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MG TD TF 1500 - static timing question
I'm getting ready to actually start it. All fuel leaks secured, thank heavens. ANyhow, I have switched to electronic ignition so it is harder to set up the rough timing. I know that the setting that I have guessed at is not right but what is the approximate angle of the flat part of the distributor? John |
John Redman |
John - First, it doesn't matter where the distributor body is oriented other than it needs to be oriented such that if the tach drive gear box loosens and flops over, it doesn't hit the terminal for the primary coil wire going into the side of the distributor. Regardless of where the flat part of the distributor, the rotor wants to be rotated so that it lines up with the wire going to #1 plug when the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the pointer on the timing chain cover AND #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke (with your thumb held over the plug hole for #1 cylinder while the engine is being rotated, the compression will push your thumb off of the hole during the compression stroke). Second, if you are using a Petronix ignition, you can read the on and off pulse just the same as described in the shop manual for the points system. If you are using another electronic ignition, you will have to query others on the BBS for instructions on how to set the timing correctly. Good luck - Dave |
David DuBois |
John When I fitted a pertronix unit I roughly set up the timing by making a colortune plug spark at TDC. The engine made heavy weather of turning over as if under massive compression and showed no sign of starting until I moved the distributor almost 90 degrees anticlockwise. After that it ran smoothly and only needed minor adjustments. Seasons greetings John |
John S James |
John, Check out Bud Krueger's advise from "Ttalk" here: http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/pertronix_igniters.htm He gives step by step instructions with pic's! I followed these when I changed over the TF with great results. Do make sure you pay attention to "poss vs neg" ground systems for pertronix (or it will be toast) and tweak the advance for 30 degrees at 3000 rpm after you get her running. Cheers, David, 55 TF1500 #7427 |
David Sheward |
John, One other "ps" if you don't own a timming light with "advance adjustment", (kind of an old school tool according to every mechanic I tried to borrow one from around here!) don't panic ...check ebay, I picked one up (brand new) on there for about $10.00....you really don't need one of the fancy $400 "digital" one's to get excellent results! Cheers, David 55 TF1500 #7427 |
David Sheward |
John, both Davids are right on. A Pertronix Igniter will emulate a set of points for static tuning. What type of ignition did you install? Positive/negative ground? |
Bud Krueger |
So the Pertronics as I see it still uses the stock advancing mechanism right? Dave |
D Clark |
To D Clark, Arizona --- Yes the Pertronix uses the standard advance mechanism. Or anything else you have fitted to the car. It mounts on the plate that originally held the points/condenser. For positive ground they use a strange hookup that puts the Pertronix in the 12 volt line to the coil, the other side of the coil being wired to the chassis. This allows them to build one assembly and use it for either positive or negative ground. (Wish I had thought of that). Anyway it is a wonderful addition to any "T" series car. I have never been able to show that it causes the spark coil to put out more voltage than the points but it sure starts better, esspecially after the car has been stored for a while (like over the winter). Bob |
R. K. (Bob) Jeffers |
This thread was discussed between 26/12/2005 and 27/12/2005
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