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MG TD TF 1500 - Package shelf over rear differential

Is the package shelf (the wood panel over the differential) one piece? Was it designed to allow access to the rear differential from above? I thought I saw a drawing of a segmented shelf somewhere but I can't find it now. Moss seems to show three panels but photos I've seen via Google show a solid panel. Mine is/are missing.

Tim
TD 12524
TW Burchfield

Originally they were in three segments. Yes the center was removable to access the final drive for checking the oil. Seeing how my car is not a concurs restoration, but close, I opted to make mine in one piece, varnished it and covered it with felt. If you have no leaks, you'll only check the oil once a year at the most! I cut in a small access cover in the right front corner in case I need to work on the fuel pump, not much room, but better than crawling underneath. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Paul,

I believe he has a TD, might be different from a TF.

Jim
James Neel

Paul addressed that correctly, the TD has a three piece covering, with the center section being removable for access to the differential. Cheers - Dave
D.W. DuBois

Thanks very much. Anyone know where I can get the dimensions of the three panels? I know I could just measure and divide by 3 but I'd like to know the original sizes if possible.

Tim
TD 12524
TW Burchfield

As I remember it is not three equal pieces. Mine in still in storage so cannot get any measurements. there are two metal straps one on each side of the differential that the wood pieces screw onto. I made my own pieces out of plywood and painted the on both sides to water proof them.
TRM Maine

TRM, was there any kind of seal between the three pieces and or the bottom of the panels and the framework?
TW Burchfield

I am sorry I don't have a better picture for you or measurements of how wide the center piece is. Car is all sealed up in it's bubble.

If you don't care for exact measurements you can get pretty close by looking at the picture and noticing the placement of the machine screws. The left panel is wider than the right. You can just make out the location of the seam by finding the two woodscrews outboard of the machine screws on the bottom.

The center panel is held in place by 4 machine screws and captive nuts that are contained on two side strips of wood that are secured on the bottom of the side panels. You can make out the woodscrews just next to the two cad machine screws on the bottom of the picture.

Note the front of the panels are cut on a bevel that matches the slope of the sheet metal below and behind the seats.


Christopher Couper

If you are more interested in practicality, rather than originality,check out Daves neat storage space here
http://www.ttalk.info/Sheward.htm

Steve
SPW Wincze

Mine were missing completely Tim when a box of bits were tossed out years ago. (Not by me!) I measured the 3 pieces from a much later TD & made them up. They fitted like a glove however I did have to relocate one of the captive nuts on the side curtain box. Using Chris's info & the location of your captive nuts you shouldn't have any trouble knocking them up. My experience suggests the total width of the 3 panels hadn't changed over the course of production. The machine screws were slot heads. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

My TF has 3 sections of wood in the back, the center one held in with four screws for "inspection".
I believe TD's and TF's were very similar.

Tom
T Norby

Tim,
On My TD 1953 this is the Axel filler access through the floor at the rear of the seats.
I can get you the dimensions tomorrow.
I believe it is a little off set to the right hand side
The picture does not show the amount but I can get that in the morning.
Rod.



R. D. Jones

Here are a couple of sketches with dimensions Hope these help -- Number One


Lou Van Koningsveld

And Number Two - Lou VanK. (won't accept my pic - will try later)
Lou Van Koningsveld

Number Two - second try


Lou Van Koningsveld

As a new member of this group I am continually impressed with the knowledge and willingness to help by others here. Thanks everyone for the information. Lou the drawings are perfect for my needs.

Tim
TD 12524

PS Took the body off yesterday.


TW Burchfield

Years ago I made a set of saddlebags from plywood. They straddled the differential. I made a cover from a heavy duty piece of aluminium hinged at the front. Covered with carpet you could never tell from looking that anything was there.
I sprayed the external of those boxes with undercoat. This sealed them from outside moisture.
Sorry but due to one of our Florida storms I lost all photos.
Sandy
SANDY

From My TD

It shows how it is off set to one side.

Rod





R. D. Jones

Thanks Rod. Are all three panels the same length (two covered with material or is the center panel longer? If so why is it longer?
TW Burchfield

Lou: Nothing wrong with you. The forum only allows one picture per post.

