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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - TD/c-8151 assembly begins!

Had a warm sunny day today and decided to roll the car out of the trailer. Installed all of the hinges, drivers door, LTDs on the rear quarters and back panels, radio antenna, rear view mirror and Rivnuts for the plnth Aeroscreens. i ran into a problem with the door check fouling the door’s hole. Minor setback and should have it resolved tomorrow.

Also expecting a shipment from AS tomorrow of a new LHD toe board and a set of bonnet latch slides. Thank you Ed and Martin. Great guys and always helpful. I forgot to order a rear bonnet rubber and windshield to scuttle mounting hardware from them. But being an early TD I’ll need to source common oval head screws as the Phillips head screws would be incorrect. I should have several hardware kits but haven’t located them yet. Too many boxes of NOS and repop parts scattered throughout the house. I’m lucky to be single. I also have several of the “Moss profile” bonnet seals and may just go with it. It will relax in time once the bonnets are closed but it is a pain to install when new. Once I receive the current AS order I can secure all the tub to chassis fixings and I can lay the floors in position.

Expecting 6-7 days of dry weather so I hope to get all of the body panels fitted by next weekend

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151



W A Chasser

Pic 2


W A Chasser

Bill I've asked this question on this forum a few times and never got a satisfactory response. With that nice new paint around the battery box earth point, how are you proposing to deal with that? Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Peter, I don't know what Bill is planning to do but I use a serrated washer on either side and dielectric grease. Hated to scratch up the new paint but if you don't no ground.

Regards

Tim
Timothy Burchfield

Yeah getting a good ground (earth) is critical. If not we've all seen what can happen when the electrons choose another path, resulting in fried components that were never intended to carry current. The dielectric grease has protected the exposed metal from rust? Sorry to steal your thread Bill. Your car is looking absolutely terrific! Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

The main purpose of dielectric grease is to prevent corrosion of electrical connections. It is not conductive. So you need a good metal on metal contact, with the grease coating the electrical connection. I use it to prevent corrosion of the electrical connection and the bare metal under the serrated washers. Its worked so far (2 years) on my 51 TD. Now back to your regularly scheduled thread. :-)

Tim
Timothy Burchfield

If you recall, Dave Dubois was a big proponent to making sure your car had good grounds. He recommended an Osborn pilot brush. I used this for my grounds for the battery box and especially when I installed the Arnolt heater that uses the brackets to complete the ground attached to the bottom of the battery box.

A 3/8" brush area is perfect easily hidden with a washer coated with dielectric grease as Tim mentioned.

Frank
TF1414




Frank Cronin

Peter H. I also use a serrated washer to cut into the paint. It’ll be a long time before I get to that point. Lol

The best laid plans can easily go awry. Received my toe board from AS today but it has quality control issues. Also, The reproduction toe board is manufactured using caged nuts in all positions where the original D nuts were used. Since I’m striving for a concours restoration this unfortunately is not going to fit the bill. Someone a while back either here or the MGExp had offered me a very nice toe board from their spares. I forgot who this was but if you read this I now would like to talk to you if you still have it. Or anyone else for that matter. I don’t want a beater. I have plenty of those. But because of the current issue I have with the repop I wasn’t able to get the firewall bolted in place or the floors installed. Sadly, I’ll be calling Ed on Monday to discuss the repop. The bonnet latch slides look good on an initial inspection. I plan to install all the latch hardware along with my NOS handles this evening.

Beyond all that progress was made today. I did an ever so slight modification to the door check on the drivers side. After several hours of fiddling it now allows the door to move freely without binding. Yea! The passenger door was mounted and I’ll have to repeat the process for the door check on that side as well. I don’t have any original to compare the repop to but I’m assuming they are not the same design or spec. I then installed my NOS windshield mounts using a Moss hardware kit. The bolts are very short. The rear most side position bolt doesn’t even extend through to the inside. So I’ll definitely be sourcing a more suitable replacement that is a slot oval head as original. But their in place at the moment and I’ll have to backtrack to make it right.






W A Chasser

So Frank it's bare metal, the serrated washer then the di-electric grease? Apparently any sort of conductive compound that prevents the bare metal under the washer from rusting or corroding doesn't exist? I assume both sides of the battery box wall are cleared of paint where the earth bolt attaches? I'll check CC's details to find the correct type/size of bolt, washer and nut. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

The serrated washer is such that it "bites" into the paint to get contact with the metal when you torque it down to get good earth and also as an anti-vibration device from loosening.

TF 1414 was epoxy primed and this epoxy stuff is pretty darn hard and durable and didn't know if a serrated washer would be sufficient enough to get the good earth. Just peace of mind so when it came to testing everything electrical and to make things easier. Using the pilot brush I did have to work pretty hard to get to bare metal... kudos to the epoxy primer I guess.

I just did one side. Inside the battery box.

Dab a little grease on the metal - that's it.

Frank

TF1414

Frank Cronin

I had no trouble with a heavy serrated washer cutting through my epoxy primers. I used a dab of the red battery terminal anti corrosion goop on the washer only. It seals around the margins of the cut paint from the washer. 6 yrs it been undisturbed and no corrosion present.
W A Chasser

I used this product. A little expensive but works great. 2oz tube will last you practically a lifetime. Great for the workshop. I use it for connections, light bulb bases, spark plugs, etc., and also used it to restore the Lucas pneumatic directional switch to lubricate the cylinder and good seal for the piston / leather cup on the TF.



