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MG TD TF 1500 TD brakes BBS discussion at MG-Cars.net
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MG TD TF 1500 - TD brakes
| Hi guys, Apparently, I need help. I have replaced my TD brake shoes, cylinders, hoses, bled all four brakes in the correct order, and adjusted according to the instructions (tighten the adjusters to stop, then back off one click). However, the car takes too long to stop. It stops quickly enough if you are planning it, but will not stop rapidly. There is plenty of fluid in the master and no leaks. What am I missing? Thank you very much, Steve |
| Steve Swarts |
| Did you have the brake lining arc matched to your brake drums? If not, it will take a while for the shoes to "bed in" on the brake drums. You may have reduced contact between the shoe and drum until they bed in properly. Were your drums turned? Did your brakes pulse at all before your brake job? |
| DLD |
| "What am I missing?" strength in your right leg? or, plan ahead? (sorry to be facetious) but it takes force. Back in the days, 50yrs ago, I could stop my TD fast enough to shift all the oil in the pan forward, to starve the pump. The racers put baffles in the sump to stop that. Don't know if I could still do that with the TF. Sounds like you've got things all fixed up, in order. Al, 54 TF, "Emma" |
| Al Parker |
| Your description doesn't leave too many possibilities. As DLD said, your drums could be out of true and this could be reducing brake power - but you should feel pulsing or juddering if this is the case. Make sure the shoes are not in backwards! You might try to adjust the brakes back that "one click" and see how that drives... |
| Geoffrey M Baker |
| Check the archives for "Servo vs. Silicon" and see http://www.ttalk.info/TinkerServo.htm for another idea. Bud |
| Bud Krueger |
| +1 bedding in. It will take a while. Matthew. |
| M Magilton |
| Assuming you did not turn the drums you may want to take an 80 grit flap wheel and knock the glaze off. You may have to hit the shoes a little too now that you have run them. You will know the minute you look at them. They will have shiny spots all over them. Dan |
| Dan Nordstrom |
| Steve - make sure you have the front brake cylinders pointing downward - it is possible to mount them backwards, and defeat the twin-leading shoe. Tom Lange |
| t lange |
| I would consider getting some softer linings. Hugh |
| H.D. Pite |
| STEVE, How did it stop with the old shoes? Did you have the shoes relined locally? or did you get the Moss relined shoes? I had shoes relined locally, and the lining turned out to be way too hard, (like Hugh suggests) resulting in the need for a LOT of pedal pressure and looong stopping distances. New Moss shoes solved the problem. Steve |
| Steve Wincze |
| All suggestions above right on. Tom L- I think you mean the front front brake cylinders- not both front cyls? It should stop with a little more pedal force than a modern car when all working well. Silicone fluid seems to be hard to bleed for some, if that is what you used. George |
| George Butz |
| George - thanks for clarifying - yes, I meant the front front - both front wheel cylinders on the front - oh, never mind.... Steve - if you pull the drums and look at the shoes you will see if they are contacting the drums evenly over their whole surface; I rubber cement emery paper onto the drum and hand-arc the shoes until I have a nice, overall contact pattern. Wear a mask! Tom Lange MGT Repair |
| t lange |
This thread was discussed on 19/11/2015
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