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MG TD TF 1500 - Oil pipe needed

I have the early TD oil filter (vertically mounted, separate from the oil pump). I need the oil pipe that goes from the top of the filter to the oil pump. If you have one you would like to sell please contact me.

Tburchfi at gmail.com

Thanks

Tim
TD12524


TW Burchfield

Tim,
Do you have the banjo fittings ?? or do you need the whole thing ?
SPW
Steve Wincze

They can fracture, especially if the filter clamp is not tight. (Ask me how I know.) The usual suppliers should stock them. Plus, someone on this forum was selling braided flexible lines to replace the solid copper ones, a few years ago.
LD Palmer

Steve, I have the banjo fittings. The previous owner did away with the oil filter and bent the oil pipe to stretch form the block to the oil pump.

Tim
TW Burchfield

You can solder new copper tubing into the banjos

steve
Steve Wincze

Steve, I'll see how easily I can remove the banjos from the old pipe.

Tim
TW Burchfield

Tim, the forum's 'person who has most anything that you might need' is Hugh Pite, jenntoo@shaw.ca . Highly recommended, unquestioned integrity, IMHO. Bud
Bud Krueger

Thanks Bud. I'll contact him.

Tim
TW Burchfield

Hi Guys,

I replaced my cracked pipes with "Bundy" tubing. That is the stuff that is used (in a small size) in brake lines. I borrowed a pipe bender from the brake specialist who supplied the tubing.

Copper has a tendency to crack, although only after a lot of time, and that is why it is not used any more in brake applications. I am pretty sure that at least one of the ORIGINAL cracked pipes I replaced was made of plain steel. That could be because I play with TC stuff and perhaps early TC was steel? I guess any of these materials are ok for a very long time under normal conditions. However, if you are racing, I would suggest the Bundy tubing to resist the more violent high frequency vibration. Bundy tubing doesn't corrode because it is (zinc?) plated. Sorry, I can't remember the solder I used but I think it was high grade silver solder.

Good luck with the repairs.

Bob Schapel
R L Schapel

Hi Bob. You're correct about copper fracturing due to cold working over time. Bundy is plated but the plating doesn't address the issue of internal corrosion. This is the insidious problem with steel Bundy which can lead to some pretty spectacular failures, especially in our older cars that spend some time between outings or are laid up over winter. The best bet is Cunifer, a copper/nickel alloy used in many hydraulic applications including the brake lines in all of the very best modern cars. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Hi Peter,
I would have thought internal corrosion was not a problem in an oil pipe, particularly when Bundy is (almost?) OK with brake fluid. However, it looks like Cunifer is the ultimate. I had not heard of it. I learn something every day! Thanks.
Bob
R L Schapel

Tim, before removing the banjo's I suggest to make a wooden setup that fix the present distance and angle's of the two banjo's faces. A few pieces of wood and some nails will do.
This will be your pattern to re-assemble tube and banjo's. Good luck, huib
Huib Bruijstens

Of course you're right Bob. No corrosion with oil. If you Google Cunifer there is a fair bit of info on the Net. Just replaced all of my copper brake lines with Cunifer so they'll now outlive me. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Huib, the pipe I have was bent almost straight to run from the block to the oil pump. The PO had removed the oil filter (see attached image). So any correct orientation of the banjos is lost. I tried to melt the solder and remove the banjos but it looks they are brazed on to the pipe which appears to be steel. My MAP torch isn't up to the task. I was hoping that with so many conversions to the oil pump attached filter someone would have an old oil pipe lying around. Based on my inquires here and several sites in the US it seems that is not the case. Thanks for the suggestion.

Tim
TD12524


TW Burchfield

Hi Tim,

If the solder/braze won't melt, perhaps you could cut the pipe off and drill it out? Drilling might be a bit tricky because the brass banjos are angled. A bit of grinding before drilling should overcome this.

Yes, I thought some oil pipes were steel.

Good luck with finding a good used pipe. Keep asking around. Hopefully someone has one.

Bob Schapel
R L Schapel

Probably the fittings are silver soldered on. I think the melting point is around 900 deg. F.
Hugh Pite
H.D. Pite

Tim,
Are you looking for the other pipe also? I.e. the one which runs from filter to block (or another pair of banjos to make up the second pipe). You might also need two more banjo bolts?
Bob Schapel
R L Schapel

Hi

I have to ask, why was the oil filter removed?

Barry
B Bridgens

Bob Schapel
Great minds think alike :-) But it's a lot of work with out guaranteed results. I've had a few positive responses. I only need the pipe from the filter to the pump and I have the banjo bolts already.

H.D. Pite
I agree. Probably need an Oxy/Acy torch to do the job. But I don't have one.

Barry
I have no idea why the filter was removed. The filter canister and the pipe from the filter to the block were included in the boxes when I bought the car. Perhaps filter cartridges were hard to come by when the bypass was done. Incidentally, the bearings, cam and piston rings looked new when I disassembled the engine. I doubt the car ran very long without the filter. Someone spent a lot of time and effort unbending the oil pipe to stretch from the block to the pump. The pipe is extremely hard to bend. See my original post for a picture of the bypass set up.

Tim
TD12524



TW Burchfield

I have an engine out of a TC racer where that was done, perhaps to save weight and also because there was limited engine time between oil changes.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Tim, I have one, here's a pic. Email me if you're still interested.


Geoffrey M Baker

OK, got my oil pipe. Thanks everyone.

Tim
TW Burchfield

This thread was discussed between 13/07/2015 and 15/07/2015

MG TD TF 1500 index

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