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MG TD TF 1500 - Storage Question

As much as I hate to admit it, it is time to start thinking about winter storage for the TD. I will be storing the car in a barn, with a wooden floor. I am concerned about mice and damage to the interior and wiring. Anyone have any experience using anything to make the car an unattractive home to them? Rat poison is an option, but I also don't want a car littered with the remains for a rather unpleasant clean-up either.
Thanks in advance.
Dave
David Bouchard

Hi Dave,

Perhaps you should think about a carcoon.

Free of dust, humid and nobody can touch or damage it.

I put my TD in one every winter; I wash it, drive it for a few miles to get it warm and place it in the carcoon.

No humid in there whatsoever

Erik
Erik vanHardeveld

One year I bought a 'big' sheet of plastic... drove unto it and wrapped it up... taped it (with that 'red' tape for doing plastic on houses) and it worked well.... (well, until I had to get into the glove box in January)!!!
gblawson(gordon)

David,

Mice and other rodents dislike paradichlorobenzene, or mothballs. They also dislike Irish Spring soap and dryer sheets. I would place some of each in the interior, the engine area, and the opening of the exhaust pipe. You can even place some around the car. When spring comes, the stuff can be removed, and the car will return to normal smell.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

Dave,

I recommend you remove the seat back and seat cushions from the car and store them in a certain rodent-free environment. It's easy and requires no tools to get them out. When you need to bond with your MG during the long winter, put leather conditioner on the seat surfaces.

If any of the carpets can be removed, take them out and store them with the seats.

I found the snap-on plastic lid to an old 35 mm film "can" fits my TD exhaust tip perfectly. I snap it on each fall to prevent a rodent from nesting in the exhaust line. (Just remember to take the lid off before you start your car. I put a note on the starter pull to remind me.)

The canvas top should be raised and side curtains fitted. I take several small plastic margarine tubs, fill them with moth balls, perforate the lids, and place them throughout the car. You can use unperforated lids to store the plastic tubs during the driving season.

Other things to do while you're at it:

If your car won't be started during the winter, remove the battery, and place it in warm storage. Charge the battery periodically or put it on a maintenance charger (one example: http://www.batterymart.com/p-batteryminder-plus-12v-1_3a-battery-charger.html).

Put the car on jack stands so that your tires don't get a flat spot or move the car a foot or so one way or another during the winter.

Change fluids, lube, etc.

I'm not giving up the driving season just yet. The foliage is just starting to turn and the skies are bright!

Larry
Lancaster, MA
Larry Shoer

Thank you all for the information. I will pull as much of the interior as possible when the time comes (I too have not given up the drining season...just looking ahead to be prepared), and use the Mothball/dryer sheet/ Irish spring methods and hope for the best.

Larry, we should get together to shoot the breeze about our cars, we are not too far apart, I live in West Brookfield.

Dave
David Bouchard

I really like Larry's thoughts on the margerine tubs and taking out the seats if you have room in your house.

I take a small issue with placing the car on Jackstands, I've never had radial tires take a set from sitting for six months, and in the case of a fire, you wouldn't be able to push the car out if the opportunity arose. Just a thought. Finally see my technical article on my technical index page of my website for why storing batteries in a cold environment is actually much better for their long life than storing in a warm enviromnemt. http://www.dbraun99.com/

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

When I bought the Wolseley, the p/o had filled the interior with dryer sheets... God, what a horrible smell. Didn't take too long (week or two) for it to go away, but during that time it certainly wasn't pleasant... same with moth balls...
If told 'pepper' and/or 'bloodwart'(?) sprinkled around the floor around the car keeps them away???
A condom on the exhaust pipe works and if you forget about it, you see it in your rearview mirror after starting!!!!!
Really like the idea of removing the seats ... 'duh', never thought of it?
I would think keeping your gas tank really low would be good and filling it with fresh gas in the spring...now days fuel starts to 'stink' after a few months (there again, my 28 year old fuel was a smell i will never forget)!
They (?) say to change oil and grease before putting away, and doing it when you first take it out in the spring?
I cover the car with a cotton car cover I made...never a tarp or plastic (unless there is the car cover under it).
You can overfill your tires by about 10 pounds and let it out in the spring.
Try to start it once a month or every two weeks.
Double check your coolant mixture.




gblawson(gordon)

Gordon; An empty or low tank will cause you more problems than you want. Think of all the condensation forming on the inside with rust following. Just add STABIL and fill your tank. Drive the car a little bit so as to mix Stabil thoroughly.

