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MG TD TF 1500 - Pulling brake drum & clutch pilot bushing
I am back working on my '54 mgtf. I am trying to pull the brake drums on my TF. The workshop manual describes the procedure for a TD with disc wheels. My TF has wire wheels and it does not describe the procedure for wire wheels. The front drums look like you pull the hub pin & nut. Trying to get the cotter pi pulled looks like a job. Not much room and have to back it out through hole in hub.
The other project I am working on is replacing the clutch. I know to soak the new pilot bushing overnight in oil, but I need to know how to get the old pilot bushing out. I have heard that is easy.
I have most of the parts I need to get this TF on the road, at least around the neighborhood, for the first time in over 40 years. I am excited.
Thank you, George Higginson
|The wire wheels are best pulled with the factory puller, a big collar that screws onto the knock-off threads, and then has a central bolt that pushes against the stub axle. It's pretty hard without. And yes, the cotter pin comes out the hole in the hub.|
As for the clutch, yes, soak the pilot bushing. The easiest way to get the old one is to fill it with grease, and then get a dowel to fit tightly, and hammer on the dowel. The bushing should just walk out.
If that doesn't work I use a hacksaw blade to saw most of the way through the bushing, and then break the pieces out with a chisel and hammer.
Don't forget to use a dummy shaft to line up the clutch disc, and check the clutch linkage for wear.
Bravo on working to revive your car; there are a couple of other guys who have done 40-year cars lately. Bravo to all of you!
|Napa tappet puller for spigot. Cheap and worked great!|
|" I know to soak the new pilot bushing overnight in oil,"|
A quick way to complete a 24 hour soak in minutes can be accomplished as follows: Place the one open end on your thumb, fill the bushing with oil until it brims over the top, place your other thumb on the remaining open end (brimming with oil). Press your two thumbs while watching the bushing - when you see oil oozing out of the pores of the bushing, you have completed your 24 hour soak in seconds instead of hours.
This procedure has been a God send to me, as I always forgot about soaking the bushing until I was ready to install it. Cheers - Dave
|Thank you for the help. |
I do not have the puller that threads on to the wheel hub. Is there a more common puller that works, or where would I find the correct puller? Again many heart felt thanks, George
|You said you were trying to remove the brake drums, which, at least with the wire wheels, I do not believe requires removing the hubs, if my memory serves me....|
|J K Barter|
|On wire wheel TF you only remove the drum, back off the adjuster, remove the 6 nuts, may have a retainer washer that needs to be flattened.|
Try wriggling the drum, if no joy persuasion with wooden block and hammer will work.
|P G Gilvarry|
|You do not need to remove the hub on a wire wheel car. As said before, remove the nuts and then the drum.
|L E D LaVerne|
|After backing off the brake shoes.|
|Spigot bushes aren't usually tight and if you are worried about damaging the bore you can glue a bolt in the bush with epoxy and wind it out with a nut and spacer tube. Put the bolt and spacer tube on first though!|
|Reactivating this thread to ask if anyone knows the torque value to tighten the nuts that holds the drum for the TF wire wheels?|
Looked in WSM and been reading archives....
|They donít need to be overly tight as the locking plate will take care of locking them in place.|
|P G Gilvarry|
|thank you Peter!|
|Other than a test drive do not drive without the lock tabs.|
|P G Gilvarry|
This thread was discussed between 24/09/2016 and 15/10/2019
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