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MG TD TF 1500 - TD Brakes

Does anyone have some good tips on getting the last ounce of air out of a TD braking system. I have learnt to keep the master cylinder well topped up, but the brakes still feel spongy. The gunson Eezibleed seems a good idea, but I suspect will need a home made cap for master cyl.
Henry Buckeldee

When i had this problem, it was because the master cyl. was filled w/ rust & mud, plugged ports on the cyl. have you had your cyl. resleeved? Len
Len Fanelli

Henery - If you take a look at the bleeders at each wheel, you will note that they only bleed the line to the cylinders, not the cylinders themselves. If you have a syrenge, you can remove the banjo fitting at each cylinder and shoot brake fluid in until it starts running out, then replace the banjo fitting. I have also taken the cylinders apart and filled them with fluid and then reassembled them. The problem with this method is the ones on the front wheels that point down. Those two require removal from the backing plate to do this. This is a fussy and messy procedure, but it is the only way that I have found to get all the air out of the cylinders and get the brakes to firm up. Good luck - Dave
David DuBois

As long as your braking system is in good repair (no leaks, good seals, hoses in good condition etc.) you should be able to bleed all the air from your braking system without disassembling it. The trick is to take your time and be willing to use a litre of fluid up in the process. You should start with the wheel the furthest from the master cylinder and work back to the closest one....then repeat the process. I have my wife work the pedal whilst I bleed the air. I have only done this twice in 3 years of raod use and it worked perfectly each time with no sponginess or freeplay.
Phil Stafford

Phil, you are spot on. The only difficult bit about bleeding TD brakes is getting your head above the master cylinder.
I will add a couple of tips that work for me.
Do not try it without a piece of bleeder hose, which should be arranged in such a fashion that the fluid goes up for a few inches before going down into your tin.
Do not open the bleeder nipple more that 1/4 turn when you bleed.
Doing it this way I have always managed it without help.
If you open the bleeder nipple too far you stand the risk of air leaking back through the threads. and if you arrange the hose that it goes straight down into the tin, air travels back up the hose.
I have never had to pre fill the cylinders.
Make sure that the bleeder hose is a good tight fit.

Works for me.

Happy braking,

Paul.
Paul van Gool

Chaps, One trick I have found to be effective to get stubborn air bubbles out of the hydraulics in a couple of cars is as follows: have the bleed tube immersed in a little fluid in the bleed jar, but with plenty of empty space in the jar, and with a rag over the top of it. Close the bleed screw. Have a helper pump up the brakes until they are firm, and then, with the helper still applying firm pressure on the pedal, open the bleed screw quickly, and then close it again immediately. As you can imagine, the fluid spurts out pretty fast, so allow for some mess. This method seems to work because the sudden release of pressure moves the air bubble along the system, rather than allowing it to remain where it is. So you need to repeat the process immediately to stop the bubble returning, until the helper tells you that the pedal is nice and firm. Hope this works for you - it has for me! AB
Adrian Bennett

This thread was discussed between 19/04/2002 and 22/04/2002

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG TD TF 1500 BBS is active now.