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MG TD TF 1500 - spongy brakes
Does it take a bit of time for all the air to work out of the brake system? New master cylinder, new rear cylinders, rebuilt front cylinders. Bled system several times; still feels like air might be "trapped." I will bleed again, but on last bleed, no air came out. Shoes adjusted to one click from shoes against drum. Any thoughts appreciated. |
Michael Derrick |
Dot 3 or Dot 5 fluid? If Dot 5 it may take longer to get all the trapped air out (rapidly pumping the brakes to bleed them cause Dot 5 to make big bubbles smaller and much harder to remove). |
Gene Gillam |
Don't remember if Dot 3 or Dot 5? Will take a look. It may just take a bit of time to get the system free of air. |
Michael Derrick |
Are you starting by bleeding the furthest corner away from the MC?? Are you bleeding them my yourself with a glass jar of fluid? Are you pushing SLOWLY on the brake pedel? SPW |
STEVE WINCZE |
Chances are , it is the fronts that are the culprits, as there are two slaves, so twice the opportunity to trap air.... If you started at the wheel farthest from the m/c, first, and don't see any air, (as previously mentioned), and worked your way around to the front....and the pedal is still spongy, look for a fluid leak around one of the fittings, and especially where you did not install new slaves.... Sometimes, air can creep back into the line at junction points, so make sure all the fittings are really tight. Good luck P.S. Dot 5 fluid is purple, not clear. Edward |
Edward Wesson 52TD |
Michael, Over a year ago I had the same problem after installing new wheel cylinders at all corners. After research here on the forum archives I solved the issue. The trick is to back off all 6 wheel cylinder adjusters to zero before you bleed them. That way the pistons can move through their entire displacement to expel the air. Then you set the adjusters. I think you'll find a BIG difference after you do. Good Luck! Gene |
G Burgess |
Michael. Good day to you. Make sure the MC are filled up to correct level all the time and let lid be off so air in the MC can get out.The air bubbles in the fluid needs time to getout Don't put the bleeses fluid back in the MC. Thoralf, Norway TD 4490 |
Thoralf Sorensen (TD4490) |
Very good brake referbishment guide in Bud's TTalk here; http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/TechIndex.html under Brake System Rebuild Notes by Larry Shoer Thanks for the site Bud!!! Thanks for the guide Larry SPw |
STEVE WINCZE |
Michael, Isolate where the air is by clamping the hoses then concentrate on bleeding the worst first. Ray TF 2884 |
Ray Lee |
All: Thanks for the great advice. |
Michael Derrick |
Gene That is a great trick...Wish I had done that when I still had "Rocky"....I will try it on my soon-to-arrive acquisition. Edward |
Edward Wesson 52TD |
Ed, I can't take credit for it. Someone with more expertise than I have had posted the method in the archives, one reason why this forum is perhaps one of the best on the internet! Gene |
G Burgess |
Wonder if the same thing will work on "B's" and "A's"? I don't see why it wouldn't. Edward |
Edward Wesson 52TD |
Whenever I do brake work and subsequent bleeding I become hyper sensitive to pedal feel. Usually it is completely normal. Maybe it is just me. |
John Quilter (TD8986) |
This thread was discussed between 08/05/2013 and 12/05/2013
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