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MG TD TF 1500 - TD Brake Pipes
I have started fitting a new set of brake pipes to my Right hand drive TD. The long pipe that runs from the 4 way connector to the rear brake hose seems to be a bit too long. The only way I could get it to fit would be for it to zig-zag up and down the chassis rail rather than making a straight run. Has anyone else had this problem? I could shorten it but the pipe is kunifer, which I think is a bit more difficult to work with than copper, so I'd rather not if I can avoid it (not sure my budget pipe flaring tool is up to it!).
Grateful for any advice Thanks Pete |
P Willows |
Pete, The parts manual mentions that the length of this pipe is 51 inches. Can you measure it and if it is longer you could contact the supplier and get them to send you one of the correct length. John |
J Scragg |
this was covered quite recently, the pipe was long and bent to clear the vertical oil filter on early cars.It had a downwards loop by the chassis cut out near the oil pump. Kunifer (nickel/copper) will bend easily to accommodate it.If you have an oil filter that is piped to the block you will need to make sure the filter does not rub on the housing. Ray TF 2884 |
Ray Lee |
How are you routing the line? The only factory picture with the brake line I could find is a LHD, but I would think it is the same for the other side. Can you post a picture? |
Bruce Cunha |
the lines are routed the same on LHD and RHD except the master cylinder pipe on RHD crosses over the suspension cross member to the 4 way. Ray TF 2884 |
Ray Lee |
Thanks for the responses. This line runs along the left hand chassis rail from the 4 way junction (where the brake light switch is) to the connection to the rear flexible hose. It's not near the oil filter, so not affected by that. I'll measure it and report back. There are a number of 1/4" holes in the chassis rail that I assume should have clips in them. I was going to route it mainly along the bottom of the chassis rail. I haven't managed to find a detailed picture showing the routing for a RHD car.
Cheers Pete |
P Willows |
Thanks Ray. Another point I did not know. So they left everything on the left and just put in a longer pipe to bring it across. Interesting. |
Bruce Cunha |
Pete -
Here is a diagram of brake lines modified from the TF Service Parts List, and a list of TD parts and line lengths from the TD Service Parts List. As Bruce noted, the only difference between RHD and LHD is a longer pipe and routing from the RHD master cylinder to the 4-way connector. Here is a link to photos and diagrams of each bend on my TF. Same as TD. Stored on my Google Drive. Click the link to view on-screen or to download to your computer. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1X0MDsRCogNmY4V8lJ8qnSSJHKgbc_2_e/view?usp=sharing Lonnie TF7211 |
LM Cook |
Bruce, Yes, a simple way of getting over the M/C being on the other side. They then decided to make your LHD pedal box a nightmare to work on.To cap it all,on RHD they put the speedo cable and the fuel pipe (2 on TDC's) between the pedal box and the chassis. Ray TF 2884 |
Ray Lee |
So was the TD originally designed as a LHD for export? It would seem that it would have been as easy to put the brake lines on the right side and pipe it over for LHD. With the exception of the two fuel lines used for the TD/C, there is the same amount of space on either side given one has the fuel line and the other the wiring harness? Does anyone know if the TD was actually designed for LHD? |
Bruce Cunha |
I measured the pipe and it is about 52", so pretty much what John said it should be. So I think I'll stick with it and get it to fit.
Lonnie - Thanks for the photos - they are fantastic - really useful. Your brake line along the chassis looks to follow the route I was planning. But you have another shot showing a 'V' in another pipe. I think maybe I'll put something similar in the long pipe I have to take up the slack. The photos also show the pipes on the rear axle, which is helpful because they look tricky to get right. It just seems so counter-intuitive to have them in mid-air where they clear the rebound straps - they look really vulnerable. Still, I suppose MG knew what they were doing! Pete |
P Willows |
Glad that the photos helped.
There aren't many places to put extra bends to get your pipe from the 4-way to the flex hose to fit. There is a small double bend where it transitions from the chassis to the 4-way. And a "V" under the cross member. Measure your pipe to see if it is 51" long as stated in the Parts List. If too long, then you could cut and flare the pipe to the correct length. I agree, the pipe hanging out in the air at the rebound straps looks funny. My pipe in the photos is a little exaggerated. On early TDs or pre-production TDs, the pipe that is attached to the diff went THROUGH the rebound straps and fit tightly to the axle. Guess that the pipes became trapped between the strap and the axle, so it was changed. You can see the pipe running through the straps (dotted lines) on this image modified from the TD/TF Workshop Manual Lubrication Chart. Might be easier to see in your WSM. Lonnie TF7211 |
LM Cook |
Thanks Lonnie. I guess I'll do it the way MG decided was best! |
P Willows |
This thread was discussed between 06/02/2022 and 09/02/2022
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