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MG TD TF 1500 - Removing Distributor

Hi,
I am in the process of dismantling a ’51 TD that has been sitting for quite some time according to the previous owner. I loosened the clamp bolt on the distributor and the distributor will not move/turn to remove it from the block. It appears to be frozen in the block.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to free it up?

Best regards,
Michael O’Brien
Michael O'Brien

Mike,

Try a 50/50 mixture of ATF and acetone, liberal dousing the area and let it sit for several hours. Then tap on the sides and bottom of the distributor and try to twist it. It may take several attempts before it loosens and starts to move,
Gene Gillam

Gene,

Thank you for your comment. What is ATF?

Michael
Michael O'Brien

ATF Automatic Transmission Fluid. I keep a 50/50 mixture of ATF and acetone in an oil can and use it as penetrating fluid. It works well, and is cheap.
-David
D. Sander

The distributor tubes do loosen from the pot metal body if you are not careful where you tap, so be careful. When things have penetrated, you might try tightening the clamp on the distributor again, and tapping on the clamp arm through which the distributor attachment bolt fits. That puts no strain on the distributor body. Once there is even the slightest movement in the bore, the distributor can be twisted and will come out.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Sometimes, better to let a sleeping dog lie. Do you really have to pull it now? If you're parting it out or executing a complete teardown for a rebuild, that's one thing. If you're doing a teardown, you might have better luck drifting it out from below after the oil pump is removed.

If you are just going to lube the cylinders and fire it up, maybe postpone the removal, indefinitely. After it runs many times, the thermal cycling and lubrication from below, should reduce the risks of catastrophic destruction later on.

As a last resort, I'd play a small propane torch on the distributor casting only where it's inserted in the block, for about 5 minutes. The thermal expansion will be restrained by the block, and it will yield a touch and shrink down after it cools completely. For those paranoid about a catastrophic meltdown, a noncontact infrared thermometer can be had from Harbor Freight for $11; that's cheaper than a tempil stick! I'd estimate heating below 500F would be pretty conservative.

I get customers hydraulic cylinders in where the aluminum gland is hopelessly corroded into the barrrel. Often, I leave the gland in place, cut the back end of the cylinder off, disassemble the piston & rods, reassemble, and then reweld the end back on. Sometimes, ya gotta do, what ya gotta do!
JIM NORTHRUP SR

Do you have the early type mount with the external pinch/clamp bold and the lower bolt that bolts the clamp to the block? If you do, you can remove the bolt that bolts the clamp into the block and remove the dizzy with the clamp in place. Much eaiser to spread and loosen the clamp on the bench. If the penetrant does not work, this may be the way to go. George
George Butz

George - Michael does have the earlier type, but the shaft of the distributor is frozen in the block, not in the clamp. He has already removed the lock bolt.

Tom Llange
MGT Repair
t lange

This thread was discussed between 04/08/2013 and 05/08/2013

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG TD TF 1500 BBS is active now.