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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Re-animating a TD

I have inherited a 1953 TD that has belonged to various family memebers since 1957. The relative from whom I have received it has told me the following things (which I take with a smallish grain of salt).

1. The engine is in fine mechanical condition.
2. The engine has not run in 10 years.
3. The wiring harness needs to be replaced.

These are the things I have observed:

1. Someone messed with the carbs and did restore them to working order.
2. One of the fuel lines leading to the carbs looks a little hinky (and by "hinky" I mean it looks like a piece of clear tubing).
3. There are many many cosmetic issues that need to be adressed (holes in toneau, top is the wrong color, rust on the body, original seat leather has given up the ghost, body was repainted a non MG (in fact a Cadillac) color).

In the best of all possible worlds I'd like to be able to start it up and run it for the summer. I'm hoping such a process woudl be able to allow me to verify the veracity of the first and third points from my first list above. So, gentlepeople, my question to you is, "What are the steps I should take to attempt to restart this car?"

Thanks in advance for your help.
Matthew

Hey Matthew... If you join the group (become a member), when you sign on you will see an "archives" link up there with the 'start a new thread' line.
There is just a ton of stuff if you search on 'start up' or 'hasn't run' or anything along that line.
Welcome to the 'it hasn't run for ten years or more' group...you will have tons of fun and meet tons of great people.

(and fill out your numbers at: http://www.niagarabritishcarclub.org/mgtnumbers/numbers.html )
gordon lawson - TD 27667

Mathew,

Welcome!

Get a Moss Motors Catalog, and look at how the car is put together. Order new fuel lines.

Get a service manual on ebay, or through Moss.

Lubricate the chasiss and check for 'clunks' as you move suspension parts. It is relatively easy to renew suspension bushings and the like.

Check the Clutch linkages for elongated holes and too much free play.

Go over the brakes, they adjust right through the disc wheels if someone has put the wheels on in the correct orientation. Adjust them (two each forward wheel, one each rear) with a big flat blade screwdriver until the wheel just locks, and then back off one click. Check the master cylinder level. If you have any doubts about the brake system, rebuild it now.

Change the oil, the differential fluid and the gear box fluid.

Patch the wiring harness for now, eliminate shorts and open circuits. Clean up all the grounds.

Do a compression test on the engine and set the valves.

Drive the car for a few months before you decide to really start taking things apart. You will learn a lot about it, and that will help you when you dive in further.

email me separatly at dbraun99 at comcast dot net if you would like access to my restoration photosite. It might help you to see what things look like in pieces.

Good luck,
dave
Dave Braun

Pull the spark plugs ...a little Marvel Mystery Oil down each hole and "turn" the motor by hand crank a little for a few days so you don't snap the rings would be a good idea before you hit the starter.
Fresh gas and a new filter.
FIRE EXTINSHER on READY ...before you hit that fuel pump!
Don't get in a hurry to hit the starter!
DO sign in and set-up a membership in this BBS and read archives first!
Check out Gordons website ..he has not only been there, done that...but has done an excellent job of documenting it!
We are here for you!
Cheers & Best Luck,
David 55 TF1500 #7427
David Sheward

Speaking of gas...pull the gas line at the tank and see what is in the brass filter...nothing like the smell of 20 year old fuel!!!!!!
(and the fire extinguisher is a great idea...had two at the ready the day we turned it over....)
gordon lawson - TD 27667

Matt,
Where abouts are your burbs. Long Islandish or Westchesterish?
V.W. Piņa

Gentlepeople:

Thank you for your responses. I am the originator of this post, but was unaware that one could post without having joined and figured that some computer voodoo had rembered my registration. Anyway, I have a shop manual (as well as the original owners manual), so that, along with Mr. Bang's restoration manual make me feel fairly confident that I can perform some of the basic home garage operations. I do, however have some follow up questions.

1. How does one perform a compression test?
2. What sort of multimeter do you folks use for your electrical work.

Some ansers:

Mr. Lawson: I'll find my numbers and enter them soon.
Mr. Pena (I don't know how to make my keyboard do an enye, lo siento) I'm Westchesterish, in the Yonx.

M.W. Krawiec

The T Series Handbook from the New England MG T Register has really good data and information on how to perform various maintenance and tune-up tasks.

For a compression test, in general, you have the engine warm, pull the spark plugs, thread in the compression tester and turn the engine over with the spark plugs out about six times. Repeat for each cylinder. Since every guage is different, balance is more important than a specific reading. Each reading should be within about 10 pounds, with the max difference between the greatest and the least 15. Typical on a good engine is about 145 with my gauge. You can start your engine and warm it up once you get to that point, and it will run and drive with one or two poor cylinders, but you will know a lot more about the health of your engine afterwards.

I use both a digital and an analog meter depending on what I'm doing.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun


Matt- FWIW, my son and I have just started 'going back up' on a TD from a basket and this group is great. I need to tell you about a fellow we met last weekend, he helped me restore my frame in one day to new cindition. Mick at mmmgtcars@yahoo.com in southwestern PA near Pittsburg. What a great guy, and he has walls (literally) of original and NOS parts. He does not do work on your car but will give you honest answers about your problems as others on this site. If you need almost ANY MG part from 1933 to 1963 he probably has it. Good luck with your project and keep us advised on how things go. Also hook up with Bud K and his link to Ttalk for pictures and hints, he is also a great contact Frank U.
Frank u.

Matt,

Don't worry about the ņ but it is alt 164 that allows that to happen.

I am Mid Long Island but go up towards your way to get to Chappaqua to visit relatives. I asked cause if you need any help, let me know, I'm not that far. You can drop me an email anytime you need anything or have a question or two. I have 52TD.

A compression tester can be purchased for about 30 -40 bucks at an auto parts store.

As Franks mentioned, hook up with BK and let him know your info. He has a runing list of T cars that he maintains. Good info to look at and answers some q's.

Cheers.
VWP
V.W. Piņa

This thread was discussed between 06/05/2006 and 08/05/2006

MG TD TF 1500 index

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