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MG TD TF 1500 - Pedal Box

I was confused when reviewing some comments concerning the difficulty of working on the pedal assembly, as related to the pedal box. I have had no trouble working on my pedal assembly. It slowly dawned on me that this was apparently because I have no pedal box!

Would someone please post a picture/sketch/diagram to assist me in fabricating/installing a replacement. Is there any function provided by the box other than weather proofing the pedal assembly (e.g., clutch/brake travel limiter)?


Corey Pedersen

Besides the stop it provides a point for the brake pedal return spring. It really doesn't do much for weather proofing.
L E D LaVerne

Corey-
I sent you some photos by email. Hope they help.
Roy
Roy Challberg

Great access!! I was ready to cut mine off at one point... George
George Butz

Gents thanks for the assistance. Roy, I received the images - very thorough!

I suspect that I can emulate the necessary stops and spring anchors by affixing strategically placed bolts to the frame. I'll post some info when I get to that stage of the restoration.
Corey Pedersen

Can anyone suggest a source for a replacement pedal box? Using a box salvaged from a scrapped frame would probable be easier than try to fabricate a suitable alternative.
Thanks.
Corey Pedersen

Corey, here's a picture of mine if it helps. PJ




Paul sr

Corey, someone has one on eBay right now. Bud
Bud Krueger

Corey-
Brown and Gammons shows one in their catalog. Unfortunately they only have the RHD and the LHD is no longer available. With that said you might try Abingdon Spares or even Moss (by phone) to see if they have one.
Roy
Roy Challberg

Hello Corey. Under the assumption that you will be fabricating a replacement pedal box, may I recommend that the design features quick and easy installation/removal of the box when servicing of the pedal assembly is necessary. I intend to equip my T.F. with this feature at a later date. John
J .R.C Cavey

Bud, the boxes I found on eBay are not for the TD. If you found one that is, please send me the link.

Is there a source of used TD parts? The pedal box would have to be cut off of a frame.

John, if I am successful in sourcing a box, I would weld mounting brackets to it and bolt it to the frame.
Corey Pedersen

I will be amazed if you find a separate box, already made....
With the outline on your frame, and someone to give you outside dimensions, , I would think that you could make a cardboard mockup, and have a sheet-metal shop make you a replacement....
My car is not on the lift right now, or I could give you the measurements....Surely someone out there has one with the floor off, for this info.
Anyway, here's what it looks like.
Edward


E.B. Wesson

Paul (& Corey) The bottom right hand corner, where Paul welded in a captive nut, did not have a nut in the original TD arrangement, as I understand from archives and parts list. It was a stud, taking a nut -- unlike the other three corners of the access cover which took machine screws (bolts). (see Edward Wesson's photo above.) When I recently repaired my set-up I found I could not add a fixed nut in the bottom right, as it would interfere with the clutch cable. The stud was long gone and the hole was worn too big for the kind of 1/4" BSF machine screws used at the other 3 corners. In the end I rethreaded the hole for 5/16" BSF and cut a screw so that it does not protrude inside the box more than a shade. I know that attachment can't be tightened as much as the others -- but with a lock washer it seems to be willing to stay in place. As others on the board pointed out to me the access cover originally took a cork gasket... easy to make up from a cork sheet.
If you have a clutch rod rather than clutch cable then maybe you won't have the interference issue & can add a fixed nut as Paul did. If you do make up a box it might be an idea to add the extra access hole on the bottom of the box that seems to have been done on later models -- maybe plugging it with a rubber fitting. It's a real bear getting anything out of the pedal box when it is in place! While searching for a dropped bolt I found an unused 3/8 " nut dropped by the P.O. I suppose...
Good luck with this. Peter
Peter Pope

Paul (& Corey) The bottom right hand corner, where Paul welded in a captive nut, did not have a nut in the original TD arrangement, as I understand from archives and parts list. It was a stud, taking a nut -- unlike the other three corners of the access cover which took machine screws (bolts). When I recently repaired my set-up I found I could not add a fixed nut in the bottom right, as it would interfere with the clutch cable. The stud was long gone and the hole was worn too big for the kind of 1/4" BSF machine screws used at the other 3 corners. In the end I rethreaded the hole for 5/16" BSF and cut a screw so that it does not protrude inside the box more than a shade. I know that attachment can't be tightened as much as the others -- but with a lock washer it seems to be willing to stay in place. As others on the board pointed out to me the access cover originally took a cork gasket... easy to make up from a cork sheet.
If you have a clutch rod rather than clutch cable then maybe you won't have the interference issue & can add a fixed nut as Paul did. If you do make up a box it might be an idea to add the extra access hole on the bottom of the box that seems to have been done on later models -- maybe plugging it with a rubber fitting. It's a real bear getting anything out of the pedal box when it is in place! While searching for a dropped bolt I found an unused 3/8 " nut dropped by the P.O. I suppose...
Good luck with this. Peter
Peter Pope

Having studied the various images, I think I can emulate the pedal box functions by bolting a angle plates to the frame at two locations:

The green line - location of pedal arm rearward travel stop.

