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MG TD TF 1500 - Restoring 1954 TF that hasn't been run in 10 years
I'm restoring a 54 TF that has been sitting for 10 years. I'd start and run engine 2 or 3 times a year until about 5 years ago. Then I'd turn the engine over by starter and later by hand once a year. About 3 months ago I shot penetrating oil in cylinders and turned engine over a few revolutions by hand a few times a week apart. Then recently I installed new starter, and cranked engine over with starter after squrting penetrating oil in cylinders and around upper valve stems. Continued long enough so that engine oil is flowing thru valve rocker-arm oil holes. Am installing new gas pump now, and will try to start and run engine with car up on blocks. I intend to run engine at idle RPM for a short time to warmup block, assuming it will start. Then I will shut it down and drain oil; put in new filter and a flush weight oil. Will run it for 10 or 15 minutes and repeat flush weight oil change. After 15 minutes or so I will put in light weight oil, say 10W. Am concerned I may have to rebuild (or at least clean) the carbs before engine will start. Does anyone have any experience/suggestions/advice for what I am intending to do to get the engine running again??? |
Alan Jacobsen |
Hi Alan, you will need to drain the old petrol out I would think after this period of time, and pump the new petrol through by disconnecting the fuel line to the carbies and draining the old stuff into a bottle or something. The carbies will flood as the floats will be stuck down. After this it should fire up. Good luck, Paul. |
Paul van Gool |
My car (50 TD) had been sitting for about ten years as well. The fuel in the carb float bowls had so hardened that the floats would not release. I ended up having to buy new floats (ouch!). |
Robert |
Also drain coolant, flush, change hoses, change thermostat- as it will be a gunky, stuck, corroded mess, and the aluminum outlet elbow will be eaten through. Unscrew the block water drain, and back-flush- the bottom of the block is no doubt full of rusty gunk. Change flex fuel line copper to carb, carb to carb. Carb seals will probably be shot and leak a lot.Check wiring harness for rot/rodent damage, have battery cable loose (or cut-off switch) in case of smoke/fire. Put the car outside in an open area, have fire extinguisher/hose ready just in case. Good luck! |
George Butz |
Alan, George is right about the carb seals. These dry out quickly when not in regular contact with fuel, and apart from fuel leaking out of the bottom of the carbs onto the exhaust will leak into the carb intake throats, making tuning virtually impossible. I would remove, strip and clean the carbs thoroughly first, and put in all new seals and gaskets. Soak the cork seals in a light machine oil for a few days before fitting. Set the jets by screwing the adjuster right up, and backing off two complete turns, should fire up okay after that. Good luck, AB |
Adrian Bennett |
This thread was discussed between 15/06/2002 and 17/06/2002
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