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FD145CP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://youtu.be/vACXF3EYiUY

https://www.nyelubricants.com/myth-grease-interferes-with-conductivity


Frank

TF1414



Frank Cronin

Made some progress over the last week. I had a couple of windshield glasses cut and Saturday installed one into the NOS framework. That went well but took me about 3-4 hours to complete it. I then moved onto the fuel tank and installed the NOS sender, MK II fuel fittings and the flip top cap. I had a problem getting it lined up on the backside hole and needed help from a neighbor extra pair of hands to drive the pin home. I need to find a source for the release lever pin as mine was with my loose items. Any one know were to source this pin let me know please...

I installed the backboard wedges onto the tub after receiving a template from Bruce Cunha early last week. I had forgotten to drill holes for the T Nuts prior to sending the tub to the paint shop and they painted over my marks. With new rubbers in place on the wedges and chassis I set the tank into position and ran into another problem. There is a gap between the tank and wedge rubbers of almost 3/8”. This is partially the result of shortening the overall length of the tub’s font and rear quarters panels in my effort to tighten the door jamb gaps. So tomorrow I will go to my local rubber supply house to get thicker material for the wedges and for the tub frame to chassis mounting points. If I have thought this out correctly it should only be a minor setback.

In the meantime I’ve loosely mounted the tire rack to the rear crossmember, installed the license plate and light brackets along with a NOS Lucas lamp. I need to source a correct license plate bumper Just for giggles I also installed my license plate that the car was originally registered under.

The day was quite windy and there was a lot of dust landing on the paintwork. I was a bit paranoid that I might scratch the finish so I elected to quit early and put her to bed.



W A Chasser

Bill,

I have an original, used toe board. Email if interested.

Frank
F Filangeri

Frank. Thank you for the offer. I received one on Friday in really nice condition but it’s missing a D nut. I’m going to order a replacement nut from FTFU in the morning and media blast the toe board to get it ready for paint.
W A Chasser

Making some progress the last few days. The fender welt I had sprayed SSG with the flex agent failed. I went to the shop that had done the interior on TD-4834 looking at their books for an alternative. No joy but then the owner and I went looking through his remnant rolls and found an unopened NOS roll of a greenish vinyl that had been on the shelf for over 50 yrs. The manufacturer doesn’t even exist anymore. I waited while he made me some new pieces.

Began with the left side together today. The rear fender is done and the front wing needs to come back off to trim the skirt behind the suspension crossmember. I’ll need to take a 1/4” x 1” wedge off the lower corner so the back of the fender drops down to align the bolt holes.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151



W A Chasser

Pic


W A Chasser

Making some progress The front wings are now mounted after having to take a 1/4” wedge cut out of the skirting that bolts to the frame rails behind the front suspension X member I had made the mistake of loosely pre-fitting the sheetmetal prior to sending the panels to paint. Because of my laziness I didn’t notice the interference early on. After taping the area I took my straight cut tin snips (not Duck Bills) and took a 1/4” wedge cut from the skirt. By taping the area to be trimmed I could mark my line and make the necessary modification without damage the paint surfaces. After deburring the edge the wings were installed satisfactorily. I should have expected this when installing a set of NOS wings but didn’t take it into consideration at first glance.

The radiator shell and grill have since been removed to install a rechromed shell I picked up from a seller on eBay. When I offered the slats to the replacement shell I found the stud placements to be misaligned. If I can find it, I have a a very large antique soldering iron that was used for lead bodywork and will attempt to use it to correctly reposition the offending studs

With the apron now installed the front of the car is beginning to take shape.

I have also had time to do some straighten a minor warble in the original toe board I recently acquired and plan to media blast it tomorrow in preparation for paint or powder coating.
W A Chasser

sorry pic didn’t load


W A Chasser

Bill: Looking great. A question and a comment.

Where did you get your early air cleaner decal so I can put the source on the web page? Did you go with a silver background or white?

On your grill slat studs. I think my car has a similar issue. While my grill fits to the studs I think it "tweeks" the shell when it gets mounted and this causes a gap between the front splash.

Always afraid to try to move these after chroming as I suspect I will discolor the shell in the process.

Maybe I should start a new thread on this instead of piling on here.
Christopher Couper

Unable to find my huge soldering iron or the soldering tip that fits my Benzomatic propane torch either at home or locally. I finally found one on eBay last night to fit my Benzomatic Super Torch. Should have by this time next week. So this weekend I will concentrate on the fuel tank pad issue and I can get the back end of the car assembled.
W A Chasser

I used to have two of these soldering irons too that I inherited from my dad. One was 3/8" and one was 3/4". I bet I threw them out years ago thinking I would never use such a thing. :-(
Christopher Couper

Chris. I could have sworn I just saw them within the last few months.
Will continue looking as I begin my spring cleaning. I can’t imagine tossing them out. I don’t throw tools away. Besides I still have half a box of lead solder bars for bodywork. It wouldn’t make sense to throw the irons out.

Bill Chasser
TD-4834
W A Chasser

I have one that I use quite often.
If you need it I can loan, but the shipping will be $$.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

The girls and I are mending from an auto vs bus accident on the 12th of Feb. We all got banged up but will heal. The bus driver decided I didn’t need the front of my HHR.

