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MG TD TF 1500 - Steering wheel question

Is it possible to reset the position of the steering wheel radially? I mean, can I disconnect the shaft so that I can turn the steering wheel to any position and then reconnect it? Thus allowing me to get the wheel "right side up" when the wheels are pointing straight forward?
If so, how?
Geoffrey M Baker

It's probably a third or something off right? If the steering wheel is not in the correct position when your wheels are pointing forward, you will need unbolt the steering column from the three bolt flange at the steering assembly near the front of the engine. Take note there are cotterpins in these nuts that need to be removed. Probably needs to be rotated just one bolt hole turn. Turn the clover leaf flange so your steering wheel is in the correct orientation and reassemble. If you have a TD, it should be a lot easier than on a TF.

When I put my TF back together I needed to do this because I installed my steering wheel on later and noticed the error. Easy to do on a TF when it is just a chassis and no body panels.
Frank Cronin

If it's slightly off, it should be resolved with an alignment check of the toe - I usually set it to 1/32-1/16" in. This fine adjustment is made on the tie rods.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair

t lange

Thanks Frank, I know the split pins are a pain.

Tom, The alignment is right on, I just need to turn the shaft one bolt hole, I just wasn't sure witch way. Thanks for the reply. My rack is perfect with "0" play. I believe it was changed with a new one before being put to sleep for 20 years. PJ
Paul S Jennings

As Tom and frank stated between the three bolt coupling and tie rod adjustment you should be able to dial it in..I can state that an incorrectly indexed pinion on the steering rack will make it impossible to ever get it aligned with the coupling and or tie rods..so if you do the normal adjustments with tie rods and coupler and cannot get it centered properly, look to the pinion on the steering rack. you may get a degree or two with the splines on the steering wheel to shaft..a spline or two only as there is a key way . Regards, Tom
tm peterson

Looks to me like the rubber bearings are pretty cracked and old. When disassembling this, I should probably replace with new, right? Moss sells a "bearing set" - is this just two rubber bearings, or all six?
Geoffrey M Baker

While you in there, it would be smart to change them out if there is wear. You will probably never have to worry about them ever again. Instead of Moss, I would order the rubber from Abingdon Spares.
Frank Cronin

Geoffrey, Sorry for jumping in on your post! I thought, without looking, it was the post I made. Please excuse the mistake, it was not intended. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Forgot to add. Order one set for a total of 6 in the kit. This all you need and replace with new cotter pins.
Frank Cronin

No problem Paul, I guessed that was what happened. Sorry, I should have thought to make my title more different...
Geoffrey M Baker

On a TF the clamp screw at the top of the column can be loosened and the wheel and splined section slid out. The wheel and splined section can then be put back in at any radial position you choose.
Max Irvine

Max, unfortunately, as you may know, the TD has a key and key way on the slined shaft. Regards, tom
tm peterson

Max, I don't think there's any difference between the TD and TF steering mechanisms. That's with the exception of the support brackets. The key ways are the same. Bud
Bud Krueger

Geoffrey,

You can relocate the position 120 degrees at the rack flange coupling. If the rack has been taken apart, there is a good chance that the shaft coupling was not located correctly on steering rack shaft. There is a very tiny "arrow" and an equally small mark on the shaft and flange coupler that need to be lined up and then the correct bolt holes lined up in the coupler's and final adjustment is made with the tie rods. Removing the flange from the rack requires a puller and some careful patience.
MG LaVerne

Hi Tom,

Your comment to Max re the key is correct, but, (dare I say it!)I did away with the key years ago, so as to get the steering wheel exactly located. The splines hold the wheel firmly once the clamp is tightened, and the theoretical risk of the steering wheel being able to be pulled off, towards your body, which is what the key is mainly there to prevent, can in my humble opinion be ignored.

Max, you will find a lot of info. in the Archives, and some people have made stepped keys, for the necessary minor correction. If you do decide to do away with the key, it is particularly important to make sure that the tie rod ends are adjusted to the same length on each side. Otherwise 'in extremis' the turning circle on one side could be a lot less than the other!

Cheers,

John

J C Mitchell

The key was not in my car when I bought it and I was not aware of its function. I didn't have any problems when I drove it (the car is now under restoration)
Max Irvine

I removed the key while touring in France & Spain.
A missing steering wheel is a good anti theft device.
Never put it back.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

Nitty detail on the steering wheel before you tighten down those nuts with split pins- the screw to attach the center hub cap with medallion is in the 7 o'clock position.

http://www.mg-cars.org.uk/mgtf/Pictures/TF9052/TF9052_281.jpg

Frank Cronin

i always defer to the mechanical engineers who designed the assembly. if they put the part in there i assume there was a reason for it. i suggest reassembly as originally designed. they designed and built far more cars than me. regards, tom
tm peterson

Today I took apart the steering wheel shaft connection, removed the 6 rubber bushings, replaced them with new bushings, replaced everything. tightened it all down and put in new cotter pins.
Voila... the wheel is now proudly at the correct setting when the wheels are pointing straight ahead.
Thanks to all for the advice and information, as always, being a member of this forum makes so many tasks so much easier!


Geoffrey M Baker

While replacing the 6 rubber bushes it is important to first make sure the washers that sits under the bolt heads and the castellated nuts are larger than the rubber and will not pull through the housing. Check this first as someone could have been there before and fitted the wrong smaller size washers.

I know from personal experience what happens when the rubbers perish and pull though with incorrect washer size, you end up with the wheel in your lap with no connection to the steering rack, and it may take some time to realise what has happened by then you will have crashed. I was lucky I was only travelling at less than 5 MPH turning at a country road intersection.

I think everyone should check the washer size out as a precaution.
Rod Brayshaw

Good tip, Rod... My bolts all had the correct size washers. Definitely not something you want to have happen!
Geoffrey M Baker

I was seventeen when a similar thing happened on the school bus I was driving only it was the steering shaft itself that broke leaving the steering wheel in my lap. Fortunately I had just let the last passengers off and was going slowly down a deserted rural road. Came to rest in a well crushed stand of pine saplings. Scary nonetheless.

Jud
J K Chapin

This thread was discussed between 12/05/2014 and 18/05/2014

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG TD TF 1500 BBS is active now.