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MG TD TF 1500 - Radiator Queries and Drain Tap Pipe
It seems there was a U shaped pipe that connected to the drain tap at the bottom of the radiator. This is evident in some of the barn finds on Chris Couper's site. Anyone know if this is available? Also I've just purchased the two radiator ID plates from FTFU and am seeking info on the original locations and means of fixing. Pics showing original installations would be a great help. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Drain pipe: Abington spares part number 19-101B. |
J Cosin |
You can use an old fuel line and bend it as the pictures and WSM show. It's the same material and size. |
Christopher Couper |
Thanks Chris. Now if I only had an old fuel line... I think I'll find a fitting and maybe knock something up. With shipping from the States the AM part is about $60. Do you have any info on the radiator plates location? Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Looking from the rear, as if you're sitting in the cockpit, both plates go on the right side. Maker's plate on top as shown, just below the circle.
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Steve Simmons |
And the other...
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Steve Simmons |
Thanks Steve. Great info. Do you know if they were soldered in place? Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Yes they are soldered in place. They also could be skewed a bit like Steve's picture shows. Both of them. |
Christopher Couper |
I found a better picture of the drain tap line |
Christopher Couper |
Peter, Here's a pic of the maker's plate on my car. Regards Declan |
Declan Burns |
Another
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Declan Burns |
Peter, There is a drain tap pipe on Ebay US at the moment. Low buy it now price, you will need to check postage costs. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253582562425?clk_rvr_id=1525248908392&rmvSB=true John |
J Scragg |
The tags can (and should) be removed during a re-core and re-attached. You can use the same solder as the tank is assembled with. |
Steve Simmons |
Thanks all. Unpacked my re-cored radiator yesterday and discovered that the female connector is attached to the drain tap so I'm going to find some copper suitable pipe and make my own. With PayPal fees, shipping and the exchange rate the Ebay item is pretty pricey at over $90 AU. I've kept a pic of it for reference. The two plates supplied by FTFU are a good copy of the originals. Questions answered! Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Here's a pic of the Ebay item showing the length and flare at the female end. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
I need a couple of dimensions to make an accurate pipe. I have the original female compression nut. It carries a 3/8" pipe with a 1/4" BSP thread. They're not that easy to find though, however the 3/8" copper pipe is readily available. I was able to use a flaring tool to create a single flare at the nut end. Not the original olive seen above I know but as it's not seen it'll do the job. Can someone with an original pipe tell me the diameter of the 180 degree bend and the distance that the pipe projects from the drain tap towards the engine? The overall length of the pipe appears to be 12". Cheers
Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
It's pretty straight forward. You can see the diameter of the curved part from your ebay picture. It's also about as tight as you will be able to bend it with a spring cover. Then as you can see the lower part angles down a bit in order to just clear the front of the frame cross member. It descends just on the inside of the mount for the steering rack. I have mine cut off just a little below the bottom of the cross member. Just cut it off after all the bends are in place and you like how it looks. |
Christopher Couper |
OK. I didn't realize that this pic actually shows the correct bends. I'll anneal the pipe and then attempt to reproduce what I see in the Ebay pic. I'll have some spare once the job is done ( I'm making a few to justify the hire of the pipe bender) so if anyone here in Oz want one just let me know. Yours for the cost of the materials etc., shipping, plus a beer for my time.. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Just get a set or one of these at your local store |
Christopher Couper |
Peter: I took the eBay image and imported it into Auto Sketch. I scaled the thickness of the pipe until it measured 3/8". That's the only dimension I know. There could be errors in doing that. Its 3/8 +/- 1/32.. I fitted circles to the bends. The RADIUS of the large circle is 2-3/16. The RADIUS of the small circle is 1-1/8" I added a few linear dimensions. If you need more dimensions let me know. Jim B. |
JA Benjamin |
A beer for your time, you work cheaply! |
P G Gilvarry |
Jim that's exactly what I need. :-) Chris I have some in my toolbox but as I'm seeking a precise bend the bending machine seems like the go, providing it gives me the radius I need. On the net I was surprised to see that these springs are suggested to be used internally. If I had to, I'd use two, one on the inside and the other outside after annealing, to avoid any suggestion of crimping. If push comes to shove even using dry sand in the pipe over the desired circular former would also do the job.
