MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Re-positioning the Steering Wheel

My steering wheel is 90 degrees out. The PO must have moved it, and the screw that would have secured the center disk has been cut off allowing the center disk to be pressed into place, held by electrical tape! I found this out when the disk just fell into my lap. What is the simplest way to re position the wheel? Is it a case of undoing the big nut behind the center disk, or by loosening the clamp under the dash. Before I just start un-doing things I thought I would ask :-)

I am going to have to drill out the retaining screw as the head is long gone and the shaft is still in the lug that is attatched to the center disk.

Thanks much
Simon

S Griffin

first check that your track rods are adjusted to about the same length. If not then loosen and adjust them 1 turn at a time (one in one out) until they are equal. If the wheel is now in the right place tighten the rods.
If it is nearly right you can fine tune by adjustment of the rods (same way one in one out)until correct. If it is a long way out you can move the shaft round 120deg at the coupling and adjust.
Also the previous owner may have left out the key on the splined wheel shaft. If you loosen the clamp and the wheel will pull straight out then that is what has been done, it is probably a good idea to check that first.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

What about the universal joint that is located in the engine compartment. I know it is only three segments but that may help. Hard to get at I know in a TF.
Byron.
Byron Warwick

Just a little information, on a LHD TF, the bolts to connect the steering shaft to the rack are easier to get at from under the car, a little more wiggle room. Worked for me. PJ
Paul Jennings

Agree. May be easier to simply take the universal joint apart and re position the wheel.
Bruce Cunha

Thanks, universal joint approach seems like the best option. Glad I did not just start undoing nuts behind the wheel!!
S Griffin

There's also a chance that the splined section of the shaft attached to the wheel lacks its key and has been put in a few splines out. I'd check this first, as it is the simplest thing to do.

David
D A Provan

As stated above, the shell is keyed to the column. The adjustment will be at the steering rack to column location OR the pinion is engaged incorrectly with the rack. Regards, Tom
tm peterson

That is why I suggested centralising the rack to check how much it has been messed about with.Once you have a datum you can adjust everything else to it.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

I would center the rack and see where the wheel falls, as well as the tires. It could be that matching but opposite turns on the tie rod ends might do it.
MAndrus

Just following up on my earlier comment, the feather key that locates the splined shaft can easily be removed and, if it is, the shaft does not have a master spline and can be put back in any position. Mine was out by a spline or two when I got it, for this reason. I'd like to hear back from OP on the results of any check on this. 90 degrees out is one hell of a long way for the other maladjustments mentioned.

David
D A Provan

David, I am looking at the exploded diagram on the Moss web site, http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32785

I want to be clear on terminology so that I don't misunderstand anything.

There is a key (8) that is between the wheel and the upper shaft. Then there is another key (7) for the adjusting shaft. Is the adjusting shaft on the moss site what you mean by the splined shaft?

Thanks much
Simon
S Griffin

I just looked at the Abingdon Spares site and see the correct naming convention on it.
S Griffin

To make life more difficult, both the steering box shaft and the tri-lolbe flange have index marks that should line up. Judicious cleaning will reveal them both.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Simon, that's right. 6 is the splined adjusting shaft and 7 is its key. If you just slacken the adjusting bolt, #10, and try to pull the wheel and adjusting shaft right out, you'll know if there is a key in it. If not, you've got the easy fix of lining the wheel up correctly and sliding it in. Finding another key would then be a good idea.

If the key is fitted, you are back with all the other splendid suggestions above. Whatever you adjust, you'll need a proper steering alignment afterwards,

Good luck, David
D A Provan

I did a bit of investigating last evening. Abingdon Spares has a nice tutorial on removing the original steering wheel to replace it with a Brooklands type. In this photo set, the groove on the splined shaft and the key are orientated up with the wheels straight ahead. This is how my car is, the slot for the key is on the top of the splined shaft. The Key is in place, so the easy fix of just pulling the steering wheel out with the shaft and re orientating is not possible.

First of all, does it actually matter that the groove is on top with the wheels ahead? I can see how rotating the universal joint one set of holes would correct my orientation at the steering wheel, but of course the slot and key would no longer be on top.

Looking at the exploded diagrams on the parts lists it appears that the steering wheel is held on by the large nut and that there should be a key correctly aligning it. Is is actually possible to install the steering wheel without the key with an incorrect orientation? I don't especially trust that the PO did things correctly, as I have found several silly omissions like the failure to install the sealing ring on the radiator cap.

Am I thinking this through correctly? I like to get things straight in my head before willy-nilly undoing nuts and bolts. I really appreciate everyone's input.

Thank you.
Simon
S Griffin

No reason the slot has to be up. But you will want to orient it up when placing the key or it will fall out. Yes you need the wheel to shaft key, or there is nothing other than a little taper fit friction to keep the wheel from slipping/spinning on the shaft. Most important thing as noted above is equal length threads on the tie rods and correct toe-in, then go from there. George
George Butz

Thanks, Simon. It is worth checking that the wheel to shaft key is in if you have any doubts, although it won't be easy - a loose steering wheel on the road is the stuff of nightmares. It looks like the other suggestions are now live. If you get the toe-in professionally set, the first thing they do is lock the steering wheel in the correct position and then adjust everything from there. However, if the shaft joint is incorrect, or even the pinion engagement with the rack, that will have to be corrected to allow adjustment. Tom Lange's suggestion of checking alignment marks is a good one.

Sounds, overall, as though your PO had the thing apart and threw it together in a hurry for sale.

David
D A Provan

This thread was discussed between 20/03/2017 and 23/03/2017

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG TD TF 1500 BBS is active now.