Beginning to make progress again on dads car. I painted another set of grill slats and installed them onto a rechromed shell. I had no luck in repositioning the shell studs so I elected to oblong holes in the slat frames rather than risk damage to the shell. Mounted the shell and laced it to the radiator. Bonnet tops and the left side panel installed. Right side panel will wait until I install another pair of copper fuel lines.

The toe board has been media blasted, primed, painted and is being baked with my UV lamp. I hope to get it and the floors installed over the weekend if the weather cooperates.







W A Chasser

Spent the last few days working in my dash board. I bought this engine turned dash veneer from Bob Grunau several years ago. The pre drilled mounting holes were misaligned between it and the new plywood dashboard. 3/16” and 1/4” wood dowels where glued into the offending holes. Once set the stubs were cut off and smoothed. Two more dowels were then installed in usable holes as a guide. Both the dashboard and veneer were liberally coated with upholstery adhesives and allowed to get tacky before the panels were mated. A rolling pin was then employed to flatten the veneer and drive out air pockets in the adhesive layers. The filled mounting holes were then redrilled to match the veneer. The perimeter of the two panels were then profiled to match using a belt sander. The tach and speedo holes then required further profile matching to allow the gauges to be installed.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151






W A Chasser

Once the profiles and mounting holes had been established the NOS center panel, gauges and switches were added. Reproduction starter and enrichener cables have been installed. I will have to get another set of accessory plugs or a repair kit. The set I have do not properly register or insulate the sockets from the center panel which will cause a short. I see replacement insulators on EBay for about $12 vs complete socket sets running about $60 from the usual venders. Along with these sockets I also need to order three dash board light sockets for early TD that support the lighting requirements for the chronometric instruments. I have LEDs for all the dash positions these lights definitely improved night time visibility in TD-4834 so I will add them to dads car as well.

I will be sending my NOS tach and speedo out to High Pite to have them both cleaned, oiled, the odometer reset and an issue resolved that occurred when the the gauges each got wonky when they were briefly used in my other car.

I have since added the lower perimeter beading to the dashboard and I need to add a 10° bevel to the top of the dash humps to match the scuttle profile allowing for a snug fit of the welting. The glove box door veneer had to be removed when I discovered that the ball latch is slightly offset that only allows the beading to be installed in one direction. It took me a day to carefully cut away the adhesive without distorting the veneer. Then using lacquer thinner to carefully remove all traces of the adhesive from the door and the veneer This is a dicey operation because if the door was saturated with thinner it could delaminate the plywood layers. The door was then sanded and repainted chassis black on the backside. Once the veneer is glued back into place I can get the perimeter beading and hinges installed on the door after pre drilling pilot holes for the screws. The finishing screws do not allow a heavy handed torque applied to them. The heads are easily destroyed if pilot holes are not made.



Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151



W A Chasser

I am excited that there is another engine turned dash on a group members car.
I was beginning to feel mine was out of place.

I like them. I have always wanted one, but my wife has MD and it blinds her.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

I thought I would give it a try. It may end up on my mantle if it is too distracting. I drive with my hood up on most sunny days to prevent wind and sun burn so I’m not expecting to be blinded by it. I also have the original rexine wrapped dash board at the ready just in case.
W A Chasser


The last few days I’ve made some progress. The hard fuel lines to the pump have been routed. The piping for the front apron was changed out because it didn’t form the 90° bend well and the apron secured. The front bumper assembly is now installed along with the light bar and one SFT 562. Apparently I never ordered the second one. Installed the bonnet latches and bumpers on the right side, installed the firewall brace and radiator struts, installed the carb and air pipe assembly. Working on the front registration plates bracket so I can install the original 1951 CA registration later today. The headlight brackets are now secured to the wings and radiator. All in all a good day


Also dads registration plate was mounted above the bumper originally. Does anyone have a similar mounting position that can share what the bracket may have looked like?

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151






W A Chasser

How about this product to seal and protect your chassis earths, functions fine on battery terminals.

Permatex-battery-protector-and-sealer---141g

If you want total engine ignition reliability you cannot go past connecting an earthing conductor directly from the battery earth terminal to one of the head rear blanking plate bolts, your ignition spark quality will be enhanced and there is no exposure of terminals to road grime.
G Evans

Front registration location on dad’s car


W A Chasser

Bill, the first image is my PO taken circa 1974 in San Diego. The second image is the day I took delivery of the car in South Carolina in 2012. SC doesn't require a front tag and, unfortunately, I don't remember how the CA tag was attached to the car. I still have the tags and the chrome frame.

Jud





J K Chapin

If I mount the plate under the bumper it will get knocked off. I don’t want to rip a plate off and I’d like to run the originals.
W A Chasser

I doubt you will knock it off Bill. If you hit something that high it will take the sump out as well.





L E D LaVerne

If I was to mount it High I would get it off to the side as your dad did so it doesn't restrict air to the radiator





L E D LaVerne

LaVerne. I will damage the plate getting the car in and out of my trailer. Ask me how I know ...

W A Chasser

If you need chrome 50's wide plate license frames I snagged some a few years ago at So-Cal Speed Shop at 1715 Del Paso Blvd.
Christopher Couper

Thanks Chris. I’m still on the hunt for Oxford Motors ,Sacramento frames
W A Chasser

Bill. The car I saw in the movie "Teenagers From Outer Space has the plate in the same location as your dads. I would think there may have been an aftermarket bracket in the 50's that allowed this mounding.


