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MG TD TF 1500 - Repairing the metal

Hello everyone,

It's been a while since my first post "the journey begins 1954 TF #1414 / 30748" but *finally* getting the process started on the tear down.

Heading everyone's advice, I've been taking lots of pictures, documenting where parts go, etc. Plan to make a photo journal book with "chapter" tabs of different sections of the car that was taken off to use for reference. To date, most all of the large chrome is off the car except what is attached to the tub so I can send to get re-chomed. All the wings are off the car and pretty much what is left that is atttached on the car is the body tub and the engine. There's lots of freakin' bolts on these cars!

So far everything has been going smoothly. The car has been garaged idle in a dry storage since '87 in my mom's gararge and before that in CT where my grandad owned the car in 1957. I don't think this car seen any winter driving with salt on the roads here in New England by the evidence seen on the frame and bolts -- lots of oil though from the oil leaks!!. There were some stubborn nuts and bolts but with a little heat and some penetrating oil, most all the hardware came off would be re-usable.

Inspection of the gas tank revealed it was parked dry or the gas evaporated what was left little in the tank. Pointing a flash light in the filler hole showed just light surface rust and no sediment on the bottom of the tank which is very good news. I was relieved. The tank will be dipped and treated.

The only bolts that were the most trouble to remove and not salvageable where the three bolts that attach the rear running board that go through the wood bottom main rail. Removing the running board showed the only major rust on the car. Most likely from water being trapped between the piping and the metal.

Eventually all the metal to the tub will be removed but in this case where this needs to be repaired would it be good advice the repair this infected metal sections under the door sill BEFORE any other dismantling is done to the tub so you can use the original wood as a guide to get the correct metal profile and curves?

My logic and thinking says I should but wanted to ask here first and read what advice you posters suggest.

I attached a picture.

Thanks, Frank



Frank Cronin

A close up where the hole where the bolt that goes through running board to the body. This is the hole that goes in the middle of the three bolts that are used.

Prodding with a screw driver shows the wood is still hard and does not flake. Sure more will be revealed when the metal is taken off but I think is a good sign.


Frank Cronin

My last pic of the rear bolt closest to the rear wing. Both sides will need to be repaired but right side of the car is more severe than the left.


Frank Cronin

I hope you are a good sheet-metal guy!....
You will know more after you sand/blast the paint off...Will you repair the old panels, or replace?
What's the wood like underneath?.....
I can't believe how lucky I was with "Rocky's" wood and metal parts...I only had two small rust areas to repair, and no wood replacement.
Good luck, and keep us posted with progress reports.
Edward




E.B. Wesson

Lift the tub off and put it on a level work surface. Others suggest some supports be added when you take it off. I did not do that and had no issues.

Taking it off will make it much easier to get to both sides. This looks like a pretty flat panel, so should be an easy fix.
Bruce Cunha

Hi Edward,
Your's looks pretty good in the quarter panels, compared to what mine was. take a look at <http://www.boatanchors.org/mgtf.htm>, about 1/3 the way down, and you'll see what we uncovered, and my fix to the wood. The body guy did magic on the metal, cut, patched in new portions. No plastic filler, just good metalwork on his part, don't ask me how, but a lot of wet sanding of the primer to get it smooth.
Al
54 TF, Emma
A W Parker

Frank

I am at the same stage with my low mileage 1954 TF. Unfortunately my car has more metal work and wood work to do even though it has been stored inside a good deal of its life in Oklahoma and Texas before coming to British Columbia in 1980 and being dry stored inside. So far I have made up new inner rear fender wells and using heavy card stock have made patterns for the rear quarters. I did this prior to removing the quarter panels and so far have one patch panel made up and will be welding it in shortly. The front quarter panel has larger rust holes than yours but again these are pretty straight forwrd to make. I would suggest leaving them in place until you have made up patterns and then do one at a time. I know many do it in place but don't like the chance of burning the dry wood in behind the metal.

I have a lot of wood to replace but nothing that should create a big problem.

Brian


Brian Smith (1950 TD3376)

Hello Frank. Scanning your photo's takes me back in time when I commenced re-conditioning a 1954 T.F. ( off frame ),which now is in its final stage of completion . To achieve the expectations I set-forth necessitated replacing all the wood, front and rear quarter panels ,floors,and as well major repair of the side panels ,doors etc,etc,etc. Even the sub-frame which supports the tub was replaced. Your T.F. seemingly from the photo's will not require major operations (sort of speak ). Yes, I would concur with you to remove the tub from the frame, which will permit a more detailed assessment of the condition of the car. However, I do question your rational for suggesting (if I understood you correctly) removal all of the tub metal. The objective I believe, in re-conditioning old vehicles is to preserve as much as the original structure as possible . There are many alternatives or designs that are applicable in repairing you T.F. Good Luck John
J .R.C Cavey

I have been thinking for quite some time about this very question. I am hoping to repair the same area on my TD tub over the Christmas break. I am thinking that it seems wise to repair the rusted out areas that go from the running board down while the old wood is in place. But, the wood under the door area is badly rotted. I am not 100% certain that there is enough sound wood left to allow getting the shape correct. One positive thing is that it doesn't matter if I char the wood a bit during the welding as it must be replaced anyway. I have removed the tub and have redone the chassis at this point. Is it better to remount the tub on the chassis before cutting out the rotten metal and replacing it or not? I am concerned about potential door alignment issues etc.

Also, I have been told by at least one body man that you can lap the joint when you patch the sheet metal. But, I don't like that idea much. Seems like that would be a good place for moisture to collect. How hard is it to control the warping if I butt weld the joint with short tacks, stitching it together a little at a time? I have access to a very good MIG machine and my welding skills are fairly good but, I haven't done much body and fender work. Most of the repaired area will be located under the running board so it shouldn't be very visible. Although the repair will probably begin about an inch above the running board. Suggestions welcomed.

Thanks,

Kirk
Kirk Trigg

Hello Kirk. Prior to contemplating repair procedures , it must be determined firstly the extent of deterioration of the main rails.This will be the governing factor. Given the assumption that wood rot is localized to just a part of the main rail then the repair procedure would not present much difficulty. As one alternative splicing-in a new section of main rail and fabricating a metal cap. designed to minimize the but welding, just may suffice. However, if the main rails are severely deteriorated then major surgery will be required . Keep us posted on your progress. John
J .R.C Cavey

This thread was discussed between 01/12/2012 and 02/12/2012

MG TD TF 1500 index

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