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MG TD TF 1500 - Rim Band Advice Required

I have just purchased Five new wire wheels for my 1955 mgtf 1500. These are 48 spoke painted wheels per the original factory option for the car. They require the use of tubes as the spokes are not sealed. I have Two questions:

1] Any advice on sealing the spoke ends (nipples) to stop ingress of water between the rim and the tube and eliminate potential corrosion of the spoke nipples and steel rim. What type of sealer is recommended, if any? If an adhesive is recommended per question Two the sealant and adhesive must be compatible

2] I purchased rubber Rim Bands from Moss to protect the tubes but they have a habit of slipping from the flange where the spokes terminate into the well of the rim. Is some form of adhesive recommended to keep the bands in place as the tires are mounted?

Wheels, tires and new splined hubs is a substantial investment so I want to get everything right first time

Thanks for any advice or experience you may wish to pass on, even if it is a 'don't do'. I took one wheel to have the tire mounted and the shop held the rim band in place with duct tape on the vertical surface. Of course it wrinkled - definitely a 'don't do'. I now have to remove the tire, clean up the rim and start again. Fortunately I only let the local shop mount and balance one wheel to test their capability to handle wire wheels.

A member of our local MG Club manufactured a fixture to mount the wheel on the correct concentric machined surfaces for balancing on a modern balancing machine so the balancing process worked well

1955 MGTF 1500 9194
I Massey

For the rim bands on our MGB with new wires, tires and tubes I used a full wrap of Black Gorilla tape, if I remember correctly, it was 2 inches wide. not only did it protect the tubes, but it kept any water out also. 5 years later no problems. Check with Alan Hendrix of Hendrix Wire Wheel, I don't think he uses the rubber bands either. PJ
Paul161

I just called MOSS Technical Support and asked about my Rim Band issue and was surprised by their response:

They stated that with their current 48 Spoke painted wheels they sell (Moss part 454-610) no Rim Band is required. This is even though the Spoke Nipples are not covered. Obviously I questioned the Tech guy a few times but he was adamant that the wheels were ready 'as supplied' to mount the tubes without any cover or Rim Band over the Nipples

He stated he would speak to Moss Marketing to clarify this issue as the original factory supplied wheels did require a Rim Band but the modern equivalent supplied to Moss from MWS do not. The Moss technical guy also stated that there are water seals under the Nipple heads. These ar not designed to be air-tight seals for Tubless Tires

Next Step - To reconfirmed by contacting MWS

The 60 Spoke wheels have a fused Rim Band fitted as they are designed to run Tubless Tires

Another learning experience!

1955 MGTF 1500 9194
I Massey

If you use tape as a rim band, be sure to wind it such than when the car rolls forward, it tends to tighten the wrap. I mistakenly wrapped it the wrong way only to find about 10 feet of tape trailing behind the car as it had unwound and found its way between the rim and tire.
Lew3

I suppose you could use some liquid silicone to try and keep the moisture out of the threads. You might inquire if the spokes are mild steel or if they are painted stainless along with the nipples. If they are stainless then I wouldn't worry about it. I'm a believer in the rubber rim bands. They work well and last a long time. I would recommend you apply a thin layer of silicone on the inside of the hub where the spokes enter. It will prevent the grease from the splines from coming out and making a mess of your pretty wheels. Same on the back of the hub to but it isn't critical there. I prefer to use anti size paste instead of grease on the spline and threads. Make sure that you or your tire shop grinds or removes the tags from inside the tires or they will puncture your tubes in short order. I would also highly suggest that the tube get a good dusting of talc. You will probably have to buy some as most tire shops no longer keep it on hand as when nearly all tires had tubes.

Just my 2 cents
MG LaVerne

I'm sure that you want the 48 spoke for an original look but why not go with 60 spoke rims that are sealed and are tubeless. The latter rims are stouter giving the extra spokes So if you choose to do any spirited driving or have a modified engine you'll be less likely to have spoke issues in the future. And you'll never have to deal with shredded tubes. JMHO

Bill Chasser
TD 4834
W. A. Chasser Jr

You should use a heavyweight rim band specially intended for wire wheels - read about the issues on the Blockley tyres website.
Dave H
Dave Hill

laVerne,
I've had a difficult time finding REAL talc over here,, I have been told that stuff like baby powder and other "non" talc stuff will ball up and end up being harmfull to the tube..
Steve
Steve Wincze

You can buy it on line or from the large parts houses although it most likely would be special order.

http://www.amazon.com/Rema-Tire-500gram-Shaker-16-Ounce/dp/B001CT9N2O
MG LaVerne

Thanks for all the advice above: I am going for 48 spoke painted wheels for originality. No disrespect to others but; "if I wanted a hot rod I would build a hot rod from scratch". To me my TF is about a nostalgic trip to the past, my past. All y'all will likely feel that way when you are pushing 70 years old. Changing tubes was a part of my childhood and early driving days.

I eventually contacted the wheel manufacturer in England and they categorically stated: "no rim bands required with their version of the 48 Spoke Wheel". The modern equivalent wheel is one of my concessions against true originality. There are a few more concessions to handle the hot Florida summer weather, but the 'Look and Feel' of the original TF is important to me.

LaVerne's comment about the Talcum Powder is very important. I remember this from my early motoring days when changing out tubes before the common use of Tubless tires.

Thanks again

MGTF 1500 9194

I Massey

This one may sound a bit odd, but I have found that the Flex Seal product you see on TV works well. My father had a can of the clear version and I have used it on motorcycle rims. It works well and penetrates into the nooks and cranny's.

Can't see why it would not work on the car wires. I spray lighly and let it tack off so it does not run.
Bruce TD4139 Cunha

For many years, I've used a 20mil PVC tape. Depending on the rim design I use either 1" or 2". Less seams is good. Wrap the rim in up to two even layers, slightly stretching as you go, then cut a smooth hole for the valve stem. Do not use duct tape or electrical tape, it will shift, make a mess and cause a flat in hot weather or from old age. I've also been using the same bottle of baby powder for even longer, never had a problem with it "balling up" or any such thing. The tube always comes out years later with a layer of fine powder still evident. I use plenty of powder during installation, rubbing it into the rubber and onto the tube itself. Remove all stickers, adhesive and blemishes from the inside of the tire.
Steve Simmons

This thread was discussed between 04/02/2016 and 10/02/2016

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