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MG TD TF 1500 - Sump Gasket Adhesive Needed

The issue is to glue the sump gasket to the block while the engine is installed and oil-soaked. I'm trying to reinstall the sump as part of the new front crank seal installation. Best installation of the 'paper' sump gasket requires it to be installed so that the stepped cork rear cap seal goes over it. This can not be done by gluing the gasket to the sump. The cork seal must be installed first. I usually use the Permatex glue in the little white jar with the brush. Anybody have experience with something that can stay sticky in spite of the oily block surface and hold the gasket up in the air? TIA. Bud
Bud Krueger

Bud, check this one out. If not, Google Permatex and sort through the ad.

Permatex® PermaShield™ Fuel Resistant Gasket Dressing & Flange Sealant
Jim Merz

Bud
I don't know if it is still available but I had to do the same thing way back in Northern Ireland when in the Air Force there. I used "Red Hematite". Kept the sump gasket in place till I could offer up the sump. Worked fine for me. The other assistance you could try is to tie the gasket up with a bit of cotton on the outside edge and remove the cotton once you have the sump on the bolts but not tight.

No doubt Holmar make an equivalent

Rod
R D Jones

Bud is there any chance you can get your face away and spray the parting surface with some brake clean? You may then spray the block with a couple of coats of permatex spray and the gasket as well, let them dry like you would contact cement and stick it in place. You can clean the gasket with brake clean first if it's already oily.

I don't know of anything that will stick it on with oil on the surface.

I hope it's on a lift as it's a miserable job to put any pan up on your back.

Jim
JE Carroll

No, Jim, it's on jackstands. I can wash the oil off of the block surface with a variety of solvents on cloths, but gravity is going to keep some dribbling down. The iron has absorbed oil over time and is not keen on letting things stick to it. I'll probably wind up with a combination of approaches of solvents (most likely acetone), adhesives and string (or wire). Once the mounting screws are in place it's not a problem. Keep the ideas coming, please. Bud
Bud Krueger

Oh yeah, one other thing. The garage is unheated and is usually at about 44°F when I open it up nowadays. If the ambient is above freezing my electric space heater generally gets the air temperature up to about 55. The iron warms up very slowly. C'mon Springtime. Bud
Bud Krueger

Try Permatex Aviation Sealer. It never fully dries and seals well against oil. Easy to work with. You could brush it onto the gasket, give the block a wipe with some brake cleaner, and then stick the gasket on.
Steve S

Bud tie the gasket up with cotton sewing thread.
Len
Len Fanelli

You could wipe the oil off and smear on a layer of axle grease - that will stick the gasket in place and not care a jot if more oil runs down...
Chris at Octarine Services

Engine building 101 in general I always use contact cement on one side & grease on the other side of a gasket.
Len Fanelli

Bud, I found that the weight of the paper gasket is soo low that any sticky stuff will hold it up. I used a solvent to clean the metal surface and than applied some silicone gasket sealer. I remember that putting the cork in place and keeping it there whilst lifting the sump was the most critical part. A torch helps to keep an eye on that surroundings. Good luck, Huib
Huib Bruijstens

Bud,

I'm not sure if this is helpful in your case but one thing I do often when assembling equipment parts that need to be accurately aligned is to make locating studs out of long bolts by cutting the heads off. After the part is secured with other bolts the studs are removed. I just keep them in the boxes with real bolts where I can find them again.

Four of these will help to locate the pan and also help keep the gasket in place. My local bolt supplier has the fine thread metric bolts in various lengths.

I'm glad it's not me on my back in a cold garage. There's just been too many single digit and negative temps this winter. The cold garage helps explain why the block is still dripping oil. Brrrr.

Jim

JE Carroll

Bud, Here's what I use. Hi Tack, I only put it on one side to hold a gasket. A machine fit shouldn't need anything on the other side, but. PJ


Paul S Jennings

Bud,

I have just done this job myself, last week, on an MG TF1500, fitting a Moss lip seal to the front of the crankcase & timing chain cover. Procedure I used was very successful, as follows:-

1) after cleaning all mating surfaces wiped them over with cellulose thinners.

2) fitted timing case gasket to front of engine, lip seal to timing case, installed it, and fitted new cork seal to rear, using thin smear of RTV silicone gasket maker (blue) on all the mating surfaces.

3) smeared thin coat of RTV to crankcase side of gasket, ensuring oil feed hole remained clear, and stuck it to crankcase with extra blob of RTV where sump gasket meets both cork seal and front lip seal.

4) smeared thin coat of RTV to sump mating surfaces and bolted it to crankcase and bell housing. Need to tighten 10 sump bolts first, to compress new cork seal, before bell housing bolts will line up.

And that was it.

Hope this helps,

Neil.
N D Wallace

https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNAUTTDS.nsf/web/AC52A89DC6CFDE3D882571870000D634/$File/3020-EN.pdf

It's what I use as well but in the spray can.
JE Carroll

Thanks for all of the suggestions, folks. Looks as if it'll be Saturday before the thermometer is going to get up to about 40F. The problem is that the cast iron is still going to be quite cold (as is the garage floor). That Loctite Hi-Tack sounds interesting, but the $25/tube is tough to justify. Bud
Bud Krueger

Bud, I clean the block surface with a heavy wiping of brake cleaner until no black shows on a rag. Then I use Indian Head Gasket Shellac Compound on the block side of the gasket. I also use a couple of guide studs made from old cut-off bolts and I use a bit of grease on the pan surface. Marvin, ct
Marvin Stuart

I use 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive on some gaskets, particularly the cork gasket on the valve cover.

It is a contact cement (and as Len suggests) I use it to glue one side of the gasket and then grease or oil on the other side. With a valve cover gasket, for example, I use it to glue the gasket to the valve cover.

It won't stick to an oily surface, though, though you'll be hard pressed to find something that will.



David Littlefield

Interesting - I played with both of these last two products today. My fingers are still yellow from the 3M. The NAPA Indian Head doesn't seem very happy about low temperatures. There's a good chance that I'll be trying the 3M this weekend (with a variety of tricks). Bud
Bud Krueger

I usually wear a nitrile disposable glove when applying the 3M product. Sorry I didn't mention that earlier. :)

That stuff is sticky as all hell!
David Littlefield

There is a British product called "Hylomar" and is available from Moss. It is the only gasket sealant used by Rolls Royce. And it is the ONLY sealant I will use on my engines. It's blue, sticky, and never dries, but it completely impervious to water, oil, grease, and most chemicals. One coating and there are NO oil leaks.
Lew Palmer

This thread was discussed between 02/03/2014 and 05/03/2014

MG TD TF 1500 index

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