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MG TD TF 1500 - Quick Fix for Stuck Fuel Pump?
Looking for a miracle hack to get my fuel pump running again with a major overhaul. The pump is an original one with points. Historically if I did not drive the car for a few months I could find the fuel pump not clicking over when the ignition was turned on. Sometimes a light tap on the body was all that was required. At other times prying to points rocker would free it up.
Today, after the car sat for 6 months, I again hear no clicks. Taking the power off shows it does have a spark. Taking the points over off there was no movement from the shaft. I put a little WD40 in to make sure everything was lubed OK and made sure the points were ok. I also pried a but on the lever and verified it would move some fuel but it does not move far enough to rock the contacts mechanism. So I am looking for any other ideas to treat the pump in situ before I take the unit off the car and figure out what is wrong. I suspect gas may have gummed up somewhere in the mechanism but fuel pumps are not my forte. |
Christopher Couper |
"I suspect gas may have gummed up somewhere in the mechanism..." Try filing (I use a sharpening stone) on both the upper and lower points. If that doesn't get it going, contact me directly at sufuelpumps@donobi.net Cheers, |
DW DuBois |
WD-40, as you may know, is not a lubricant. It’s purpose in life is to prevent metal from flash rusting. Regards, Tom |
tm peterson |
Chris, If your pump dates from before lead free petrol, then your problem is most likely to be that the diaphragm has hardened. You don't have any choice the pump needs to be overhauled. John |
J Scragg |
Either dirty points or petrified diaphragm likely. I rebuilt my likely original pump with a Burlen SU kit from Abingdon Spares. Really great detailed directions were included. The old diaphragm was really stiff and was the problem. George |
George Butz III |
I added a second (backup) pump to my TF as the SU is located under the car at the rear. It was easy to do while the tank was empty, put in a shut-off valve, added an inline filter and an electric pump with 2.5PSI output.
All this was before the SU in the line. The long term plan is to add a switch and a fuse for each pump. the switch will allow use of either pump, and and independent fuse for each pump offers redundancy. (the original is NOT fused) With a "center = OFF" switch you can add a theft protection feature in case they figure out how to move the fuse to steal the car. Having said that I had my original pump rebuilt by Dave and his service was great, the pump looks better than new and sits on the shelf waiting it's turn. BTW he does an electronics conversion and gives you a full report. Just my thoughts. Peter |
P G Gilvarry |
Do yourself a favour and send the pump to Dave DuBois who has forgotten more about these pumps than most of us ever new. He provides a professional rebuild at modest cost. Many of our club members up here in rainy Vancouver have his rebuilds in our T’s. |
gl rombough |
While we have had unleaded fuel in Calif since forever, I too think the diaphragm is probably stiff and ultimately needs to be replaced. I could not pry it sufficiently with a small screwdriver in order to get the rocker to flip. I will order the Burlen SU kit from Abingdon Spares as a matter of completeness.
In the meantime does anyone of a technique that can be applied while the pump is on the car to gauge the diaphragm movement and or get it exercised? I pulled the mounting block aside but did not remove it. If I have to I will pull the pump off the car and put it on a workbench and dissemble it, but I was hoping for some sort of miracle quick fix. :-) |
Christopher Couper |
George: Is this the correct fuel pump kit? No mention of Berlen https://abingdonspares.com/products/su-fuel-pump-rebuild-kit |
Christopher Couper |
Quote" In the meantime does anyone of a technique that can be applied while the pump is on the car to gauge the diaphragm movement and or get it exercised? I pulled the mounting block aside but did not remove" End-quote You can jump the contacts with a small clip lead. Make sure they are open to begin with a piece of paper will do. Just touch across the contacts and you can judge the diaphragm movement. You should see a small spark. If not check electrical connection and ground. Jim B. |
JA Benjamin |
Update: The pump is working again. Two factors changed and I cannot tell you if either of these had anything to do with it or perhaps it was something else like aliens:
* It sat overnight after I manually exercised it a few times yesterday * I charged the battery - it could turn over the car, but not smartley. I did not check the voltage level before charging but it did peg the charger when I put it on. I went ahead and ordered the AS Fuel Pump Kit just in case I need it later on. Thanks for all the help and suggestions. |
Christopher Couper |
Chris. Now go out and drive it. Lol. Maybe a trip to Sacramento and we’ll get my TD out and do a drive down the delta and grab lunch in Walnut Grove or Isleton while the temps are so nice. Or I can come your way and we can head over to Jackson or Pine Grove... Cheers Bill Chasser TD-4834 |
W A Chasser |
"Now go out and drive it." Bill has the correct idea :) Cheers - |
DW DuBois |
As soon as I get my tires swapped I am good to go. |
Christopher Couper |
That is the kit I used. Very complete and correct. George |
George Butz III |
This thread was discussed between 25/10/2018 and 26/10/2018
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