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MG TD TF 1500 - Ready to start motor then ...

Hi Guys

I was looking forward to starting the XPAW motor today, after hooking up the battery and connecting wires to starter solinoid, fuel pump, coil and distributor.

Turned motor over with starter and got 60lbs of oil pressure and 100, 60, 60 and 105 cylinder compressions. I know these are not excellent figures but good enough for a motor which hasn't been pulled apart in 20 years and not started for at least 10 years.

Filled and connected a lawn mower fuel tank to the fuel pump.

Then I started filling the radiator, but water was coming out a 1/32" hole in the rear head plate which I thought I had repaired (it is now replaced with a 1/8" steel plate) and weeping out around the edge of most of the new core plugs. The area around the core plug areas was severely corroded and being inexperienced I didn't put any gasket goo behind the plugs when I installed them.

After removing the carbs and inlet and exhaust manifolds, the radiator stay, and disconnected the steering and pushed the steering up out of the way, I hammered the centre of the plugs and slowed the weeping but tomorrow I will need to remove the toe plate/board to get to the rear core plug.

I am thinking I may have to replace the core plugs and reinstal new plugs using gasket goo. (luckily I bought 2 brass sets last year).

Now I am checking for water leaks after every bit of work and before reinstalling manifolds etc.

Does anyone have an alternate suggestion to fixing the leaks?

Thanks

Stuart

ps Sorry for the long post.
Stuart Duncan

Stuart, Best to remove the plugs and install new ones, BUT, using a Dremel tool, or a small rotary wire brush, clean the port holes once the old plugs are out, to bare metal. Apply a very small amount of a gasket sealer, of your choosing, in the grove where the plug sets. I just put some on my finger to wipe in. Install the plugs as per instructions and your good to go. I would let the engine set at least over night before putting any coolant in the system. I like the brass plugs, easier to expand and last forever. I don't use a ball peen hammer, I use a flat end drift the size of a 3/4 inch socket. More even expansion. PJ
P Jennings

Hate to rain on your parade Stuart but the numbers you gave suggest that you've got head gasket problems between 2 and 3. I'd be looking at correcting that before I fired her up.
LaVerne

After thoughly cleaning the lips and using plenty of "Stag" gasket goo inside, I inserted new core plugs (I bought 2 sets from Tom Lang early this year) by giving them one or two hard hits. I then added a smear of goo on the outside of the plugs. No water leaks.

Reinstalled the inlet and exhaust manifolds, and then the firewall and added the fuel pump, coil, an on/off switch and battery.

Switched electics on and pulled starter solenoid and the engine fired almost imeadiately (within 5 sec). Not bad for a motor which hasn't fired for over 10 years.

No oil leaks (other than oil splashing through the XPAW dipstick hole which I need to fill in).

Oil pressure 65-70lbs. A bit of oil smoke coming out of the valve cover breath.

Resleeved brake cylinders should arrive back tomorrow and hopefully I will be driving a chassis around early next week.
Stuart Duncan

Check your compression now after you've run it. If the compression is still low AND equal on # 3 and 4 it's probably a leaking head gasket.(between those 2 cylinders) This happens lots!
What is an XPAW engine?
chuck
cj schmit

Chuck:

XPAW the Wolseley version of the XPAG.

XPAW Wolseley
XPAM Morris
XPAG M(G)

X was the engine style (Morris 'M' 10 hp), P for pushrod, A for the bore and HP (66.5mm, 11 HP), and the last letter for the maker of the car. MG had theirs cast with cool little logos on the side...

Ask Neil Cairns for his write up, it's excellent and fun reading.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

As I am working on the brakes at present, the firewall and all electrics have been removed to make easier access for installation of master cylinder, so the engine has been started for a week or so.

Anyway I now have a new problem - left front stub axle thread is partially stripped, whilst the nut is completely bare. Now to find a replacement stub axle or recut the axle thread with a small diameter die.

Suggestions welcomed!

So my aim of driving the TD chassis before I head off for Christmas holidays in a weeks time is not going to happen. Oh well ...... till next year.

Stuart Duncan

Stuart,
if I remember well, it is left winded thread on the left front axle. Can other BBS friends confirm this? Good that the nut is bare because that is quite easy (not too expensive) to replace.
One way the reach this result is if someone is not aware of the left-theaded situation and tries with a lot of force to unscrew in the normal way. And then, fortunatly, the nut gives up and if you are lucky, the axle is not too damaged. Maybe, with the correct die the axle can be fixed just enough.
How I know? well, have been there!
However, those dies are pretty expensive.
It is a BSF 5/8 x 14 LH
Good luck, huib
Huib Bruijstens

Stuart and anyone else that might be interested.

During my refurbishment of my MG I had to purchase a set of 5/8 x 14 LH & RH dies. Both front axel's needed help. They were a bit pricey. If anyone wants to borrow them it would be my pleasure to mail them to you.
You can contact me off line if you wish.
Mort

PS. I also have available a 12mm reamer. Used once during the installation of my 5 speed tranny.

I also have a stripped front axel if it is advisable to turn it down to a smaller diameter?????
Mort 1950 TD Möbius

This thread was discussed between 22/11/2011 and 08/12/2011

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