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MG TD TF 1500 - SUPERCHARGER FITTING - MGTF. FOR TOM LANGE

Tom, I've found that the easiest way to fit and remove the supercharger is to detach it from the manifold, and then remove the manifold from the head. It saves having to expand the car about six inches to get the assembly out, and also gives much better access to the manifold nuts. You reverse the process for re-installation.

To do this I've replaced the lower Allen screws connecting manifold and blower with hex bolts. It is still fiddly to start the bolts and the inner manifold nuts, but a great deal easier than assembling with the thing as a unit.

I think this process would also be easier for the TD, although owners might have a different view.

The reason I've addressed this to you is because, looking at the blower and manifold, it would be straightforward to relocate the lower fastenings so that they don't clash with the inner manifold studs. They could either go outwards or, if this is considered to put too much load on the corners of the manifold, inwards. I've considered doing this myself but I don't want to drill and tap with the blower assembled. You mentioned that Terry is looking for input to a possible redesign - could you pass this on?

Thanks, David
D A Provan

Come do mine and show me.... I need to remove and replace my head soon. I remove the entire front end to get at it.


L E D LaVerne

Hi David
Any images of your installation?? I would be most interested to see them I assume this is for the Eaton based SC I ask as this is likely to be a purchase in the near future.
LaVerne
Can I ask how you got over the no front catch on your TF hood/bonnet please,as i would like an idea of the solution before I start to strip the car
Also i was hoping to get away with just stripping the front wing and inner panel
Regards John
J A Davies

I haven't had any issues not having the front catch after 30,000 miles of hard road use. When the bonnet is closed no one knows the difference.


L E D LaVerne

My car required that I remove not only the front catch.


L E D LaVerne

But the brace assembly as well as it was just touching the belt pulley when closed.


L E D LaVerne

I have kept all of the pieces should someone want to put them back in in the future.


L E D LaVerne

You don't have to remove the distributor side wing or side panel,to install it. But in order to remove the blower side panel and wing you will have to disconnect the headlight/park light wiring (fog /driving lamp wiring if so equipted), running board tread strips.

there are a few other tricks to mount the blower in a TF. One thing I also like to do is mark the new crank pulley so I know exactly where the ignition timing is.


L E D LaVerne

Many Thanks for the images especially the pulley I hope to purchase the SC shortly
I hope for a straight forward fit but rest assured if I have problems I will give the Forum a call

Regards John
J A Davies

LaVerne,
I found a neat way to dress the copper overflow pipe from the float bowl of the distributor. This photo is from my TD and I am not sure of the configuration on the TF.
Mort


Mort Resnicoff

Sucsess !.....hope I can get it back together when I'm done.


L E D LaVerne

Sorry I don't have photos but, basically, you just replace the two lower Allen screws that attach the blower to the manifold with hex screws. This is best done before fitting the blower. You still have to shorten the manifold studs to avoid interference with the blower.

Removing the blower once installed is easy. Installation is still fiddly: you install the outer manifold nuts and then ease the blower up to the manifold, starting the inner nuts. Next step is to start the upper Allen screws, and then use these as a guide for the gap between blower and manifold as you start the lower hex screws, through the lower access panel. It is easiest as a two-man (oops, two-person) job. A smear of sealant between blower and manifold is a good idea.

If I was fitting a blower for the first time I'd do it this way. In fact, I'd probably re-position the lower screws for easier access and to avoid fouling during fitting.

Bottom line: it is fiddly, but it sure beats dismantling or expanding your TF.

Last thought: I don't trust the radiator to support the wings during bumps, so I fitted a strap mild steel cross member with the ends twisted through 90 degrees, in holes drilled through the tie bar bracket. It sits ahead of the fan, just behind the radiator. The photo's not great, but I think shows enough.



D A Provan

Appreciate the info David, Your later blower and mounting arrangement is quite different than this earlier unit I have. Still remains to be seen if I can get this back together without having to remove the side panel.
L E D LaVerne

Mr La Verne (sorry, I don't have your first name), your installation does look different. The issue, I guess, is whether you can access blower to manifold fasteners with the unit in the car. For what it's worth, this photo shows my unit separated.

I have found that continued re-tightening of manifold nuts is required for quite a while after fitting the blower. It may be that the weight of the unit acts to further compress the manifold gasket - whatever the reason, I've blown a couple.

I also found that the blower pulley interfered with the front brace assembly, but I cheated and cut a chunk out of the brace. It is still capable of accepting the catch, if required in future.

These cars differ a lot. A friend of mine fitted the same unit into a TF and had no clearance problem with the brace. However, I can change the drive belt (my first one shed chunks) without raising the engine and he can't.

David



D A Provan

This thread was discussed between 22/03/2018 and 06/04/2018

MG TD TF 1500 index

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