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MG TD TF 1500 - Reviving my 1952 TD

Going to start getting my 52 up & running. Any tips or hints?

http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1535176

Many of have may remember me and have seen this car. I have been busy with the GT and now want to get this girl up & out.


I have a general list of where to start but am looking for a few specifics.

Engine - Type/grade of oil to use.
Trans - Type/grade of oil to use.
Rear - Type/grade of oil to use.
Brakes - Need to order all rebuild kits, incl, master.
Shoes and drums are in excellent shape. Hoses I need to inspect.
Clutch - MC - Need to rebuild potentially. Does it have a slave?

Plugs & wires. What kind & where to get.
I think I have a new coil, rotor & cap.
Gotta see if I have points.
Rebuilt fuel pump and have a new one.

Gas line is clogged. What can I use for new one.

Carbs need to be taken apart & inspected.

Tank needs to come off to get cleaned, boiled, etched & sealed.

Tires & wheels. I think I need 1 rim, slotted steel if anybody has one. What are tire recommendations.

Top. Mine is gone. Any one have a tattered om used one. I am not particular but will want to have it in case it rains.

I know it is a lot of q's to ask so bear with me.

Thanks
Vince
V.W. Piņa

In case anyone would like to email me, here it is.
V
V.W. Piņa

Engine: 20/50 wt, any brand, trans: 90wt, see the archives about additives/type; rear end- same as trans.;Brakes: need to make sure cylinders are rebuildable- many pit/corrode and are not, can have sleeved or replaced; The clutch is mechanical with no cylinders, unless someone modified your car;gas line- Moss or Abingdon spares stock new ones (the long copper one?), used to be really cheap;carbs- either do them yourself, or send to John Twist (University Motors) for rebuild. Others have used other rebuilders. Top- the vinyl ones are cheapest. This should get you started. Tires: search archives- many discussions- I personally think Michelin XZX best (have to get from Coker Tire), but many now like the Kuhmo's (much cheaper).George
George Butz

Vince,

The first thing you neeed to do is order a Workshop Manual from Moss Motors... The specs and a wealth of information is available in that book... Also, the absolute BEST source of help is on this web site... Use the BBS Archives for your search to technical questions on all subjects related to these wee cars... There are those who have "been there - done that" and have recorded their efforts for the rest of us to use as a welcome "guide"... Just don't be surprised when it takes longer and costs more than your best guess..

Cheers,

Rod Macleod - TF 1500 - HDB46/6798 ("Molly")
Rod Macleod

Vince,

If you are heading towards starting your engine, you will (probably) need to build oil pressure after the oil change. Your car may or may not have an oil primer on the pump. To build oil pressure, remove the spark plugs. Check with a handcrank to see if the engine turns over. Then remove the valve cover and the side cover and oil the valve train and the tappets. You will need to replace the valve and side cover gaskets, so order those first. Then squirt some oil down each spark plug hole. Turn the engine by hand a few times again. (Absent a crank, you can push the car with the transmission in gear to see if the engine turns over, and to pre-lube the engine.) With the ignition off, turn the engine over with the starter (transmission in neutral, don't hold the clutch in) and see if the gauge registers. If it doesn't, AND you don't have an oil primer on the pump, prime the lower oil galley through the location where the oil pipe which goes to the head connects, and then crank the engine backwards. You can do this by jacking up one side of the rear of car, putting it in fourth gear and turning a rear wheel backwards. Repeat until spinning the engine on the starter gives you oil pressure. You are looking for 30 psi on a tired engine, and 60 on a good rebuild at cranking speed with the spark plugs out.

Then you can continue by checking compression, tackling the carbs, and working on fuel delivery. You can run a temporary fuel line to the fuel pump if you want to work on the engine in your shop while you have the fuel tank out for cleaning.

welcome to the forum,
dave
Dave Braun

Been here for some time. I've got a few MG's and the TD has been mine for about 4 years. I did exactly what you wrote and added oil to the cyls when I got her. Turned by hand every day just to make sure but other than the paint being a little beat up she was well preserved & taken care of. When I cranked I got about 50 psi. so I know the engine is OK.

Gotta see what I have in parts and take it from there. Was hoping there were some old parts setting around member garages that are just taking up space.
V.W. Piņa

Sorry Vince, I thought your name sounded familiar, but your question was such that I thought perhaps I was mistaken and erred on the side of caution (I had visions of internal parts grinding away sans lubrication).

Sounds like you have a lot of fun ahead of you. Enjoy!

dave
Dave Braun

Started to rain here and had a crown fall out that I had to have reinstalled. HOLY $$$$. Now I am broke but still thinking positively.

I cannot move the B out to get to the TD until the rain stops. Hopefully I'll have an update real soon.
V.W. Piņa

This thread was discussed between 11/09/2006 and 14/09/2006

MG TD TF 1500 index

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