leakage - I haven't changed it in 10 or 12 years. Cheers - Dave


David DuBois

To the best of my knowledge, the oil canister should be engine color.

I agree that a spin-in is a superior filtering device and far easier to use, but the original does an ok job.
Steve S

The horizontal filter canister can be either of two colors, depending upon the maker. Those made by Tecalemit are a bronze color. Those made by Purolator are a green color. I'd suggest having a look at
http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgtd/mgtd_finishes.htm . Bud
Bud Krueger (TD10855)

"once you get the new little rubber ring in there...leave it, its good for almost life....."
.
.
.I did have one instance where the original filter housing worked it's way through the "little rubber ring" and caused a massive leak of internal fluids! When I took the "rubber" ring out, it was relativly hard and brittle, even though I changed both the filter and rubber ring every year or 3,000 miles.

SPW
Steve Wincze

Interesting, the one that had been in mine for 26 years was still pliable, if I hadn't cut it out, I could have reused it!
gblawson(gordon- TD27667)

I found a filter at my "in the middle of nowhere" NAPA store this summer.
By the way, how can I tell if I have a Tecalamit or a Purolator filter setup?
My filter is painted black and has a painted-over oval medalion on the side. Small, like 1 inch x 1/3 inch. Anyone know?

Tom
'54 TF
Tom Norby

Tom, unless I'm reading it wrong, the Tecalemit canister had an identifying plate on it and the other one had a decal. Mine had a small plate on the side, so I guess it's a Tecalemit filter and it should be painted Bronze? Not sure. ????? PJ
P S Jennings

Oh yeah, My NAPA store doesn't carry the filters in stock, but can have them the next morning. I ordered two NAPA Gold 1300s, pick them up this morning. PJ
P S Jennings

Gordon,
IMHO, I'm thinking that the one that you had that was 26 years old is probably made of much better material than the one that failed on my filter that was a lot newer??

SPW
Steve Wincze

...could very well be... I know I have used the same one that I replaced it with over 6 oil changes so far.... no leaks at all from the filter
gblawson(gordon- TD27667)

I have a Purolator. Even though the T Series Moss catalog doesn't reference the internal parts, I was able to rebuild mine with parts selected from the MGB catalog. I painted it engine red, although I swear everytime I change the oil I'm going to get some light green metalic hammered paint and go at it...

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

Just read an article from Moss stating that the torque on the oil canister fixing bolt should not be over 15 ft. lbs! Splitting of the rubber seals could result if over torqued beyond that. PJ
P S Jennings

PJ, you are correct. My oil filter canister is a Tecalamit. Those have a small plate riveted on the side. Purolator do not. I researched it on the MGT site. Mine is missing the spring that sits over the bolt above the filter. Want to pick up the correct one from Abingdon.

Tom
'54 TF
Tom Norby

The filter can may well have been painted bronze at the Telcamite factory, but unless I'm mistaken the cans were installed to the engine before the engine was painted, so the bronze would have been covered up by engine paint.
Steve Simmons

Is there a decal or some method to restore the original look of the identification plate on the side of the Telcamite filter? PJ
P S Jennings

This thread was discussed between 12/10/2010 and 14/10/2010

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