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MG TD TF 1500 - Shutters while backing

Whenever I back up get a shutter which can only be controlled by gingerly playing clutch. This has occurred since PO. Re-built transmission ( with Help of Bud Krueger) last year no appreciable change, Have done nothing with rear end or suspension any suggestions where to start I know the rear shocks are shot whatever I do back there they will be included. Not looking for a simple/quick fix rather some guideance on where to start
Jon Levine

Jon,
Our TF shuddered on take off in first and reverse. Ours was a broken rear transmission mount. We used a published fix whereby a bolt is installed laterally into the transmission casting. That took care of the problem. Your description is exactly how I would have described our problem.
Safety? Fast?
Scott Ashworth - '54 TF
S. R. Ashworth

In my experience this shuddering can also be caused by a missing or worn rubber bushing/cup washer/or clevis pin in the rear trans mount, bad u-joints or a bent driveshaft, or a bent clutch disc.

Tom
t lange

Control that the drive shaft/ propeller shaft
is correctly aligned. Se WSM section G.3 and G.7
very important.
Thoralf Norway
Thoralf Sorensen

Have you checked U-bolts (hold rear axle to springs) for looseness?
efh Haskell

The most common cause I have seen is deteriorated spring to axle rubber pads (the rectangular ones)and/or loose axle u-bolts. You can try loosening the outer double nut, then tightening the upper one- on all 8 u-bolt ends. However, if the pads are totally shot, the nut will likely run out of threads and will seem tight, but won't actually clamp the spring. What happend is the pinion twists the axle housing up (or down), it botoms on the spring, twists back down and begins oscillating, causing the judder. George
George Butz

Also oil on the clutch plate....Talked to a Mazda mechanic and a few years ago one of the models was known to have the shudder.... they took the cars 'out back' pulled up against a wall and let the clutch out....voila...good for another few months!!!
gblawson(gordon)

My money is on Ed's suggestion. Every time the shudder gets more annoying than just a bit of a stutter, I tighten 'em. If you run into the problem George describes and you don't want to replace the pads (yet) a spacer prior to the two lock nuts can be fitted.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

Okay folks, dig out your NEMGTR TSO CD and have a look at page 33 of the August 1996 issue. Dave Hastings sent in a tech item on this topic with the cause being a case of splayed rear engine mount sides. Cure is to drill some holes through the mount and pull the sides back where the belong.. Bud
Bud Krueger

I have a gearbox that has a busted bottom mount and had heard that there was a fix by drilling through the opposite webs on that bottom mount! Does anyone have or know where I could find details of this fix?
Many thanks
Rod Murray 54TF
Rod Murray

There are pictures on my website, www.dbraun99.com

Look under MG TD15470 restoration and then gearbox and clutch.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

You need to look at all the above. The problem is most likely due to the bell housing moving relative to the body (due to any of the above). The effect is that when the clutch is engaged - especially in the tractor-like 1st and reverse - the torque of the engine moves the bellhousing and causes the clutch linkage to further engage the clutch. This "positive feedback" causes the clutch to grab - moving the bell housing further - further engageing the clutch ... you get the picture. All this while you think you have a steady pressure on the clutch pedal. The task is finding out what is allowing the movement

Frank
F. J. Bruns

This thread was discussed between 24/05/2010 and 31/05/2010

MG TD TF 1500 index

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