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MG TD TF 1500 - signal switch
I have just rebuilt my turn signal switch for a 53 TD that is just like new, took apart, cleaned everthing was like new so greased and re-assembled. How does one get the delay required? I know it has something to do with the felt pad with maybe oil and the set screw in the back cause if I plug the hole the signal will hold till I un-plug then the lever clicks off. If anyone has a way of setting up this switch, please advise. |
R & A Budd |
Just pull out the litle pad and loosen it up and re-install with a drop of oil on the pad. Then screw the tapered screw back in and use it to adjust the timing of the switch. The tighter it is the longer it takes for air to filter back in. Sandy Sanders |
conrad sanders |
There has been a non stock but nice looking switch on ebay several times now by a fellow in Cypris (?) Anyone know where these came from. They don't use the bellows for timing I think. They've also been going pretty dear at over $100 US. ( which may not really be that much after the recent decline) |
D Clark |
I bought one from him. It is a neat switch; was used in the late 50's early 60's to retrofit a turn signal system. I put it on my YT to bypass the ring on the steering wheel and the slipring which is worn out and not replaceable only to find it didn't work. The YT has a complicated turn signal wiring system with two flashers and I found that the switch has an inbuilt flasher with the result that the switch flasher canceled out the cars flashers. I am an electrical dunce and a friend who isn't took the switch apart and disabled its flasher so it now works perfectly and is far superior to the TD/TF switch; gives about 30 seconds before cancelling.The switch should work well on a TD that never had a turn signal system. Terry |
Terry O'Brien |
Instead of grease, which can loose it's lubricity over time, Dow Corning #4 Compound, or #111 Compound or High Vacuum Grease should be used. These are Silicone pastes which remain stable. #4's complete name is Electrical Insulating Compound, it is di-electric, and usefull for coating battery terminal connections, and as a rubber lubricant/preservative/restorer, and in vaccum windshield wiper moters and turn signal switches. Batteries often have small cracks around the terminal post which allow corrosive gases to escape and encrust the battery cable clamp & associated areas. A smear of Silicone paste, or of RTV Silicone rubber will seal things effectively. These product are available through big Industrial Distributors, like A.I.T., Kaman and Motion Industries, who sell bearings, seals and tons of other usefull stuff. Also in Granger's catalogue. |
Scott Barrow |
I believe a Citroen 2CV has a clockwork indicator switch which may be of use to TD owners who are installing flashers. Maybe one of our French collegues can comment? Jan T |
Jan Targosz |
I use the Scintilla black switch which the car came with, I assume it's the importer who added it. No timing. It is used on Bugattis also and is curently available. Denis |
Denis L. Baggi |
I used Vaseline petroleum jelly. Worked a treat, as does my ASL plant spray pressurising pump whci has a similar seal. |
John James |
While on the topic, I have two switches that are in need of repair. I tried Abingdon Spares and they no longer carry rebuild kits. Does anyone know where else I can get parts for these switches? |
Steve Simmons |
I found the leather cup from the switch at my local ACE Hardware store. It was in an assortment of various sized cups (or gaskets) for repair of water pumps. It was the exact right size an had a 1/4 in lip as did the original. I soaked it in "Neats Foot" oiland installed it with a #10 (or 2BA) round head screw instead of the rivet. I cleaned and polished the brass contacts and it has been working fine for the past 8 years. |
Don Harmer |
I need the contacts as mine are broken and most likely beyond repair. |
Steve Simmons |
Steve, If you still have bolth halves of the contact arms, joint them together, bind them by winding fine copper wire around the joint, and solder the whole joint. This should effect a repair as long as the break isn't exactly at the bend where it contacts the cam. Cheers, Lew Palmer |
Lew Palmer |
It's quite near the bend unfortunately. I suppose I could try to solder another piece of copper to it as a brace. Seems strange noone carries replacement parts for these switches. Perhaps I'm just spoiled at the vast amount of parts available for my MGB. |
Steve Simmons |
About signal switch, as I said sometimes ago, I have installed a signal swich from an 11cv Citroen. With a little modification for using the fasher unit of the TD, it works perfectaly well.The modification was to short circuit the flasher unit in the switch |
georgibus |
This thread was discussed between 10/01/2004 and 29/01/2004
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