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MG TD TF 1500 - Pedal Fume Excluder - position

Probably just another of my silly newbee questions, but I can't see an easy answer.

I've slid the rubber fume excluder over the pedal stalks and I'm ready to install the retainer plate for the new Moss rubber pedal fume excluder in my LHD TF. The rubber excluder stretches A LOT when the pedals are operated and looks like it could fail in short order.

> Where should the top of the excluder be positioned on the pedal stalks to cause the least amount of stretching?
> Should the base of the excluder and retainer be positioned close to the firewall so that the rubber will be stretched less when the pedals are operated? Or should I screw the retainer where the excluder naturally rests?
> Do these things actually last a reasonably long time?

I've positioned it high and positioned it low. And I've positioned it forward and positioned it normal. All of the positions seem to cause the rubber to stretch too much.

I believe that LaVerne did not secure his excluder to the floorboards for the reasons that I outlined. I prefer to attach it to the floorboard, but may be fruitless if it will fail in a few days or months.

Not looking forward to cramming myself under the steering column to predrill and screw the retainer to my new floorboards. Sure don't want to do it a second time if this one fails. (Yes, the steering wheel is off and the seats are out.)

Thanks for any advice that you can share.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Not me Lonnie...I secured mine. First one I put in tore right down the center after a couple of years. I finally replaced it a couple of years ago. when I put it in this time I coated the arms with silicone grease. I haven't peeked in there in a while to see if it has any holes in it or not. The new one I put in the now departed TD was torn in the middle as well with very low miles on it. I have the one that came with the TF still out in the shop. I don't believe it was original to the car, but it is still in one piece after Lord knows how many years. Rubber products just aint what they used ta be.
MG LaVerne

Lonnie,

My car had none (fume excluder) in 2002 when I got the car. I put in a Moss item then. Am working on the steering column now and notice the excluder is torn and failing. Very few miles so I am blaming the crappy Moss rubber. Yes, it was fastened to the floor board. Hope your experience is better.


Jim Haskins 1953 TD
J. M. Haskins

Thanks LaVerne and Jim for the depressing but logical news. I can't see how the rubber fume excluder can survive very long in normal driving. Guess that it will become a regular replacement item.

> Jim - will you be at the All British Car show in Winter Park next weekend, or (even more importantly) will you be at GOF-South the following weekend April 17-19? Not too late to register. Or come and look at the cars for free Saturday morning April 18.
http://www.gofsouth.com/

I'll probably finish installing my new carpets a couple of hours before the show!

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Get one from Abingdon Spares. The rubber is much thicker to the point they are hard to put on. They last a long time. George
George Butz

Thanks for the heads up on the above. I purchased a Moss item through my local supplier & have yet to fit it. I'll take it back & order one from AS. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

I took this pic (RHD TF) when I took my gearbox out last. Factory floor boards.

Matthew.


M Magilton

Matthew re the two holes at the front of the floor boards, were they originally captive nuts to secure the bottom of the foot rest? Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Hello,
The excluder of my TD also is torn.
Isn't it is an idea to make one from leather?
Erik
erik 51

Actually, why bother even putting one on ????

Steve
Steve Wincze

Peter from memory the captive nuts in that position are attached to the toeboard which goes under the floor board. No nuts attached to the wood apart from the seat anchors.

Erik, I am sure leather would work much better than the rubber currently available.

Steve, you must have a fumeless engine?

Matthew.
M Magilton

We need them here in Florida to keep the pedal box from filling with sand. George
George Butz

The new rubber item I fitted to my TF lasted only a very short time. Not only did it tear but the rubber virtually distintegrated. I have had the same thoughts as Erik and will attempt to make a black leather one.
Max Irvine

Thanks Matthew. My toeboard was a replacement made using the original as a template & I don't believe it has the captive nuts fitted, so I'll have to make up another four cages & nuts, plus the two for the rear guards. Sounds like the rubber boot that George got from Abingdon Spares is definitely the way to go. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Peter.
If the TD uses the same type of nuts on the toe board as the TF and TC do then they are not a caged nut but a swaged on nut. Doug Pelton sells these nuts ready for fitment but they are not cheap.
Max Irvine

My 55 has caged nuts on the toe board. Don't have a picture and too late to get one. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Max I have the correct BSF nuts for the seats which came from AS. They fit into the timber floor & also join the 3 piece rear floor. However I'm not sure what you mean by a swaged on nut? I understand swaging in construction & rigging but can't see how it applies here. I can see a nut attached to a spring clip working & also a captive/caged nut welded under the toeboard as Matthew & PJ suggest. I'll see if Doug has an illustration on the FTFU site. Thanks guys. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Max - are you referring to the "D" shaped nuts on the toe board? I don't see a weld, so I guess that they are press-fit or swaged. One of mine is missing. There is a clean hole where it was and no sign of welding.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Lonnie: I think they were swagged as you pointed out.
Christopher Couper

Lonnie,
Yes i was referring to the D shaped nuts. I bought some from Doug Pelton. They are the same on the TF and TC toe board an the drive shaft tunnel on a TC. There are a couple of other places they are used as well.

Peter, Swaging may not be quite the correct term. The nut is similar to a clinch nut. It has a machined lip which protrudes through a hole in the sheet metal, the lip is then flattened or turned over to hold the nut firmly in place.
Max Irvine

My car showing the D shaped nut and also one of the pinned nuts for the transmission cover.

Matthew.


M Magilton

Ahh! Thanks Matthew, a pic is worth a thousand words. Seems like a captive nut would function just as well. Had a look at the FTFU catalogue on the Net last night but couldn't find them. Do you have a part number or FTFU description Max? Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Peter,
They are listed as part of the front valance(for number plate attachment). Part number NTD 100. I will send Doug ante suggesting he include them as part of the toe board and driveshaft tunnel.
Max Irvine

Thanks mate. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

This thread was discussed between 04/04/2015 and 09/04/2015

MG TD TF 1500 index

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