BTW your drawings are excellent.
Christopher Couper

Tim
All the pieces are the same length and form the rear shelf. Mine has leather covering the rear panel that is behind the seats and the wheel arches, that's all. It makes them look shorter. Also drivers side is missing the box that fits over the seat pan tang :) Trying to get the seat further back so the wheel don't rub my Belly..... Next thank is the Tang comes off too. :)
Lou's second drawing above look very much the same as mine.

Rod


R. D. Jones

Tim,

I did not like the way the panels are attached with screws. Very hard to work with. Instead I used Velcro tape. I also installed a flush mounted "metal ring" handle from the hardware store on the panel that covers the differential access plug. I can now check the fluid level in minutes. The carpet covers the 3 panels with no adhesive and is easily lifted out to access the ring handle. I know, it's not "factory" but it is very practical.

Ed
efh Haskell

Tim,

My measurements differ just very slightly from Rod's diagram as follows. My car is a '53 TD (24953). I measure 36 3/8" total width of the three pieces side by side. Also, I measure 18" in length. Both of my measurements are 1/8" shorter than Rod's diagram. In addition, nobody has mentioned that the front edge of the pieces are beveled slightly toward the cockpit in line with the seat back incline. I am happy to take more measurements if you require them.


Kirk Trigg

My TD had a saddle piece of metal under the center piece about 1/2" wide. I'm not sure what the benefit of it was but I cleaned it up and reinstalled it.
Mike
Mike Hart

Tim
The bottom line here is every TD was possibly a little different - as they were hand made.
Taking into account the padding and covering of the wheel arches will make the width measure difficult to determine - As it is all fitted now.
I made new floorboards when I rebuilt mine and following the originals, cut the wood to fit the space. The center panel needs to be biased to the left side for the axel fill point.
Like Kirk says the front lip needs to matches the line of the rear step piece behind the seats. Slight chamfer.
Two pieces of wood form the lip the center piece sits on. You can see the screws that mount them underneath in the picture. They have 2 each captured nuts to hold down the center panel. Picture shows that also.
In the end it is all covered with carpet so an 1/8" or two either way will not be discernible. :)

Good luck

Rod
R. D. Jones

I made mine using the later panels as a template before they went back into the car they belonged to & they were the same width or as near as dammit. The only difference was the position of the captive nuts on the side screen box, so it's important to use these to determine (& tweak if necessary), the finished sizes of your three panels. BTW Kirk the ever reliable Chris Couper did mention the incline or chamfer at the front of the panels. I also thought that originally there was no carpet behind the seats? Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Peter,

I stand corrected. As we've all come to expect, Chris was on the mark yet again. Apologies to you Chris and thanks once again for your excellent web site.

Kirk
Kirk Trigg

Many of the answers from the website come from here :-)
Christopher Couper

Hi all

As I was not happy with my attempt at rebuilding my rear / behind seat cross brace, I bought a new one from Kilmartin in Victoria (Aust) and I am now fixing the timber frame to get a good fit all around.

Kilmartin's brace has a few problems (floor & self sections were not bent correctly 100° in lieu of 110° and sections behind door pillar only went as high as could be fitted behind the pillar timber) but these are fixed and can be lived with.

As I have to buy a full 4' x 8' (1200 x 2400) sheet of 3/8" (9mm) marine ply so I can make a rear (behind tank)(13 1/4" x 36") timber piece and rear parcel shelf, I want to ensure the ply is cut to the correct size.

I am curious why there is a difference in the rear parcel shelf width between those shown on Lous' diagram above (and with which others agree) of between 36 1/8" and 36 3/8" and the width across the rear of the sub frame which is 36" (ie 34" between rear bolt holes plus additional 1" on either side).

I know it isn't much.
Stuart
Stuart Duncan 1953 TD

Dunno Stuart. The vagaries of a hand made car I guess. If you use a template made with a sheet of cardboard from something like an appliance packing carton to ascertain the size of your opening & then use the position of the side curtain box captive nuts, along with both Lou's drawing & Kirk's dimensions, marked out on your cardboard template, you won't go too far wrong. The only panel that needs to be removed for access is the centre one. You'll be OK as I don't think even the originality police are allowed to use a tape measure, just as long as it looks right, as I'm sure it will. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

I always liked this idea of Daves. I just might incorporate it in mine. PJ


Paul S Jennings

This thread was discussed between 23/05/2015 and 26/05/2015

MG TD TF 1500 index

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