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MG TD TF 1500 - Replacing rear Armstrong shock links

My rebuild has extended over 40m years. I vaguely remember back in 1984 in Wisconsin that the rubbers in the rear shock links needed replacing.
I had noticed a squeak when driving and it was the links backing out of the rubbers.
I remember try ing too find new rubbers for the links back then but noting was available and what I found did not fit/
I order two complete link assemblies from Abingdon.
They can be made to go in but they are very different from what came out.

In the collage below, the top left shows the old (red) and new (black) shocks. The neon has a tapered upper fastener and not castigated, cotter nut. The bolt on the bottom is 1/2 thread and not 7/16. While the top link fastener nut is BSF 7/16 the bottom fits AF-3/4. 18 mm is too small and I don't have a 20 mm. BSF-1/2 is too loose. AF-3/4 is fine.
The upper fastener taper section seems to extend through the Shock lever arm a bit. I felt I needed to add a washer to take up the distance.

Finally note the length of the threads sticking out of the shock arm. *upper right frame). These will need to be cut off. If not they will hit the inner fender on a hard bounce.


Not exactly plug and play!!

Jim B.



JA Benjamin

Hi Jim,

I think the links are unique to TDs and TFs. I fitted brand new MGB shocks to the rear of my TF (only had to bush out the fixing holes) and thought I could use B links as well since they are much cheaper. Unfortunately though the threaded parts are on opposite sides. I tried to remove the straight pin and turn it round but it will not push out. I then cut the links, placed a sleeve over the two ends and welded them in the correct orientation. Just after this two NOS links appeared on eBay and I managed to buy these. After two years though the rubber in one of the ball joints is perishing. This shows that NOS rubber components can be a bad buy. Ruber just does not last, even when stored on a shelf. I am also not a fan of reconditioned shocks. The main shaft wears where the seals in the main body rub on it. The only way to sort this is with a new shaft and I don't think they are available. Replacement seals will soon start to leak again. That's why I went for brand new MGB items

Jan T
J Targosz

Sounds like a great idea - my rear shocks are not in great condition so may try it. There is no reason for rubber items to be poor quality and short-lived, other than being made cheaply and without the quality assurance requirements of a major manufacturer.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Hi Dave,

The B shocks look identical to the TF ones apart from larger fixing bolt holes. My car runs really smoothly with them and no one would be able to see they are new ones. If you get hold of some and don't have a lathe let me know and I will turn up some bushes for you. It only takes minutes.

Re the links I wonder if polyurethane casting resin is availabe so the original ones can be reconditioned?

Cheers

Jan
J Targosz

Jan,
It is available but you need the right shore grade. I have made loads of bushes in the past. You really need a vacuum pump though to get the air bubbles out. The one on the right is a tie bar bush for a Morris Minor. The silicone mould is on the left.
Regards
Declan


Declan Burns

Thanks Jan, but I do have a lathe and can turn the bushes myself. PU bushes also make sense, but I imagine the vac pump as Declan says, is essential if to make good ones.
Dave H
Dave Hill

How low does the vac need to go? What about a box connected to my workshop industrial Vax machine?

Jan
J Targosz

Jan,
I doubt it as you need 5 … 6 cfm (140l/h) and a vacuum pressure 28 … 29"hg (-0.9mbar).

Regards
Declan
Declan Burns

I am still concerned about the fit of the new Links in the Armstrong shock lever arms.
Although the end of the stud on the lever arm side Dows measure about 9/16, which is close to the diameter of the old ones, the length of that diameter is very short. Only about 1/8". This very give little bearing surface.
I did tighten the nut quit tight but I am worried about egg shaping the lever arm hole.

I looked at the usual sources, Moss, B&G and NTG, and they all seem to have a similar link. I noted that NTG sells a (rebuilt) link for the "Y" type which looks similar to mine but not as long. I contacted Paul at NTG and they can rebuild mine for about $50 each.

Now I have had another plan. My front shocks originally had one Armstrong and one GIrling . I removed the Armstrong and Installed a working Girling. I have always felt that I should have 4 Girlings and to that end I purchased a set of used ones on eBay, in need of rebuild.
The Armstrongs I have seem to be OK so I never followed through. Perhaps it's time to bite the bullet and instead of paying $100 for rebuilt links to get the Girlings rebuilt and get the proper links for the.

So a couple of questions then;
1) Are my old links "correct" or odd balls?

2) Wold you get them rebuilt or install freshly rebuilt Girlings?

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

Hi Jim,

If you are going to get old shocks rebuilt ask the repair shop what they are going to do with the main shafts. These don't wear in the housing but go rusty where the seals fit. Just replacing seals is a waste of time, they will start to leak again within months and I don't think new shafts are available. I have brand new MG B ones on the rear of my TF and I rebuilt the front ones myself. The casings at the front have long bearing bores and I was able to machine a little off the housing for the seal so it dropped in further and now runs on a clean bit of shaft.

Jan
J Targosz

Hi Jim,

If you are going to get old shocks rebuilt ask the repair shop what they are going to do with the main shafts. These don't wear in the housing but go rusty where the seals fit. Just replacing seals is a waste of time, they will start to leak again within months and I don't think new shafts are available. I have brand new MG B ones on the rear of my TF and I rebuilt the front ones myself. The casings at the front have long bearing bores and I was able to machine a little off the housing for the seal so it dropped in further and now runs on a clean bit of shaft.

Jan
J Targosz

I don't know about the Armstrongs but if you want to repair the Girlings on the front you can fit two 19x30x6mm standard lipseals on one side and two 17x30x6mm on the other side. This gives a total depth of 12mm which is normally beyond the pitted area. The housing metal is quite soft. I have heard of the use of 30mm Forstner woodworking bits being used to machine out some metal so that the seal runs on the shaft beyond the rusted/pitted part.
On the rear Girlings you can use two 17x29x5mm+ a new core plug which I think was 29mm.

Regards
Declan



Declan Burns

Hi Declan,

It's great to see someone who actually knows what a Forstner bit is! I was going to make up a suitable cutter - a simple pilot shaft with two scraper blades would have done but found one of the cutters used to form the hole for sunk in kitchen door hinges was the right size. Like the Forstner they have a parallel section the size of the hole and this located the tool perfectly.

Jan
J Targosz

The red links are Girling, and the black Armstrong- totally different. I think the hole in the Girling arm is straight, while it is tapered in the Armstrong arm. Likely the hole in the Armstrong shock arm was drilled out to fit the Girling link, which results in the correct Armstrong link not fitting correctly. Suggest send Girlings and links to Peter at World Wide for rebuild. You will not believe the difference in ride. Sorry I took so long to answer but was off the grid for a few days. George
George Butz III

This thread was discussed between 09/07/2019 and 15/07/2019

MG TD TF 1500 index

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