The red lne - location of the brake return return spring.

Comments?




Corey Pedersen

Corey:

170917762786
Item number:
Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing.
RARE 1950-54 MGTD-TF BRAKE/CLUTCH PEDAL BOX.

They cut the frame ahead of, and behind the pedal box.
Bud
Bud Krueger

Thx Bud. If it were a lot cheaper I might be tempted to play with it. I'm going to try to implement my design.

Still waiting for comments.
Corey Pedersen

Corey,
I am no pro at this but it seems to me that a box is necessary to keep the grime to a minimum. Look at all the essential moving parts that are there in such a small place.
I know there are difficulties working around this design, but complain as we do we all get past it and it does the job. I even put a small bellows to protect the hole where my clutch rod comes thru the front.
The bushing thru the main pivot of the clutch and brake pedal is subject to a lot of wear if it gets grimy. You have a shaft moving inside your MC. You have a pivot point from brake pedal to MC shaft. Etc.

I agree a hole in the bottom would be good for drainage of the occasional blast with a de-greaser spray. As long as it is plugged up during use.
Mort
Mort (50 TD "Mobius")

Mort, I agree. I plan to fabricate a removable cover to keep the mechanism clean.

Still looking for comments re: my design concept.
Corey Pedersen

Corey. If you don't use your car offroad, and you use a rod for your conectionto the clutch
you can do without the box.
In this modern times with clean roads you only ned some greas on the shaft and a shiel
in front of the pedals. A place to hook up the returnspring on the breakepedal.
Thoralf. NORWAY TD 4490.
Thoralf Sorensen (TD4490)

cORY,
I don't see any reason that your idea would not work. Assuming that your mounting holes for the master cylinder are usable in your frame.
As long as you have good access I would think that you should replace the bushing in the frame.
Without the box, it wouldn't take much maintainace to keep the area clean... the box just alows and area for more stuff to accumulate.

SPW
STEVE WINCZE

Corey,

Don't forget to install new shaft bushings, and may I strongly suggest that you perform the "cross-hatch" pattern to the pedal shaft. Using a small triangular file, be sure that the cross goes across the lubricating hole. I don't have a pic of this important mod, but perhaps someone out there will, and will post it.

I did this mod in 1972 and there has been absolutely no noticable wiggle on the shaft. Some people add a second nipple and the end of the shaft (I didn't). Its outlasted an engine rebuild since then, as I put on lots of miles/yr. Also, I used MOS² as my lubricant of choice.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gordon Clark

I'm replacing the pedal bushing and pedal shaft. Both are worn. The frame bushings are OK as-is. I have seen the information regarding the pedal shaft lube flow modification. Seems like a good idea.

I need to determine the rest position for the pedals in order to locate the rear stop bracket. Can someone provide a clear side picture (perhaps with a square laid alongside) to enable me to determine the at-rest angle of the pedal arms?
Corey Pedersen

Corey
Mechanically, your idea will work o.k....
In the real world, the box helps keep water out of the driver's foot box....The rubber "fume excluder", will keep some out, but driving through a deep puddle, could force water past the pedal arms, and into the compartment. (especially, if the excluder gets torn, which they frequently do)....
A simple box can be made from angle iron, and sheet....
If you have a welder, it would really be easy, but it could be riveted or bolted together, if you do not.
Using 1" angle iron , just make a top and bottom...
Four corners of the same angle...Cover with 1/8" T-6061 aluminum sheet, riveted or screwed to the angle....Holes, cut where you need them....Cross piece of 1" flat on top.
The angle will give you a screw location for the floor boards (turned edge out). Make the side and bottom removable (with sheet-metal screws)....
Pretty simple...and cheap.
Let us know what you finally come up with.
Edward
E.B. Wesson

Corey,
See Ed Wesson's image above.
Don't forget to include a clutch pedal stop. It will save a lot of wear and tear on your clutch assembly if you don't depress the clutch pedal more than necessary.
There are many designs for a stop that is adjustable.
Mort
Mort (50 TD "Mobius")

This thread was discussed between 11/01/2013 and 14/01/2013

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG TD TF 1500 BBS is active now.