I found some compression nuts at the local mechanic. The original dimension across the flats was .600" and he had half a dozen @ .630". Close enough for me. Peter over the past 4 years I've had plenty of help from more than a few of the guys on this site at what I'd call mate's rates, so a beer is fine by me. What goes around, comes around. By the way the washers arrived yesterday. Thanks! This site operates the way I think a car club should. No fees and plenty of willing and knowledgeable members. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Gentlemen -- After much searching, I found a photo of the drain tube from my TD. Hope this helps, - Lou VanK.
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Lou Van Koningsveld |
Thanks Lou. I'll add the pic to my collection. I'm sure it will help with the bending. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Just had a horrible thought. Looking at Lou's pipe it seems that the pipe fits INTO the olive which would mean that the pipe may well be 1/4" not 3/8". Can anybody confirm this? The compression nut detail that I have is correct, it's just the diameter of the pipe that I need to clarify. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Peter, Have a look at this and I think it answers your question. https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/products/unn-container-solder-type-nut-and-nipple Regards Declan |
Declan Burns |
Sure looks like that's the fitting I need. But WHICH one Declan and what is the size of the pipe? Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
1/4 BSP for 5/16 pipe. |
Lew Palmer |
Hmmm.. 5/16" copper pipe will be almost impossible to find here so I'll have to go with the 3/8" and use a flare at the female end. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Why not 8 mm pipe? Very close. |
Lew Palmer |
Peter, It says exactly what size pipe for what size compression nut on that website. Do not get confused with the BSP nut thread and the pipe diameter. One is a pipe thread and the other is a pipe diameter in inches. I would use 8mm as Lew has suggested. Regards Declan |
Declan Burns |
This may, or may not be helpful! In the UK there are two different wall thicknesses of copper pipe. The thin one is generally used in plumbing and is qute easy to twist and dent, and kinks more easily on bending. The thicker is used for fuel lines and is far more robust and bends to a tighter radius without kinking. |
Ian Bowers |
Declan has it right - Paul Beck Vintage Supplies has all of the fittings for the cars - I regularly purchase quantities of the fittings for the fuel pumps from Paul Beck - it is the only place that I have found that has the correct fittings. Cheers |
DW DuBois |
I am trying to figure out why Lou's pipe goes horizontal like it does. Who would figure a thread about a simple drain pipe would get so involved. :-) |
Christopher Couper |
I now have the correct annealed 5/16" copper pipe and a local source for the elusive brass 'solder on tail and nut' as they're referred to here in Sydney. They're manufactured here in NSW. The annealed pipe will be really easy to bend into the correct shape, whatever that turns out to be. Thanks to all who've contributed. I'll post a pic when I've made a couple. Maybe someone who has an OEM pipe fitted to a car that hasn't been messed with too much could answer Chris's question? Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Chris it just got a bit more involved. Check out the following three shots in your gallery: 4/29 on the unidentified red car, 102 on 11272 and 25 on 23834. These are the only three clear pics in your gallery showing the bends in what we assume to be the OEM radiator drain pipe. The installation on these 3 cars clearly indicates that Lou's black and white pic posted above does show the correct series of bends in the pipe.
The shortest length of annealed 5/16" pipe that I could locate in Sydney was 3 metres long which meant that I have enough to make 10 units! I've cut and bent the pipe following the dimensions supplied by Jim but will now need to add the final bend as shown in Lou's pic. Jim can you translate Lou's pic into dimensions? The fittings arrive on Tuesday. Should have something to post here by the end of the week. Thank you Lou. Great find. :-) Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Interesting. I swore I looked over all those images. I am thinking my gallery is like something from Harry Potter where the images just morph on their own. :-) I am going to post Lou's picture somewhere and perhaps Jims too with dimensions. Nice find. And now I have to go and redo my pipe! |
Christopher Couper |
Here is Lou's Pix Dimensioned. I did use a 1/64 increment. The picture resolution was no very sharp so dimensions can be off a bit due to indeterminacy in scaling. Jim B. |
JA Benjamin |
I put it in here: http://www.mg-cars.org.uk/mgtd/Pictures/UnRestored/Thumbnails/mgtd_gallery_unrestored.htm |
Christopher Couper |
Rats. I keep forgetting my copy/paste adds https. please remove the s and copy and paste. |
Christopher Couper |
Jim: great diagram. Can you addend it to show the total length of the pipe too? |
Christopher Couper |
I can add it as a text box if thats ok. I just did that for Peter. I can click, move, and click again and measure the distance between clicks. I did this twice in (about) 3/8" increments along the length of the tube up to the open end of the mut, on the eBay picture. It was 11-1/2 to 11-15/16. I can do the dame for Lou's and put it in a test box, if thats good for you? Jim B. |