Bruce Cunha

More research will be needed regarding the front registration plate bracket. Jake Roulstone sent me some factory publicity photos that show plates being mounted in the same position on some very early TDs. Or being used to hold “Rally” plates.

I began trial fitting floorboards and tunnels on Friday. Minor trimming at the front will be required before the installation is complete. I plan to have this accomplished over the weekend. I do have a question regarding the rubber seal Between the floor board and peddle box that is held in place with 1/4 BSF hardware. What exactly was used, ie flathead screws under the floor board or over the floorboard? Bolts with flat and lock washers? The floor boards are not drilled nor are they relieved on the underside for the head of a bolt. Can anyone shed some light on this?

Bruce Cunha has been kind enough to seek out the 3/16 x .312 tapered aluminum rivets locally to his area from Fastenal. If he has success in that regard I should have a box of rivets shortly so that I can install the running board strips. Then I can go back to fitting the boards and securing my wings and mud guards. If not I’ll try to order from Grainger

I’m having difficulty with the tire rack and fuel tank mounting when the rack and straps are laid over the tank the clamps that secure the rear Registration plate arm and end cap on the opposite side are fouling the tank. I am unable to draw the top of the tire rack onto the tub Further thought on the matter is required to determine a solution.

Someone had asked how I made my tubing bends at the fuel pumps and tank. Although I have tubing benders and can free form much of the routing I found that my commercial benders would deform the tubing in the process. After several attempts with negative results the solution was to use the lid from a scented candle glass jar. The lid has a nifty groove that fit the tubing diameter perfectly. I then used the lid to form most of my curves with slight to no deformity whatsoever. The radius worked quite well to make the tighter bends around the pump housings. ( pic of the jar top below ).



W A Chasser

Bill,
As to your fuel line bending episode, I like the way your brain works!
Regards,
Jim
James Auer

Though I didn’t spend a great deal of time in the 100° heat today good progress was made.

Floors are done, driveline tunnel, E brake lever and cables installed carpet glued to the tunnel, foot rest and trans inspection cover carpet glued and trimmed.

Tomorrow the plan is to install the trans tunnel and and trim the rest of the carpeting and locate the seat frame t-nuts and the T-nuts in the floors around the transmission, then to paint the boot floors black.


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060






W A Chasser


My rivets and washers arrived yesterday. The FTFU order arrived this morning but I only received 2 speed bleeders instead of two pkgs. so I’ll have to reorder again. Still waiting for my Moss order to show up via UPS. It should have been here on Saturday. I hate being sidelined waiting for parts to show up.

Yesterday I mounted the running board strips and rubbers. I used blind tapered rivets instead of the solid rivets as originally equipped. Basically I went this route because I could install them easily as a one man operation and not damage my paint finish. I simply don’t have enough hands to help steady the running board over a form held in a vice and simultaneously Peen solid rivets in place. With the tapered rivets the rubbers installed in the slats with ease.

The temps have been over 100° the last few days. Too hot for me to be under the enclosure. It’s like being in a sauna. I already had heat exhaustion during last weeks restoration escapades.

I have been in contact with Jim Silva in San Leandro CA regarding getting ion his waiting list for final trimming of the upholstery. I hope I will be ready by the end of July for him to get started. He has recommended that I send him the bucket seats in advance so that they can be finished and ready when the car arrives. Further contact will be made in the coming days to work out the details. I’m looking forward to seeing his craftsmanship.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151






W A Chasser

Hi Bill. The running boards look stunning. It's getting bloody cold here now so I envy your shorts and T shirt weather. Your mention of bucket seats has me intrigued though... Squabs (seat bases?) and a bench back was the go with TD's was it not?
Keep posting pics mate. Apologies for not contacting you re the feature for the June TTORC issue but we did have it covered. You should receive it by the 15th. Maybe you could pen something for the December issue as October is being written at the moment? Looking good Bill. :-) Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

The running boards look great and was probably the best way to go. Plus nobody but Bruce C is going to crawl under there to look. :-)

But actually it's really easy to install the solid rivets with one person. You just need a good solid vice and a flat mandrel that is just narrow enough to slip into the groove of the strip.

First you tape the strip in place with painters tape so you don't have to hold it in place or worry about scratching your paint. Just leave blank areas where the rivets will go and do one at a time.

Then grab a rivet, push it into the hole from the top, invert and place the rivet over the mandrel. Then a smart tap from the top to spread the rivet, rinse and repeat.
Christopher Couper

Well, I ended up not being happy with my seat bases so I started over. Once I was happy with the layout I decided to make a template which I will keep for the future. I can now easily duplicate the work in making two more for dad’s project. I will also make drawings of all the metal work so I can fabricate those pieces in the future should I decide to make a few sets. I should have this all finalized by Monday so I can make arraignments to hand deliver them to Jim Silva for leather trimming

Yesterday, I finally picked up my freshly powder-coated rims after three attempts by American Stripping to get them right. The first time they had a mottled appearance depending how the light hit them. The second attempt had an issue regarding a low static charge and the powder fell off the rims when the cart they were being transported into the oven hit a bump and knocked some of the powder off. Third time was the charm and they look great ! I then took them and my Dunlop’s mounted on the old rims over to the tire shop this morning to have the tires swapped around. They are ready to be hung back on the car this evening once it cools off outside and I have a moment to take care of DOT5 brake fluid leaks. I have speedi-bleeders I bought from FTFU to install and then bleed the brakes. Hoping I won’t need to bench bleed the MC again after the fluid had leaked out, although I expect I will need to. The handbrake cables are now secured to the suspension and wheel cylinders The links for the Girling and Andrex dampers are now installed as well.

