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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Removed Engine

I was able to get the engine out yesterday.

Anybody care to give me advise on the engine rebuild?

I’m planning on:

Moss forged crank
New cam
JE custom pistons
Crower custom rods (floating piston pin)
Solid copper head gasket
J&M machine in Southbough MA will do the build as they do great work and did the head last year




Steve Averka

Don't forget to use new cam followers and use a ZZDP suplement such as EOS engine oil supplement as sold by your local GM dealer for the critical break-in period. It does not hurt to continue using EOS afterwards far a few thousand miles.
Sandy
SANDY SANDERS

Be a good time to consider Len Fanelli's rocker arm lifters with rollers.


Dallas Congleton

I talked to Len yesterday.

He is in the process of having a new batch made up. They won't be ready for 2 or 3 months so I might be a little early. They do look like a real nice set up.


Steve
Steve Averka

2 or 3 months go very quickly during a rebuild/refit....everything takes time....I would go for Len's and do the wait....
gblawson(gordon- TD27667)

That would be a roller lifter cam kit, no lifter wear, & more performance than a flat lifter cam of the same duration!
Len Fanelli

That looks like a nice set up. I'd consider talking to Manley Ford. I'm doing my 1500 block with his setup (similar to yours only with MGB rod spec rod journals that have more surface area and greater bearing availability). It's about the same only the crank is billet. The Moss crank is just fine too. I'd recomend Len's cam if for no other reason than the lack of lifter wear. I'm aiming for the better performance promised.

Alex
ABW Waugh

Steve sounds like a good setup to me. I have Crower Rods and Venolia Pistons in mine with a new crank. Still thinking about Len's cam..
Tom Maine (TD8105)

Steve, looks like you will be replacing you core plugs. Make sure that your rebuild guy DOES NOT use Moss's steel core plugs. Archives full of horror stories concerning these plugs. The guy who rebuilt my engine used them. Just got my engine started last week and four of them leak. I am going to replace all of them myself with brass plugs. I have just emailed Tom Lange up in Maine to see what he gets for a set. John 54TF
J Ostergren

John: This is exactly why I had these core plugs made up in brass for T-series owners. As you have demonstrated, the steel ones can - and do - rust through in very short time, even when bought from relatively reliable sources. My brass core plugs will fit perfectly, will never rust, and will last as long as your engine rebuild. They are very cheap economy.

Since you asked, I sell complete and correct sets of all 9 core plugs in brass for $30, including priority shipping within the US. Two sets are $55, three are $80. For order outside the US, please contact me.

Tom Lange
236 Knox Road
Bar Harbor, ME 04609-7730
t lange

John

Gee, one of the minor reasons I pulled the engine was my Moss core plugs are starting to rot away from the inside out.

The one on the left started to leak as I was trying to adjust my carbs last week. But they are 15 years old.

Tom I didn’t know you were making them out of brass I’d like two sets. Do I just put a check in the mail?


Steve

52 MGTD MKII
56 AH 100M


Steve Averka

Tom, mine was not a rust problem but rather ill fitting and poorly installed (IMHO) core plugs from Moss. They were put in during a rather expensive engine rebuild. I am going to replace all of them.

Checks in the mail.... John 54TF
J Ostergren

Tom, I just sent you an email. PJ
P S Jennings

This thread was discussed between 03/10/2010 and 09/10/2010

MG TD TF 1500 index

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