JA Benjamin |
Here you are Chris. It measures longer than the one on eBay. Jim B. |
JA Benjamin |
I've made mine 12" long based on the Ebay pic so I hope they'll fit OK. Thanks again Lou, Jim and Chris. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Thanks Jim. I am pretty sure I am going to have to cut myself another pipe and resolder the end. I also cannot fathom why they bent it this way instead of having it end vertically. Must be a British thing. :-) |
Christopher Couper |
It does seem odd especially when you consider the purpose. A further note on the length. I resized Lou's pic until 1" on the ruler in the pic actually measured 1". Using a piece of electrical wire I overlaid the wire on the screen following the shape of the pipe and I then straightened and measured the wire. I get 12 1/2". Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Ah. The old fashioned way. :-) I hacked Jim's picture and updated it to 12 1/2" |
Christopher Couper |
I wonder why they didn't put that style on the TF? Here's what I found when pulling the car apart. PJ |
PJ Jennings |
Chris could you send me a copy of the updated pic? I want to include it in the paper I've just written. Checking FTFU's site it seems that PJ is correct as Doug only shows the drain pipe as being fitted to the TD. He does show a couple of drain taps, one of which is threaded. Anglo's illustrations don't help. Moss doesn't illustrate, at least not so I could find on the web. I've asked a couple of local gurus to confirm that they were only fitted to TDs. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
OK one more time. I re-scaled the picture using Peters suggestion of scaling to make included ruler 1". I should have thought of that in the first place. With the ruler 1" (within 1/64") I measure the linear distance as 12.05" I have been out back helping to chop trees that fell in the latest storm. Broke two chainsaw chains. Jim B. |
JA Benjamin |
Thanks Jim. I'll add it to the 'how to' I've written. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Many of the drain tap pipes are broken off or missing. This means coolant sprays back or all over the engine when you want to drain the radiator. I have a drain pipe bent so it drains straight down in front of the cross member and nothing gets spilled or splattered when you open up the tap with a pan under the car. For the life of me I cannot understand the geometry of the correct shape of the pipe working properly and the TF tap is just going to spay fluid everywhere too, it appears. |
Christopher Couper |
Chris, I put a soft plastic hose on my TF tap and now it will drain in a pan if needed. Not original looking, but works very well. PJ |
PJ Jennings |
Here the drawing: http://www.mg-cars.org.uk/mgtd/Pictures/UnRestored/Thumbnails/mgtd_gallery_unrestored.htm Pictures 107 |
JS Jac |
I'm just flabbergasted that I had the presence of mind to include a scale. I must have been ALOT younger. Things like that don't happen very often nowadays. Good ihread everyone. Lou |
Lou Van Koningsveld |
Lou: At first I was wondering why you included that box of nails in the picture. I probably looked at it 5 times before it dawned on me. :-) |
Christopher Couper |
Thank you gentlemen. I didn't really need to replace my pipe, but it only took a few minutes and now I know it's correct.
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Lew Palmer |
This pic shows a wire coathanger cut to size and overlaid over the screen once the image size was adjusted to match the 1" ruler. This makes a perfect template. Just need to tweak the middle bend and we're right to go. The 'solder on tails' and nuts have arrived so now I'm about to make the final bend and assemble the 10 pipes. If you're local and want one just let me know. Happy to do a swap for something that I might need. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
"If you're local and want one just let me know." I am going to go out and measure mine this weekend to see if I have enough length. If not, given enough time and HI will fill in the gap and then I will be local. :-) |
Christopher Couper |
And here they are. Ten in total. If you look closely you'll notice that the length of the compression nut varies slightly. One is original, six came from the local mechanic from stuff he's had in a box of fittings for years and the remaining three are slightly larger again and were made recently here in NSW. All of the 'solder on tails' are new except for the original. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Pic 2.
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P Hehir |
Are we supposed to guess which of the 10 is the original? :-) |
Christopher Couper |
If you have to guess Chris then I'd say the mission was a success. :-) Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Those weren't soft soldered , were they Peter? |
Lew Palmer |
I am picking the one dead center in pic #1 or the lower left in pic #2 :-) |
Christopher Couper |
Yeah Lew. Not braized. The original I had was soldered as was the one that was advertised on Ebay. I used a high silver content solder to give it some strength. Not that it needs it as it's not under any pressure. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
No cigar Chris... :-) Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
So the LHD TD had a different drain pipe to the RHD TD. Have to check the factory parts book again ?. Cheers Tony |
A L SLATTERY |
This thread was discussed between 09/05/2018 and 01/06/2018
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