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MG TD TF 1500 - Right Front Brakes

The right front brake keeps getting tight on my 51 TD. I assume it is the return springs but first I went to check the adjusters. The factory shop manual says "rotate the drum until both adjustment screws are visible through the holes provided" I only have one hole on my brake drum. The factory shop manual shows 2 Which is correct? Also I do not have a wheel hub puller. Any suggestions?. I think there was a thread that addressed that but I can not find it. Any suggestions on taking off the drum with out damaging it or should I go spent $115.00 for a wheel puller?

When I backed off the adjuster to free up the wheel I then applied the brakes and the drum would be locked up. That is why I am thinking it is the return springs.

I was so hoping to take Sir Scotty out for a drive today but I guess that is out of the question.

Thanks.... David...
David Honness

There is one hole...you back off one adjuster, then rotate the drum and back off the other. It is pretty easy with the right wheel puller...make sure the 'claws' are sharp and angled a bit...!
gblawson (gordon)- TD#27667

I would replace the front brake hoses.. they have a habit of closing up internally.
You can check for this by applying the brakes and let go . if the wheel is still stuck break open the bleeder and if it releases you will know for certain that it is the hose.
Sandy Sanders

David, you could be right about the return springs, but it also could be the wheel cylinder starting to tighten up due to corrosion between the piston and the cylinder. Regards, Richard.
R Payne

David,

While I haven't pulled a drum on TeDdy yet, I've always been able to pull drums by backing the adjusters off completely first and then just pulling the drum. Sometimes a little coaxing from a rubber-faced hammer was necessary to convince the drum I was serious. I think there was one exception - and I rented a puller from New River Valley Rent-all. Beats buying one for $115. I don't use pullers often enough to justify buying one - yet...

Cheers,
Allen
Allen Bachelder

I welded up a drum puller from a few pieces of angle iron and a big bolt/nut. has always worked like a charm. If you were closer I'd loan it to you.

Cheers,

Bob
R. K. (Bob) Jeffers

David H.
Having recently gone throuh the same frustrating problem you described I agree with Sandy's remedy. I found that one of my rubber hoses had shut down to the extent that the master cylinder pressure would push fluid into the wheel cylinder but the return springs, even though in perfect condition, did not have enough power to return the fluid. After removing the rubber hose I couldn't force a stiff 1/16" dia. wire through. A new hose cured the problem completely. Relacing it was much easier than opening the wheel cylinder.

Good luck,
George
GF Metz

Where else but here would one learn about something as arcane as internally collapsing brake lines? I need to start writing this stuff down in a note book. Thanks to all. Paul.
P.W. Lester

FYI. After 30 plus years working with MG's Jags etc I have never run into a weak spring.
Sandy
Sandy Sanders

While we are on the subject of brake hoses on the T's, I have some NOS lines, never used. Is it the brake fluid over the years or just plain age that causes the collapsing problem?
Jim Merz

Found claw and bolt-on pullers (Google) for $50. Have never been able to remove any TD drum without puller (front). Some very early TD drums (the two piece hub/drums) do have two holes, later ones just one. 50/50 hose or sticking corroded cylinders. George
George Butz

Our local Advance Auto Parts and AutoZone stores have FREE loaner tools. the usually charge a deposit which is refunded when the tool is returned. Beats buying a puller by a long shot.
John Masters

Thanks guys, your suggestions have helped.

I took the car out for a drive and the brakes were fine after adjusting them. Then the pedal went high and a little later medium (where it usually is) and then after many more stops high again. I agree that it is probably the hoses. I will go in that direction and then look at the wheel cylinders after that.

I sometimes get frustrated when I take one of may cars out and something goes wrong when I plan on a fun drive. You would think that after owning British cars for over 45 years I would learn. I am gun shy on doing more than I need to. Sometimes it is the simplest thing. One time I thought the bottom end was going bad in my MGA roadster so I pulled the engine (and transmission) to do a rebuild on it. Nothing was wrong in the bottom and the piston cylinders had minor scrapes. After I took off the fan belt I found out that it was the harmonic balancer rivits came loose. Oh well, the engine was out so I had a "B" engine built and put that in. More money than I wanted to spend but a lot more pleasurable now driving the "A".
Thanks again.. Happy MGing
Cheers,
David..
David Honness

P.S,

If anyone is looking for a nice MGA Coupe mine is for sale on the classified section.

David....
David Honness

David, you can check to see whether it is the hose or a sticking cylinder by opening the bleed nipple. If the hose is blocked, there will be a release of fluid as the piston returns. If the hose is ok and the piston is stuck, there should be little or no fluid.
Regards, Richard.
R Payne

Richard,

Thanks.. I'll try that.

Happy MGind

David......
David Honness

This is great stuff. I thought that I was the only one with internally colapsing brake hoses on my MGB five years ago. It took me a long time to figure it out, but it appears that it is a common failure. I wish I had this information back then as it would have saved alot of frustrating time. I'm interested if it could be a PO that had changed the system over to silicone, and the combination caused the failure?
Cheers, Bob
Robert Finucane

Just old hoses.... my mechanic has to change them on cars all the time...no matter the fluid. They act like a one way valve...!!!
gblawson (gordon)- TD#27667

This thread was discussed between 01/03/2008 and 03/03/2008

MG TD TF 1500 index

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