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MG TD TF 1500 - Rear Shocks

I have had my 52 TD less than a year and before I tear into it, I want to be sure of what I am doing and looking for. The bushings in the shock link and in the shock absorber arm are worn. They are worn to the point that only about 1/4" of the top of the shock link is in the shock absorber arm. If I replace the bushings, should I replace the shock link also? And if I replace the bushings, will I need any special tools to press out the old bushings and press in the new?
In the Moss catalog it refers to Armstrong and Girling shocks. What are the differences and how can I tell what kind of shocks are on my TD?
I will appreciate any help with the shocks that I can get.
Jeff McWhirter

Jeff - the shock link does not need to be replaced when you are replacing the bushing unless the bushing at the lower end of the link is shot also. You do need a cone shaped guide piece that fits over the end of the link to make it easier to get the end of the link into the new bushing. I had one made for me by a local machinest and can send you a picture and diminisions if you want to make one yourself. The easiest way to differentiate between Girling and Armstrong shocks is that Girlings are made with cast iron whereas the Armstrongs are aluminum. If you want to get the shocks overhauled/restored, the best place to send them is to World Wide Auto Parts, att. Peter Caldwell. They do a good job and stand behind their work 100%. Their web site is at: http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/
Good luck - Dave
David DuBois

I guess I should have made myself clearer, the bushing at the top and the bottom of the link are worn out.
Jeff McWhirter

Presuming rear shocks- Girlings have a horizontal body with big screw plugs in the end and a large hex cap on top, and Armstrongs verticle body with a small filler plug on top, and another small plug at the bottom. The Girlings have one bushing pressed into the shock arm, and the other is part of the link. The Armstrongs have both rubber parts in the link. So, if Girlings, both the shock and link need repair, if Armstrong, only the link. The Girling links seem to separate, so you can drill a small hole near the end of the link ( or lower pin), and install a thin washer with a cotter pin to keep together. Not original, but the orig. design not too smart. In my free opinion, send them out to have the bushings changed.
George Butz

As you can see, I need all the help I can get. What is the best way to get the tension off the shock so I can remove the shock link and replace the bushings? And since I am replacing the bushings, should I go ahead and replace the shocks?
Jeff McWhirter

There is no tension on a shock absorber. It is purely a damping device. It internally contains a crank hooked up to a piston running in a cylinder filled with oil, with a controlled leakage rate, hence damping spring oscillations. So, remove the link and move the shock arm up and down. It should be rather stiff, but move without jerking or much slack. If it has no resistance, there is probably no oil and it has a leak. You cannot buy new Girling shocks, and it is cheaper to rebuild than to buy new Armstrongs. Apple Hydraulics rebuilt my rear ones, a couple years later one started to leak, and they rebuilt it for free (without me even asking).
George Butz

This thread was discussed between 12/10/2003 and 13/10/2003

MG TD TF 1500 index

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