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MG TD TF 1500 - Potpourri on my TD

I finally have usable brakes, not grate but usable.
I have put around 30 Miles on the clock. The first real millage since 1969.

I will list what I have done recently, and would ask for comments on what to check next, before I go for a longer trip. Say in the 50 mile, one way, range.

The brake issue was a combination of a leaky master cylinder, and OLD brake hoses.
The MC was new in 1984 but never used, although the brake system was filled wit DOT-5 then.

IN reviewing my PO from that time I find I purchased one hose from Moss. It was in the rear end. Apparently the ones on the front may have been original. (See pix.

I replaced all three with a new set from B&G, and installed a new MC from AS. Bled the system and I have some usable brakes. I think I need to adjust the peddle free play a bit yet.

I Took my wife to Lunch at the local dinner. (This is NJ every town has a dinner and thats where where "The elite meet to eat". (Do you remember that line?)
Then off to the Supermarket for some goodies, and to the gas station for some gas.

After that I re-torqued the head. Looks like it was sitting at 40 Ft-Lbs. I went back to 50.
I reset the valve lash. I have an Issue here. The cam was reground in 1984 by Berry cam. I have no idea what grind was used.
I set the lash at 0.015" about in the middle of 0.019 and 0.012"
Now upon starting I get some clatter but when warm if sounds OK.

Should I go to 0.012? or just leave it alone?

I went to a retirees Luncheon on Thursday. About 15 Miles.

Before, I checked the rear axle U-bolts. Very loose.
tight now and with proper check nuts.

I checked the drive shaft bolts. Nice and tight.
I put led bulbs in the stop light. (AS Positive Ground).

Upon return I checked the front end for looseness. Every thing OK. (Remember all the rubber dates from 1986 but never used.)

I note the drivers side door (LHD) is now scraping on the top pf the opening. I think I can drop it down with a shim behind the hinge.

Some oil leakage but not a lot. Running Brad Pitt brake-in oil.

The carbs were balanced on a flow meter and they seem to lean out correctly although plugs do look sooty.
I do have an issue with the seats not returning correctly after enrichment. (Teflon Seals)

I rebuilt the gear box a couple of years ago. Shifting seems good but the clutch seems to need a lot of throw to fully disengage.

The car has no temperature gauge, (yet) I have checked around with an IR gun. Highest temperature I find on the cooling system and head is around 180 F.

(OK the exhaust manifold is much hotter.)

Again before my next excursion, suggestions on what to check

Forgot PIX

Jim B
JA Benjamin


Old (original?) brake hose

Jim B


JA Benjamin

Jim,

The only real way to check your plugs is to find a safe place to make a reasonably fast run, then while still at speed turn off the ignition and coast to a stop. The condition of the plugs then should tell you if you're running too rich (sooty), too lean (burned) or just right (clean). You're probably in the right area right now but this will let you know for sure.

I'd leave the valves set as you have them.

Dot 5 (silicone brake fluid) does give a softer feel but with proper bleeding over time will feel reasonably hard.

Gene
Gene Gillam

So since I managed to get some brakes, I have put 30 miles on the clock.

Today my wife and I went to the drugstore, at 83/90 years, that's a weekly event, and then to the Dinner for lunch.

Upon return I noticed the red, low fuel give a blink. So after visiting the WC, another frequently occurring event at our age, I went to the gas station and added about 4 gallons. Then on to Pedro's, my painter, to talk about some repairs.
Upon returning home to the driveway, I noticed, the gas pump was running on.
I opened up the bonnet and found that all the screws holding the carb domes were loose and, in fact, one was gone. Tightening the 3 remaining ones stopped the fuel pump from running on, but now I have a rough and missing engine.

I pulled into the garage and checked the free drop on the front piston, the one with the missing screw. Its not free.

Loosen the one remaining screw and the piston drops free.
ordered two new screws from AS.

I am sure there are other loos nuts/bolts/screws yet to be fond.

i am open to any suggestions where to look next.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

Sounds like you are addressing things as they come. I would do the following:
first check ALL fluid levels, and top up or change as needed
Then take one unit at a time. Carbs first. Use plenty of carb cleaner and clean out the domes and pistons (don't mix them up),and be sure the pistons are free, and the needles straight and unbent. Be sure the pistons drop with a clunk when you have removed the dampers, to be sure the needles are centered. Make sure the jets fully retract when the choke cable is pushed in (my personal feeling, like engine oils, is that the original cork seals, soaked in oil before installations, work just fine). Check the throttle shafts for play; you will never get a good idle if you have worn carbs.

Check hoses and belts, then do the distributor. Make sure all is new/good, and do a thorough lube job. Check the wire ends and be sure there is good splaying of the wire strands at the ends. Any wear or corrosion - replace. Be sure that the points and timing are adjusted right (32 degrees at 3000 RPM full advance is what I use).

Adjust clutch and brakes,and your car should have all the basic systems running fine.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Thanks for the reply Tom.


The car has been under restoration for 48 years now.

There were three bursts of effort.
48 years ago, in Florida, when it was dismantles.
27 years, ago in Wisconsin, when the chassis and engine was redone and the last 5 or 6 years here in NJ when the gearbox was rebuilt, the body painted and reassembled.

I went through the Carbs, about 2 years ago using Dave's instructions and set up the floats and drop and, hopefully, everything else.

I appear to be suffering from things that should have been tightened back when but, for what ever reason, were not.

I caught the loose bolts on rear springs shackles and and spring hangers. I (luckily) found the missing front axle nut.
I checked out the front end. I have recently replaced the gaiters and the rubbers on the tie rod ends.
I checked the bolts on the drive shaft.
When I redid the Gear box I replaced the clutch and Throw out bearings. The Bell housing to motor bolts should be OK, I cant get to them to be sure. I checked the bell housing to sump bolts.

I seem to have missed the 4 carb screws. There was some leakage on the fuel pump to carb hoses that I found as well as the lower bolt that holds the fuel bowel on to the car body. They are now tight.

I guess I will just need to keep looking for things I could have missed.

I think the issue is the length of time that elapsed between restoration spurts and my aging memory.

Thanks again Tom.

Jim B
JA Benjamin

It happens, I’m finding out as well...

Bill Chasser
TD-4834
W A Chasser

This thread was discussed between 29/10/2017 and 04/11/2017

MG TD TF 1500 index

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