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MG TD TF 1500 - Shoot ! Broke my float bowl cover

Trying to persuade the banjobolt over the filter to come out. Had it soaked in releasing fluids for a week but it seemed soldered in place.
It's for the MK II carbs, they are listed with Moss. Anybody know if they are readily available ?
Glad the other one came out, albeit not easy...
Regards
Gert
GD Nijhof

Gert,

Anyone who knows the proper use of albeit is OK in my book!

Jim Taylor, a really great gentleman who passed away recently was a bit of an SU guru back in the day. He said this about SU Float Bowl lids:

In disassembling old SU carbs, the inlet banjo bolts are probably the most difficult fittings to remove. Corrosion occurs between the steel threads on the bolt and the aluminum threads in the lid. The metal in the lid is a thin domed shell without much strength in resisting torque. If the bolt is stuck and brute force is used in turning the bolt you probably are going to break the lid. New lids, if available. are about $30.00 so it behooves one to proceed cautiously. A technique I have used with about 90% success rate is as follows: Remove lid from float bowl. Clamp a 7/8t' open end wrench in a vise. Place the boss which the bolt screws into, in the 7/8" open end wrench. The metal in the boss is much thicker and stronger than the lid proper. Apply a firm steady torque to the bolt head with a 13/l6" socket in a 1/2" drive ratchet handle. If it still doesn't want to turn. squirt an aerosol penetrating oil through the float valve opening in the lid. Have a colleague gently play a torch on the outside of the boss while you continue to apply torque to the bolt. Aluminum expands more with heat than the steel, thus facilitating the removal.

I've used this technique on customers' carburetors with great success.

Although WKF Wood listed different float bowl lids on the TD and TF carburetors, I believe they were part number changes for other reasons than fit. So you should be able to secure the proper front or rear lid as needed, even used from a regular TD. But Tom Lange, Gordon Lawson or Dan Craig (guys really knowledgeable about the TD MkII) will correct me if I'm wrong.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

Gert,
Mg garagist Henry Hebels in Eindhoven http://www.britishsportscars.nl/ has a lovely ceiling ful of treasures. Up there he had a suitable bowllid for me a couple of years ago. Be very specific because they differ (fi front and rear carb)
And of course there is SUCarbs with lots of new stuff www.sucarb.co.uk
Greetings, Huib
Huib Bruijstens

I have seen various part numbers on float covers, but believe that 1-1/2's are the same as 1-1/4's. Joe Curto would be the expert on this.

Tom
t lange

Good day Gerd, etal:

The SU carburetters for my TD are 1-1/4's and the float chambers and corresponding lids are "handed" ie: front and rear. Now, as I am nowhere near an SU authority, as many other of the TD/TF listers are, kindly take this nattering for what you will.

Float Chamber (Rear) # AUC 3496, Float Chamber Lid (Tickler Pin through the top) # AUC 1161. I believe this was re numbered AUC 4261 (when the Tickler Pin was omitted ?). Burlen Fuels had this listed as # AUE 997 which seems to have been changed to # AUE 999.

Float Chamber (Front) # AUC 3495, Float Chamber Lid # AUC 1160 (Tickler Pin through the top) I believe was re numbered AUC 4260 (sans Tickler Pin ?). Burlen Fuels had this listed as # AUE 996 and again that seems to have been changed to # AUE 997.

If you are stuck obtaining a lid from a source closer by, let me know which one you require and I'll send you a replacement, gratis.(I do recall having sent someone else, amongst our midst, a similar lid within the last year or so).

However; If you do decide to accept my offer it will be enroute from the far flung, nether region of Western Canada. So, it may take quite some time in getting to you (not very helpful if you are trying to get back on the road quickly !).

Cheers for now then; respectfully:
Jack Emdall, TC6768/TD3191, New Westminster, British Columbia, Canada

kernow

Gert - The float bowl covers are available from Burlen Fuel Systems http://www.burlen.co.uk/

I have used freeze mist (aerosol component coolant for troubleshooting heat related problems in electronics) on the banjo bolts after heating the surrounding casting on fuel pumps where the bolt has corroded in place. Heating the aluminum surrounding the bolt, then spray freeze mist on the bolt while applying torque to the bolt. There used to be a product called Freeze-off that can be used in place of penetrating fluid. Haven't seen it around for some time now. Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

Thanks for all your help. Appreciated !

Regards
Gert
GD Nijhof

This thread was discussed between 08/07/2011 and 09/07/2011

MG TD TF 1500 index

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