I bought split pins, wave and flat washers and now have new medallions and hub caps assembled.


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060






W A Chasser

Yea! I didn’t have to bench bleed the MC. I have no more leaks at present and I have a firm peddle again. I still have a few items to button up on the rear suspension and then I can get the car back on four wheels

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151


W A Chasser

Yesterday I travelled up the hill to Bruce Cunha’s house to see his TD restoration progress. It’s moving along nicely and I expect he will be getting close to putting color on the car in a couple of months time. He was kind enough to donate a much needed batch of BSF lug nuts that I needed for dads car. I also picked up a correctly date coded ignition coil for TD/c-16920. I’m still collecting pieces for it even though I’m likely to sell it soon as a restoration project. I just don’t think I have the the health or energy to take on another restoration at this point.

I then stopped by Lawrie Alexander’s to pick up a few more lug nuts and a LTD installation tool that I had bought from Moss which came to me with several pins broken off.

The seat base template made for quick work in producing two more seat frames for dads car. All that is left to do is to counter sink holes for the T Nuts with a Forstner bit. Then urethane the wood and set the T Nuts into place. Then I will strip one of the seat backs so I can make patterns for them as well for a later use.

Diva dog day for the girls. Baths and grooming which will occupy my day so I doubt I will get much accomplished on the car. Hoping to get started with sorting out the fuel tank mounting issues this evening once it cools down outside.

I bought two new repop overriders in separate auctions on EBay last night so I can finish the rear bumper subassembly. I got tired of waiting for Moss to back fill an order I made in December. They will arrive early next week.


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060
W A Chasser

Quote;
and a LTD installation tool that I had bought from Moss which came to me with several pins broken off.
End Quote:

I also purchased one of those. Although it arrived with the pins/prongs intact, three quickly broke off.
I was using nit on the Tonneau with a piece of soft plastic fake wood under it.
I called Moss and told them they had a heat tempering problem.

I did not ask for a replacement or refund.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

At nearly $80 if I remember right I wasn’t going to eat the cost. It was still in its sealed packaging so I never had a chance to use it. Thank you for the info though. I will be cautious when using it.
W A Chasser

Ok, got to ask. What is an LTD installation tool?
Bruce Cunha

Its a punch that cuts 4 slots correctly positioned for the LTD assembly.

https://mossmotors.com/punch-lift-the-dot

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

Lift the dots for the tonneau cover and carpet
W A Chasser

IIRC last time I installed LTD female parts I would use a pencil to mark the center of the stud and then use the slotted piece to mark each tab place. Then use a pointed X-Acto knife to put in the cuts for each tab as marked. Then pushed in the studded part, slip over the slotted member, place on a 2x4 covered in a T-Shirt and wacked it with a rubber mallet to flatten the studs. Might have to tap them slightly in the correct direction first with a tack hammer.

You would have to install a lot of these LTD snaps to pay for that tool at $80 IMHO.
Christopher Couper


Finally, I finished assembly of the first seat base and it is ready for trimming. The second base is drying after two coats of clear urethane and the assembly will be completed this evening. They will be ready for transportation to San Leandro and Jim Silva’s upholstering magic.

Sorry the pics are rotating for some reason and I’m unable to correct it

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151







W A Chasser

Bill: Did you duplicate the bases from the original or did you put the holes in where you thought it made the most sense?

I ask because if original, the bucket seats ventilation is drastically different than the regular seat bottoms.




Christopher Couper

Bill, Are they seat belt attachments allong the edge of the seat base. First time I have seen something like that.

The usual method is to secure seat belts to chassis or chassis attachments.
Stuart
Stuart Duncan

Thank you both for your observations.

Chris. The bases are not true to the original. I have deviated from their design using the dimensions of the bucket seat bases as a starting point. The vent holes should be slotted but are in the correct position as used in the std TD bases. I opted to punch holes in the plywood rather than slot them because it leaves a cleaner look given the tools I had on hand. I made several previous attempts to plunge cut between the holes with my Skill saw but was unhappy with the results when trying to clean the edges with wood files. I don’t have a router to properly reproduce the slots.

The original bucket seat base consisted of 4 individual 1” ash timbers lap joined at the corners with an open bottom that supported a box spring. I did not like the support it provided so I chose to salvage a set of bolsters from an old pair of std seats. I am saving the original configuration of the box springs for safe keeping. Because the original std seat base was 1/2” plywood and I’m using 1” Baltic birch, it compensates for the timbers it replaced. I used a Forstner bit to countersink the T Nuts into the plywood to use the BA screws that secure the seat slides. These are the eight perimeter holes you may be questioning (?) The bolsters are then installed in the correct location for the use of the std TD seat squabs. I have the original Dunlop manufactured squabs but they aren’t in the best shape and they will likely only be used as a pattern. I’ll let Jim make that determination when I confer with him.

Stuart, the bracketry (painted black) are the original side plates that support the back rests. I agree with your observations. They do not function as seat belt attachments. I saw no indication that lap belts were ever installed into the chassis and I have not welded in provisions for them beneath the driveline tunnel. Since this car will not likely see track time I opted not to fabricate securing points for competition belts onto the chassis. I may change my thinking on this at a later date.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151

W A Chasser

This is what mine looked like. I made a drawing of it.
Regards
Declan





Declan Burns


Had a good day today. Both seats are ready. I soldered the ferrules on the fuel lines at the tank. The fuel tank and tire rack are now mounted and the fuel lines are plumbed to the tank with that I decided to quit for the day while on a good note.