Sandy
conrad sanders

I go with Eric's recommendation. Car Caccoon's run in the $300 range. It not only keeps the rodents out, it keeps the dust off. It also offers some protection for the car if you go in and out of the barn as the bubble stays about a foot off the car.

I do my fall prep, change the oil, check the antifreeze to assure it will cover down to 30 below, do my seats with a conditioner, wash and wax the car, fill it with gas and add stablitz.

I normally put it up on jack stands, but Dave makes a good point about being able to get it out of the garage fast if there were a fire. Caccoon would take a few seconds to get off with a sharp object.


Bruce-C

Your right about the gas... condensation more then rust (have the tank interior sealed)...
gblawson(gordon)

It is always good to change fluids and grease things in the fall before laying it up. New grease will drive out any contaminents and moisture, and new oil (and filter) removes acids and moisture. Those wormy looking marks on engine bearings is from old oil sitting on them for season upon season! Always run an engine after the oil change to circulate clean oil to all the bearings before storage. If you disconnect the fuel pump you can run the carbs fairly dry and then remove the float bowl lids and suck the fuel out. But...

Fuel stabilizer in a full tank is my preference too. I like Sea Foam, but Stabil is good too. And running the engine does take care of getting the stabilzation agent to the carbs. I like to go to the filling station, add the Sea Foam, and then add the fuel. It mixes best that way.

It isn't necessary to change the gearbox oil or rear axle oil unless they are turning funny dark colors from use!

Although I installed rodent screens in my seats when I rebuilt them, I really like the idea of bringing my seats in the house.

warmly,
dave


Dave Braun

I used to think that mothballs were a good rodent deterrant... untill the mice built a nest and raised a family right next to the mothballs !!!! Poison is the only way,, after eating the poison they usually go away to die,,

SPW
Steve Wincze

I used mothballs under a concrete porch to rid it of a family of skunks... the skunks left, but my roomate complained as the smell permeated the house... so there i was on my hands and knees under a porch that smelled like skunk/mothballs, pulling each one out (the mothballs, not the skunks).... what a reek that was for a month!!!!
gblawson(gordon)

You beat me to it Dave. I was going to research the archives and start a consolidated wisdom summary thread (for future enquiring minds) on "COLD weather storage" with the must do, nice to do options since I won't have a nice heated garage any more. May still do it since many items on the must do list not covered here.

I've done the plastic sheet under the car method taped up at least 18" all around method to ward of the mice critters too. Just have to make sure its fairly vertical and there aren't any "traction" slopes for them or parked close to anything they can jump from. Seemed to work. Also added the dryer sheets under the seats. Didn't do that 1st year in the country and paid the price with seat shreddings galore.
Randy
R Biallas

I'm glad I started this topic now...lots to consider,along with many great reminders about storage issues for the cold months.

I am always humbled by the collective wisdon of the members on this forum...Thanks!
Dave
David Bouchard

Not new info, just another vote. My EPO used a bag every winter for years and I bought one from him a year ago. New they go for $150. Nothing gets in or out and with the use of drying agents in a pan under the car the rust bug is held a bay. I do have a tickler charger but won't run it in the bag (so why did I buy the charger?). It's not a snap for stiff old guys like me to fit and storing the damn thing is a pain because it doesn't fold well after first use.

Dick Thomas
TD13583
Dick Thomas

This thread was discussed between 04/10/2008 and 07/10/2008

MG TD TF 1500 index

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