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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Rack & Pinion ass'y by Moss ?

After five years it's time to get serious about this TD's steering, heck the TC handles better and that is saying something. Original parts are long gone and I haven't seen any offered anywhere for sale. Does anybody have a source for these parts? I do see that the big 'M' is offering a 'new' (that from Moss scares me to death) rack and pinion ass'y. Has anyone ventured to try this offering and installed one yet with success? Is there anyone on this side of the pond willing to rebuild them, my first choice. Thanks for your help. Russ
RAH Russ

A local shop installed a Moss R&P in my TF in January 2014, a couple of weeks after I bought the car. It works fine. My car is the only T-series car that I have ever driven so I can't tell you how it compares to the original. The shop didn't have a WSM, so their tool of choice to install it was a BFH. Probably would have gone in easier if they had the book.

FYI - It doesn't require lubrication.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

I could not find a rebuilder here.

I rebuilt the entire front end and installed the Moss r and p. It works perfect and the car drives like a new 52 car.

It is built in SA by the company that builds r and p for BMW. That says a lot.

It is a 3 out 5 for a DIY project. Had the alignment done professional.

Joe

JWP Policastro


RAH, can you tell what is the major issue with your car Rack and Pinion? I've been successful at re shimming and adjusting mine in a couple of cars. The only issue I found in one was a worn outer rack housing on the right side where there is no provision for compensating for wear. It made a clunking noise when the steering wheel moved from left to right.
The reason I ask is I see them for sell on EBAY occasionally, and I have a couple of good spare ones myself. If you wanted to stay original, and yours doesn't have any major components worn out, it could be cleaned up and be rebuilt. However, if originality isn't an issue, the price for the Moss unit looks reasonable too.
Richard Cameron

Russ,
A couple of weeks ago I changed my rack & pinion unit on my TD against a new one from MOSS. The label on the unit say that is was made in Argentina. The housing looks somewhat different to the original one but all over it makes a good impression for me. I believe that the original housing was a complete casting while the Argentina replacement seems to me as an assembly of two casting ends with a tubular center piece.
Anyway, if the radiator and the shroud were removed it was easy to exchange the rack & pinion unit. I know that some guys did the job successfully without removing the radiator but I cannot comment on it. By the way during assembly of the new unit I put a 5mm shim underneath the attachment lugs to get more clearance between steering shaft and oil pump. This was an issue on my car since I have changed to the 5-speed Ford gearbox. If you have similar problems this can be your answer as well.
All in all I can say that the exchange takes only a couple of hours and not a full day. Everything went easily in and out. Just one remark I believe that the Tie rods are a little bit too long. I was not able to adjust the track with this additional length. My answer was to cut the Tie rod’s about ¼” at its end.
It was a good investment for me and my car. I can recommend this exchange if you have really some trouble with the Rack & Pinion unit.
The driving experience is good. With the new unit the steering motion is somewhat more stiff than before.
Cheers,
Guenter
GK Guenter

Guenter,

You mentioned that you put a 5mm shim under the steering rack mounts. In that case you have introduced "bump steer" into the steering geometry. Bump steer is an undesirable effect which changes the geometry when going over a bump (or rebound).
The steering rack height forms an integral part of the overall steering geometry of the front axle.
Having said that, the question is how critical is this on our old cars.

John

J Scragg

Sure John, you are right with your advice. The shims will bring the Rack & Pinion unit to a higher position but I believe this will not significant change the geometry. As far as I can say there is no change in handling the car as before.
Cheers,
Guenter



GK Guenter

Russ
Have you pulled the R & P out of the housing? If the R & P teeth are worn - this could be your problem.

I have a LHD Rack & Pinion set available for purchase. I purchased them before realizing there is a difference between LHD & RHD set ups (teeth run in different/ opposite direction)

If interested contact me at mvec at bigpond dot com

Stuart

Stuart Duncan

Hello Richard - Sorry for the delay, I didn't forget about you. The car was hit very hard on the RH front, bent the wheel and tire. I haven't taken the rack down as yet but pretty sure it's a broken tooth on the rack or pinion. The steering will lock up on a right turn till I turn back slightly to the left and it will free up. High speed driving is out. Yes, I'd like to keep it original, I'm soooooo tired of poor reproduction aftermarket junk. Please drop me a note at Russhart1971 at gmail dot com. Thx Russ
RAH Russ

This thread was discussed between 23/09/2015 and 24/09/2015

MG TD TF 1500 index

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