Tomorrow will concentrate on the running boards, right mud guard, rear wiring pigtail, rear apron and bumper assembly. That may be a bit ambitious but it something to strive for.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151


Why are pics posting sideways? They are viewed correctly on my iPhone



W A Chasser


Wow this 100° heat is kicking my ar*e. I could only work in 20-30min spurts before I had to cool off. Progress today consisted of the right side running board and mud guard installation. Nothing went together easily which seems to be the recurring theme with this car. I still believe dad is looking down and has his hand in the shenanigans that the car is putting me through. Also, not having an extra set of hands leaves me more than a bit paranoid that I’ll damage the paint finish.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151






W A Chasser

I took some 1/8” Baltic Birch plywood and patterned new bolsters for the seat bases. After soaking the boards for a couple of hours in a bucket of warm water I was able to slowly clamp the pieces onto the ramps and as the material began to dry I used 3/4” 18 gauge staples to secure them together. I’m taking the bucket seats to the trimmer’s tomorrow to be covered in leather and vinyl. Looking forward to seeing them completed in the coming weeks.

The rear apron is installed, the rear bumper assembly finally made it onto the car as well but I have an issue with the overriders. Both were bought as new, but individually from two different eBay auctions. I’ve had them on B/O with Moss since early December and with no expected delivery date I got tired of waiting. Both supposedly came from Moss but they have slightly different profiles, one the backside is painted silver while the other is chrome, and both take a 3/8-24 bolt. When the parts line starts flowing again I will reorder one and see what I get. But the good thing is the back end of the car’s body panels are completed.

I still have a few things to button up. Mainly, the exhaust system, Oil temp gauge installation, wiring, dashboard mounting, trans tunnel and the steering column mounting, lighting, and underdash wiring pigtails to make maintenance an easier exercise. The Windshield will need to come back off to replace a side nut plate strip within the framework. All this should be done by the time the seats are ready and I can the. Deliver the car to have the rest of the interior , tonneau and hood fitted.

I’m beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151






W A Chasser

I had a good meeting with Jim Silva and we now have a game plan in place. Lead time on the seats will be about four weeks by the time he obtains current leather swatches, a decision is made, the material arrives and the trimming completed. That should give me plenty of time to have the work on the car completed.

Jim has already stripped the seat backs and did some investigating. The seats were apparently recovered sometime after 1956 with an American made vinyl which was consistent with my thoughts on the seats covers. This was after dad had sold the car back to Oxford Motors in trade for the 100M. The MK II was his daily driver, never garaged and the leather seats were probably in poor condition at that point. The back rests are sheet metal and quite rusty and the riveting is in poor condition where the rest attaches to the hinge points. I’m going to ask him to take pics for me. While there I was able to peruse his MG collection that was at the shop.

Thank you Jim for taking on my project ! I know it will be in good hands.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

My meter lengths of color coded wire arrived from British wire today. Tomorrow I’ll go and purchase a couple of micro pin connectors and extend the under dash wire once we get a break from our severe heatwave. This is out seventh consecutive day of +100° heat. The forecast calls for another 9 day’s of temps upwards to 111°. On top of that we had severe thunderstorms at night that have touched off at least a 1/2 dozen wildfires in the region with little containment. The valley is choked once again with smoke and ash as it has been the last few summers in Northern California. The smoke and heat has driven me indoors so I haven’t made any discernible progress lately.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

Parts arrived from Moss today. I’m hoping this will be the last order from them to finish the car. Super dry jet seals, strip kit for the side curtains, screws for the side curtain brackets, headlight guards and a floorboard hardware kit (to rob the screws from for the boot floor).

I made an additional wire and waterproof connectors order from British Wire yesterday. Connectors are out of stock so I ordered a few 14-20 AWG 9-pin connectors from a vendor on Amazon. All should arrive late next week.

This picture was taken at 10am Wednesday morning . The smoke was much worse yesterday . I’m in bad shape and have been wheezing badly. Staying indoors as much as possible but the smoke permeates the house as well. Even my dogs have not been tolerating the smoke well. I wish we could get out of the area for awhile but it’s not feasible for us. There’s nowhere we could go to escape the smoke. I feel for the people and animals that are in the fires path. So much destruction and loss. Thankfully, there have been only three deaths associated with the current fires in CA unlike the tragedy of the Paradise fire last year. A PG&E lineman assisting first responders died while clearing downed live wires, a contract helicopter pilot crashed and an unknown person was found along a roadway. Not to mention the livestock and wildlife. We currently have 11 major fires within 100 mi of us and none have containment lines established The state has all of its firefighting resources on the front lines and they are spread too thin to be effective. The largest and closest fire to us has consumed 137,000 in three days with zero containment.

Im hoping the air quality will improve so I can get something, anything accomplished. I have a full page list to complete before I can take the car to San Leandro.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151



W A Chasser

Bill: Stay out of that stuff. It's nasty all the way up where Bruce and I live although last night was the first time we could open a window without gagging.

