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MG TD TF 1500 - quicky radiator request
I don't seem to have a pic of the radiator mount. Does it just have two nuts and two big washers under the mounting plate. If anyone has a picture from under the radiator I will be your friend. Rob |
Rob Welborne |
The rad is mounted with a washer, a rubber mounting washer approx. 1/4" thick and another washer, that all mount on a stud on the bottom of the rad. This is all secured by a nut. Same on both sides. The nuts are a little difficult to get to under the support bracket. Hope this helps. |
C.R. Tyrell |
Rob, take a look at Dave's website http://www.dbraun99.com/mgtd15470/ this is a mine of useful informaiton and photographs both during disassembly and reassumbly of a car. I believe you will find pictures of the radiator mounts in the appropriate section. Matt |
Matt Davis |
Or, look at a Moss catalog to see the stackup of the 7 mounting components. Bud |
Bud Krueger |
I dont even use the nuts on the bottom. Where is the radiator going? bonnet and the stays and the headlights hold the thing down. |
Tom Maine (TD8105) |
Rob, Here is a picture of my old bent mount. Four holes to mount to the front outriggers. Two holes to accept the radiator. There are also two transverse holes in the flanges for the starter crank to pass thru. No picture of the replacement but check out eBay. That's where I got mine. They may have a better picture. Mort |
Mort 1950 TD1851 Möbius |
>I dont even use the nuts on the bottom. I just pulled my engine to replace the flywheel and of course the rad had to come out. (This is the first time I've done a T-car.) The book said to remove the radiator mount nuts. I spent more time than I care to admit looking for them, until I realised there were none! PO hadn't installed them.... |
Rob Edwards |
Rob, I know what the books say but we have more than one in our club where the nuts were not put on. The only way that radiator is going to come out is if the car is upside down and if thats the case, its too late for you anyway...jmho... Mine has been that way for over 10 years with no issues whatsoever. |
Tom Maine (TD8105) |
Not saying it's right or wrong -- only that I spent quite some time scratching my head trying to find them only to realise they weren't there! |
Rob Edwards |
Don't know if this helps. The rubber washers have Aluminium rings on the outside that stops the rubber from spreading when you tighten the bolt. From memory there's a rubber washer above and below the steel support bar. There are penny washers between the rubber and the bolt that spread the load into the rubber. I see no need for a lock nut as you are tightening up on the rubber which acts as a spring washer. AJ |
A R Jones |
Hi AJ, Hope you don't mind me mentioning it, but I couldn't help noticing that both your horns are mounted upside down, with the offside one facing to the rear. Just curious! Cheers, John |
J C Mitchell |
Thanks guys, All info lots of help as always. I just thought I had a pic when I removed it but did not, The rubber with the metal rings on mine were stuck together so I think they were installed together with no nuts. I have been to Daves site many times but for whatever reason could not find a pic. But now I have so I am good to go. I can see how they may not be needed but I just want the car as it rolled off the line, or as close as I will be able to get. Thanks again, Rob |
Rob Welborne |
Thanks John but it's not my car, it's one a friend has in his workshop. I've been taking a few pics of it while he has it for reference but thanks for pointing it out. I'll check my own! AJ |
A R Jones |
Rob, you will find that there is not enough clearance between the bottom of the bracket that the radiator sits on and the steering housing for the lower nuts to go directly on the radiator studs. It requires temporarily shimming the radiator up so the studs are only partially through the bracket, and starting the nuts, then gradually lowering the radiator as you tighten the nuts. Also contributing to the aggravation is the fact that the nuts are up withing the turned down sides of the bracket, and the wrench will not directly address the nut. This is on the list with the clutch and brake pedal bushings as a "fun" job. As the possibility exist that you may have to remove the radiator after initial installation (possible water pump issues, or leaks; radiator hood alignment or fit, etc) I would at least wait until final assembly is complete and some test runs have been made before "fitting up" the lower nuts. FWIW Dallas |
Dallas Congleton |
>Hope you don't mind me mentioning it, but I couldn't help noticing that both your horns are mounted upside down Ha! My first thought was, "Hope you don't mind me mentioning it, but I couldn't help noticing that both your horns are mounted under the radiator, not up on the firewall where they belong." ;-) I'm assuming that's a TF? Do TF horns mount down below? And it seems that original or not, having them point backward (or at least not forward) would go a long way towards keep crap out of them! |
Rob Edwards |
Hi Rob, Yes, TF horns are mounted under the radiator - not the best position I know, but because of the lowered bonnet it was the only sensible place for them, and at least they point into the open air and can possibly be heard better than the TD ones. Also, as you know MGAs used the same position over seven years of production, and having owned both cars over many years, I've never had problems with grot in the trumpets. Cheers, John |
J C Mitchell |
This thread was discussed between 04/01/2012 and 05/01/2012
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