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MG TD TF 1500 - oil leak

Last summer my '52 TD leaked what was judged to be the usual and acceptable amount of oil. Since opening it up for this season it is leaking what I judge (with no experience)to be an unacceptable amount. From above I can't tell from where it is coming but have eliminated the new oil filter. Based on the recommendation of the EPO (esteemed previous owner) I use Castrol 5W50. I would value ANY suggestions as to some simple checks I might make prior to taking it to a mechanic (which I am not). If this enquiry gives you amusement and a snicker as to my lack of basic TD knowledge, they are fully justified!
THANKS.

Dick Thomas
TD13583


Dick Thomas

I do not know how many miles are on your engine, but IF it is a high mileage engine I would not be running 5W oil. It will simply leak slowly from all the seals. 20W-50 is pretty standard for high mileage engines. Other than that, I'm sure you'll get a myriad of suggestions on where to check for leaks.

Cheers

Larry
Larry Karpman

That is an awfully pretty TD...

Start at the top and work your way down... Any oil coming from around the valve cover gasket ... and again, if you just started it, everything is pretty dry and may swell up a bit with use?

I seem to always have a bit of oil on my bell housing ... the part you can just see between the back of the engine and the firewall...

Front seal below the bottom engine fan pulley?

Little hole in the bottom of the bell housing with the cotter pin sticking through?

Rear of the transmission?

Rear differential?
gblawson (gordon)- TD#27667

Pretty car! How big a spot does it leave when you shut it off? Or does it drip while running? Gordon's questions helpful, and I agree with 20-50 for the oil. If you can give more info, we will have advice. Keep in mind if a TD is not leaking, there is no longer any oil! George
George Butz

Dick,

Just be advised that you need an oil that still contains an ample amount of ZDDP, which has been phased out of most oil because it can affect catalytic converters.

Valvoline VR-1 Racing oil 20W50 is for 'off road' use, but is perfectly acceptable in our flat tappet, non-catalytic converter engines. Your cam shaft and tappets will thank you.

Warmly,
dave



Dave Braun

Gentlemen,
My thanks. You have made me realize that I need to organizie my observations more professionally. Very difficult for a 79 year old grey headed man with glasses. I recognize that a dripping TD is a real TD but don't have the experience to know how much is too much. The amount collecting in the drip pan is greater than it was last Fall and there seems to be drips in the drive going into the garage---but I'm not sure that is all lubricant so I'm watching the coolant.
The engine has about 2000 miles since being rebuild by the EPO and he choose 5w50. Your comments are VERY helpful. Please keep them coming while I try to get a better understanding myself of what's happening.

With warm personal regards,

Dick Thomas
TD13583
Dick Thomas

Dick, another opinion on ZDDP...dave b. your opinion, as always, is valued, but as you know from the postings here, i repectfully disagree about the ZDDP. i think there is a good chance that i may be the ONLY member on this board who went back into their fresh over haul after 3000 miles on standard oil to inspect. i found NO measurable wear. i also found it interesting that the tappets i pulled from my high mileage engine before overhaul ..the engine run only on the old, higher level ZDDP were fretted. regards, tom peterson
tom peterson

Gordan's thinking is what I would go with. Start with the easy things. Valve cover, tappet cover. If your car has the early oil pump (one with separate oil filter, get new copper washers and assure they are tight and not leaking. Do the same for the banjo fitting on the engine.

If that does not do it, dropping the pan would be the next step. That would allow you to check the front seal and replace the rope seal with a new one or go for the new type front seal.

While I agree with comments that a TD will have some oil leakage, my 1950 has had just a small amount coming out of the bottom of the flywheel hole (the one with the cotter pin). A slight drip on the floor is all I see.

I also do not have the rear seal kit on my engine. I am very meticulous on cleaning gasket surfaces and assuring the gasket is under the cork seal in the rear.
Bruce-C

Dick, if you are looking for an oil leak, it may be worthwhile to first spray the engine with degreaser and hose off all over. That way any new dribbles should be more conspicuous. Regards, Richard
R Payne

Good Morning Dick
I recently switched from Castrol 10W30 to Valvoline VR-1- 20w50 racing oil. The old line of thinking was that if your puddle of oil was two teaspoons or less that this was ok and normal. If it is much more than this, then think of changing to the higher 20w50, which should leak less. And just to be on the safe side of the ZDDP discussion, Valvoline lists it on the label, make sure to get the gray bottle. Also the first thing I check for an oil leak is the valve cover gasket and tappet cover. If it is your valve cover gasket and you need to replace it, follow the workshop manual directions and only glue/seal it to the engine cast iron head. You need to remove the oil film from the head before gluing/ sealing it to the head, I use a cloth shop towel and oil based paint thinner. This will let you remove the valve cover without replacing the gasket. It also give you another ¼ to 3/8 inch reservoir for the oil to pool into before it can run down the out side of the engine. My cork one has been on since its rebuild in 1995 and removed numerous times to set valves, check oil flow, etc. Next the tappet cover, if it is leaking a little, try snuging up the two bolts. If you remove the tappet cover, check the cork gasket to see if it has two round holes located in the upper half, these are for crankcase ventilation. Next the oil lines to the engine, filter and pump. Snug these up using two wrenches where possible. The last things to check are the oil pan and the timing chain cover , be careful here and only snug them up a little each. Hope this helps, John
John

I found a new mechanic, a while back who knew these cars and he instinctively goes around tightening things up that tend to loosen, when I take it in for a service.

I noticed that he tightened up the bolts holding the oil filter housing to the block. This stopped the majority of my oil leaking, until it had loosened up again, before the next oil change.

I haven't heard anyone mention this before, but my mechanic seemed to know that this was a common source of leaking.

Wish I knew of a way to keep the bolts tight.

Larry
Larry Ayres

if that is your problem wouldn't loc-tite work??? regards, tom
tom peterson

Hi Tom P.,

(Dick, sorry to hijack your thread) The fretting on your tappets, was that in an 'hour glass' shape? If so, it is likely from the tappets not rotating properly as the engine runs. On my rebuild I slightly crowned the flat tappets to help them rotate. If the fretting is 'wormy' looking, that could be corrosion from acids in the oil, similar to that on the bearings. The cure for that type of problem is to change the oil at the end of the season, and then run the engine for a bit to circulate it before laying up the car for the winter. Also, was the 3000 mile engine run on the new oils with the absense of ZDDP? I'm sure you mean it was, but I'm just verifying. I'm always happy to learn something new, and revise my thinking! Thanks in advance for your answer.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

Dave,
All of my threads are completely highjackable! Please feel free to do as you will.
The engine was completely rebuilt in 1998 and had 2000 miles on it when I acquired it one year ago. It then had new oil (5w50). Last summer I added about 600 miles to a total tac of 66 600 miles. In the fall I changed oil and put it away after running it about 50 miles. The EPO (Esteemed Previous Owner) recommended Castrol Synthentic 5w50 and that is what I used and still use. The engine runs beautifully! No anything other that smooth sound and performance. When hot the INDICATED oil pressure is 55 psi at 3000 rpm and 15psi at idle.
Thats about all I can tell yoou. My objective was to have a listing of things to check to identify leaks. Thankfully, you have collectively given me just that.
I am MOST grateful.
With warm personal regards,

Dick Thomas
Dick Thomas

This thread was discussed between 26/04/2008 and 30/04/2008

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