It's supposed to be better in a few days, but we'll see.
Christopher Couper

It's looking great, Bill. Can't wait to see it on the road!! We get past this heat, smoke, pandemic. We're golden
Keith Yarbrough(TD 1275)

Chris, I’m trying my best to stay on task but I must admit I’m losing the battle when it comes to working outside for any length of time. I e got to keep some sort of forward momentum on this project. I can’t afford to let this stall again. I’m now four years behind schedule on this car. I’d like to be done with the restoration by end of October. I will need to get the car down to Jim Silva’s for trimming in about three weeks I managed to get the battery installed and began getting the trans tunnel in position. I’m having a difficult time getting the holes lined up between the floorboards tunnel and inner support rails. I should have it completed sometime today. My main goal this weekend is to get the engine prepared for a start up. I’m still waiting for my micro pin connectors to be shipped from Amazon. British Wire sent out my additional wire order yesterday but I forgot to order wire for my reverse light. I will have to get that coming as well. By next weekend I should be able to finish the wiring harness connections.

Keith, always good to hear from you. I’m ready for a drive in TD-4834 once the air clears up. Keep in touch. Stay well.
W A Chasser

Micro pin connectors arrived today. USPS says there is a delay on delivery of my additional wire from British Wire

Over the weekend I worked on getting the engine fired. I took the kids off the carbs and cleaned out some light corrosion that set in after being dry for the last 4 years. Wiped clean installed the lids. Primed the fuel system checking for leaks. All was well until the jets began to weep. I then pulled the jet assemblies both have the SU Teflon seals top and bottom. Since they are weeping I replaced them with single nitrile O rings obtained from Moss. Still leaking. I think I used a double stack of Orings on TD-4834 but I’m fuzzy on this. Thought I would try to start it anyway as it was very minor. No joy. Although fuel was in the bowls no fuel appeared at the bridge in either carb. These were restored many years ago prior to my ownership and first run about 4 years ago when I first fittest fired the engine. They have sat ever since. After fiddling with them in situ the entire day I gave in. Now to pull the carbs and soak them in Berryman’s. Then blow out all the passages and reseal them. These also have what may be the Grosse (?) seats in the float bowls. Not sure what they are but they are a ball bearing encased in a brass seat. I’ve heard these can be problematic so I’m on the hunt for original needle and seats in my spares to replace them unless someone has some constructive comments to otherwise change my thought process.

The trans tunnel is bolted to the firewall but the screws won’t align to the rails because of floorboard interference. I will get out the Dremel with a rotary hog bit and clean out the offending plywood materials. Geez I hate working under the dash. I don’t bend and get up from the floor so well anymore, lol. Once the wire arrives I can then finish the harness and terminate the connections to the dash grub screws and do a final fitting of the dashboard.

I also need to locate the holes for the plywood floor in the boot area. Seems like these came predrilled before. There doesn’t seem to be any consistency when it comes to timber and plywood construction from the major supplier. This is going to be a bit problematic now that the tub is fitted to the chassis.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151

W A Chasser


Been slow since my last posting. Last Wednesday the girls ( my service dogs) and I got broadsided in my Crew cab PU. The hit was so violent that it ripped the rear differential out of the truck. Sarah hit the dash board and Maddie was in the back seat hammockAnd made contact with the back of the front seat and door. I went via the meat wagon to the hospital. A CT scan was negative and I was released late in the day. The girls went to the vet for check ups. Thankfully other than getting shook up a bit they were okay. I’m dealing with more headaches, neck back, hip and ankle pain. Hoping the truck can be saved without going to salvage but it’ll be a close call as to whether it gets totaled. I’m just glad we weren’t in the MG or we wouldn’t be here to write about it.

Slowly trying to get back on dads car. Yesterday worked on installing the welting around the scuttle for the dashboard. Finished the wiring connections on the main harness and dash pigtails. Drilled the dash and subdash for the oil temp gauge. I went through three hole saws just getting through the stainless engine turned dash veneer. Need to finish the gauge light wiring, dash grounds And the accessory plugs.

Today I set the dash in place but will need to adjust the welting for a proper fit before I screw the dash in place. I am very close to having this part done. I had to raise the car and remove the Bell tailpipe as it interferes with the side curtain box. Something is very wrong with this pipe as no matter how it is rotated there is no position where it doesn’t foul the bottom of the box. I spent the rest of the day fitting the side curtain box and the boot floors. I have several mounting holes left to drill in the right floor section and then holes to secure the center panel in place.

Jim Silva informed me early last week that the English hides finally arrived from the UK. It only took about five weeks from the time it was shipped to make it to California. He said that he planned to start trimming them this week. Looking forward to their progress. I’ve asked him to take pics. I will likely start another thread on the upholstery work if he takes the time to document the work done. Jim is well known in the MG community here on the west coast and I have no doubt this will look fantastic when completed.


Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151






W A Chasser

Glad you are reasonably OK. May be best if they total your truck? Car looks beautiful! Did you try flipping the pipe end for end? I recall something about that. There have been a lot of posts about that issue in the past so try archive search too. George
George Butz III

I got an email from Jim Silva this evening. My seats are done !





