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MG TD TF 1500 - Ram-Air Filters

Well, project #23-B complete. A set of Ram-air filters installed replacing the old oil bath, which was hugely restrictive. Advantages of the Ram-Air; they have a larger filtration area than other pancakes (which suck in air around the circumference of the pancake, this filter sucks air from every direction except the back metal plate); they claim better air flow than K&N by 40%. There is even a little Ram-Air sock on the valve cover. Result: better air flow than stock, and that's all I was concerned about. I'm keeping the oil bath filter so I can swap it back when I want to.
The project did require slightly bending the radiator stay (which was already slightly bent; it needed about another half inch bend). I also had to cap and redrill the Ramair baseplates to match the H2 carbs and allow me to place them in a vertical position; the horizontal position would not fit due to overlap in the center, as well as in a horizontal position they were lower down and thus would have required more bending of the radiator bar as well as possibly getting squeezed by the cowl.
I chose the Ramair because I think they are (probably) better than my other choices, stock pancakes or a Vokes filter setup. As Vokes wasn't period on my car anyway, I might as well be hung for a sheep as a lamb!

Anyone interested in RamAir can see their products at http://ramair-filters.co.uk/


I put in a new pump-to-carb fuel line to replace the one that just started spewing gas last week, and the engine bay is nice and dry at last! No oil or gas dripping!

You may also notice a glass bowl fuel filter. I know many don't approve of filters between tank and pump; but I already had a filter there (which I hadn't been aware of) and which did not allow you to see sediment buildup. This way, I can see the crud accumulate and clean it out/replace filter as soon as I see it arrive. I'll keep spares on hand.

I also replaced the flasher with a negative ground electronic flasher, which works perfectly now I've switched from positive ground. It also allows me to get the dash turn indicator light working for the first time; for some reason it never worked with the old positive ground flasher.

Two more projects: wire in the rebuilt wiper motor and wire in the accessory jacks, and I'm about done... for now, anyway.

Then its time to put a top on her!


Geoffrey M Baker

Geoffrey, Please keep us informed on how the rewiring of the wiper motor goes. I determined that you can use a single conductor "hot" wire to the motor and use the windscreen frame for the return to earth. Do you plan on running one or two conductor? Will you be taking the entire windscreen frame apart or just the top and side to route the wire(s?) through? Will you be putting new (don't know what it's called) caulking in the windscreen frame for the glass?

Routing new wiper motor wire is also my next project.

Thanks.

Jud
J K Chapin

Jud, sorry to say that the wiper project only needed one last thing - running the wire under the cowl and connecting it. I rebuilt the wiper motor a couple of years ago, and then when I had my windshield redone (rechrome and new glass) I ran the wire before taking it to the glass people and letting them put it together. So all I had left was to wire it to the motor itself and wire it to the car power. I used the stock Moss replacement wire, which is two strands. There was no caulking, just more rubber, wrapped around the glass in the frame, as I recall.

Good luck - its a fun project. I don't recommend doing the glass yourself, its easy to break. Don't ask me how I know :)

Geoffrey M Baker

This thread was discussed on 02/05/2014

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