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MG TD TF 1500 - Oil to Break In New TF Engine?

I have a completely rebuilt engine on my TF, now being restored. I have not started it yet - finishing up - With all the oil issues I see on this site, does anyone have any thoughts on what oil to break in and then to use permanently. Synthetic? I have the new seal fix on the engine.Thanks,
Keith
Keith Murphy

First, Keith, make sure your cam lobes, and the bottoms of the cam followers (Tappets in Yank-talk) are coated with MoS² paste or grease. Graphite is not the same stuff. Despite all the talk about ZDDP, or lack thereof, the MoS² is used for break-in only, and will be flushed with the break-in oil upon change.

If the engine is all zipped-up, unfortunately on a TF, its quite difficult to get the cam chest cover off, but it must still be done.

The first few moments of starting a new or a 'dry' engine are critical. There is no immediate flow of oil to these High Pressure critical spots where metal-to-metal surface pressures are quite high. So the MoS²is used to do the job.

Just remember that ZDDT oils are still around. so the addition of MoS² is critical. Is easily available at most auto Parts suply house.



Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.

Gordon A. Clark

Keith... check the archives for priming the oil pump. There are a few ways to do it.
And post a photo with your car!
gblawson - TD#27667

Here are a few comments from the past:

David DuBois
Bremerton
WA

Posted 11 April 2000 at 17:41:53 UK time
Castrol GTX 20-50 is fine for an everyday oil, but DO NOT use it for break in!!! If you do, in all likehood, your rings will never seat - the stuf is too slipery. I am saying this ffrom personal experience. the oil to use for brake in is a good 30W non-detergent oil. This will allow the rings to seat properly. Run the car for about 500 miles with the original oil in it. During the initial break in run, occasionally accelerate hard to pring the cylinder pressure up, pushing the rings against the cylinder walls - this will help getting the rings seated. Drain and refill with more 30W and drive it another 1000 2000 miles or untill the oil compsumption stabalizes. Drain this oil and refill with the Castrol GTX 20 - 50. I agree with Colin, the synthetic oil will most likely all wind up on the ground through the front and rear oil seals. Good luck - Dave

Bud Krueger
If nothing else, don't fire it up until you know that there is oil pressure. Assuming that you've primed the oil pump, etc., crank the engine over with the plugs removed until you see a reading on the gauge.
After that you can start the breakin routine that you like the best.
Did you replace the camshaft and followers? Did the supplier of the camshaft suggest a bedding-in routine? Typically, this is to immediately run the engine up to about 1800-2000 rpm and hold it there for about twenty minutes.
Other than that, don't use synthetic oil for at least the first 3,000 miles so that the rings can better contact the cylinder walls. Neither lug, nor overrev the engine for the first 500 miles while varying the engine speed. After 500 miles, change the engine oil and filter, retorque the head and check the rocker arm gaps.
Bud


When I rebuilt my TF 1500 (XPEG Engine)I was very diligent about making sure that oil was in all the passages, and oil pressure was at a respectable level (75 -80 PSI)on the gauge before starting the engine... I used a small electric drill mounted pump, the kind used to drain and add water to aquariums... I disconnected the oil line (item # 144 - Moss Catalog - External Engine Section)and connected some 1/4" plastic tubing from the outlet of this pump to the oil line that goes to the block... Another length of plastic tubing went from the suction side of the "drill pump" and into a can of SAE 30 Engine Oil... Since it is esentially a "new" engine, I chose to use the original recommended oil, as was used when these cars were new... With the valve cover off I pumped oil into the block until I had oil running off the rocker assembly... After taking this rig off the car, I reconnected the oil line to the fitting and oil pipe to the gauge... I then connected my plastic tubing to the oil passage way port near the car's oil pump and continued running my "drill pump" to ensure that the oil filter housing was purged of air and filled with oil... After adding the remaining engine oil, in the usual manner, through the valve cover opening... I then pulled the started, with the key in the OFF position... Within 3 seconds I had 80 PSI on the oil gauge...

The engine was then started, following te recommendations of Crane Cams as to the run-in procedure... The engine was immediately brought up to 2000 RPM and was varied between 2000 and 2500 RPM for 30 minutes... There is nothing quite like the pleasure you get to hear the car cme back to life after a complete rebuild... After that initial 30 minutes of run-in, I drained the oil and changed the filter... The "assembly lube" that was smeared all over the cam, and all the bearings, discolors the engine oil and I'm not convinced that it doesn't clog some of the flow capabilty of the oil filter element... Anyway, if there is anything in there, as far as particle contamination from the rebuild, I wanted to get it out... After draining the oil, and replacing the filter, I added new SAE 30 oil and took her for a drive... Next oil change in 500 mile, and then I prefer to change it every 2000 miles... Good Luck !!!
Rod Macleod

Jim Merz
Missouri
USA

Posted 18 March 2005 at 14:14:34 UK time
A friend of mine who owns a Brit Car Repair Shop recommends running-in a rebuilt engine at 2,000 RPM for 20 to 30 minutes. I believe he normally uses 10 W 30 oil which is changed along with the filter at 500 miles.

Steve Tobias
Commack NY USA

Posted 14 April 2000 at 01:41:53 UK time
There isn't much lip service given to break-in these days because contemperary car makers don't feel that their products need to treated differently when new. The universally accepted practice in aircraft piston engines, however, dictates the first 25 or 50 hours are to be run with straight, single grade mineral oil. I have never seen any reason not to carry this over into our valuable little xpags' break-in!
gblawson - TD#27667

See the thread "New Oils Bad for Our Cars".

Many of our traditional oils are no longer suitable for break in!

It is essential that the correct cam lube be used and initial oils with enough Zinc (ZDDP) for break in.

I have used Shell Rotella T (10W-40) as recomended by some cam builders and Engine rebuilders
Don Harmer

Thanks to all who spent time on getting me the information - can't believe what a helpful group there is on this bulletin board! From the BBS I've been exposed to, this is the "poster boy" for how they should operate!

Keith
Keith Murphy

This thread was discussed between 21/10/2006 and 22/10/2006

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