W A Chasser

Seats





W A Chasser


This last auto accident has really caused me a lot of problems. I’m moving very slowly and it’s almost impossible for me to get up and down off my knees. Time has been quite limited working on the car but we are getting some things done. It’s taken me three days to finally get the scuttle to dash welting positioned properly. Perseverance, sheer determination and a half dozen attempts has it setting snug and I can say with confidence that the dash board is in place for now, but it will need to come back out at a later date. I somehow knocked one of the light mountings off the center switch panel and I will have to completely disassemble it and solder it back into place which will likely mean I’ll have to try and match the original paint in order to respray it. Drat!!! But it won’t prevent me from driving the car at some point it just means I won’t have dash lights for now.

I’m having to back peddle in other areas as well. I didn’t take notice of my needed gaps between the door framing and floorboards for the interior panels to set between. Thus it will require the floorboard’s removal to do some additional trimming. My head is so scattered at the moment that I’m not paying close attention to my work. Crawling under the dash to remove screws is going to be excruciatingly uncomfortable unless anyone has an idea on how I can make a clean cut without pulling the boards.

I managed to get the right side rear tub mount fastened down And all the right mud guard hardware snugged up. When I first installed the guard I couldn’t get one lousy bolt started because the hole wouldn’t line up. Somehow after being on the car for several months the hole came into alignment and the bolt threaded into place without modification. At least that went well.

Now to pull the left rear wheel and loosen the mud guard so I can fit the running board and drill the rearmost hole in the rocker. I had the hole metal sprayed prior to the tub being assembled to repair some corrosion issues. I also will need to drop the Andrex damper to get to the tub mounting on this side as well. Basically, when that has been accomplished all the necessary work will have been completed for Jim Silva. He can then complete the interior installation. If I only had a tow vehicle.

The body shop has told me that they will be able to repair the truck and have submitted the repair order to my insurance company. But there is a hitch. I have aluminum running boards that run the length of the truck and bed. Dee Zee who made the kit no longer offers them and won’t make replacements. Which doesn’t make me very happy at the moment. The entire left side of the bed will have to be replaced. The rear spring stack was broken, the driveline bent when it hit the ground, tires, dually fender etc. the bed is currently off the truck. Thankfully the frame is straight with no damage. Surprising. Guess I can be thankful that the spring stack broke. Shop estimates repairs will take two weeks once they get the okay.


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060






W A Chasser

Bill.

Could you use an oscillating saw to cut the floorboard? I use mine for a lot of fine cutting. You would be able to get it into the side panel area, and if you can draw the amount you need to cut, A small straight blade or even a 3/4 round blade should be able to cut it.

If you don't have one, I can bring mine down to you this week.
Bruce Cunha

Bruce. I’m not sure I know what an oscillating saw is? I don’t possess this. I need to scrub off an 1/8” - 3/16” in some spots. If that can be done in situ by simply lifting the board off the main rails it would be very helpful. I’m not looking forward to pulling the boards completely out of the car to trim them at this point. It would be a real PITA...given my current abilities. I’ can work on other areas in the meantime. I still need to get the left running board fitted. Do you have any extra grub screws for a brake switch. I installed a new switch but noticed it didn’t have any screws to secure the wires. I looked through my spares and old parts but couldn’t come up with any. I may have to order another switch.

I bought a new starter switch cable clamp (source unknown) Only to find that the sleeve isn’t drilled to the correct dimensions to fit either the rod rod in the switch or the cable. I can’t imagine how that occurred but I need to figure out how to correct this or find another clamping device.

I also have a NOS back up light switch that I would like to install but I am uncertain where this should be located on the transmission case. There appears to be two locations where a switch may go. I base this observation on both the transmission case and the relief bulges on the transmission tunnel. Anyone have insights as to the correct location and correct wire routing and color codes?

On another note. I am close to being able to mount my Smiths & Sons HMV 100 radio into the glove box area. I need detailed pics of the actual mountings beyond the L brackets on either side of the glove box door opening. I have never seen any actual bracketry beyond the illustration in the radio literature and it is unclear what is actually needed. If anybody who has one of these radios installed or the necessary bracketry out of the car that can photograph their under-dash installations It would be greatly appreciated. I will start a new thread to revisit this question or pull up the old thread if I can find the previous discussion.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

Hi Bill. Not allowing sufficient clearance so as to be able to remove the floorboards without removing the interior trim is a common misstep. I've lost count of the number of times I've had to take two steps back in order to go one forward. Keep plugging away. We're all with you! But mate you've got to stop banging into things. :-) It's not doing you or the dogs any good. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

I’m not banging into things. Things are banging into me! Driver came flying out of a private driveway. All I saw was the hood off her car as it passed by the back door of the truck. When she hit me she spun 180° back across the roadway over a ditch and into a concrete privacy wall. I had absolutely no time to react to Sarah from hitting the dash. I’m more concerned for the girls than I am for myself. And I just get so mad at all the distracted drivers who don’t concentrate on the task at hand.
W A Chasser

I know Bill. I've been following your misfortunes. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Thanks to my neighbor for the use of his oscillating saw. What would have taken me 4-5 hrs to R&R my floors I got done in 30 mins total. Now I have a 1/4” gap between the floors and the tub timbers. The interior panels will fit properly when the time comes without further ado

Next up is fitting the left side running board


Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

Yea! I got the left side running board installed but I ran out of daylight to cinch it down. That will finally complete all the body panels.

My To Do list is getting shorter by the day


Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151


W A Chasser

Left running board and left rear tub mounting done. I got the wheel and tire assembly back on. Cut to length the starter pull, drilled out the undersized holes in the replacement cable to solenoid clamp and completed the connection. Found my 35&50 amp fuses to install in the fuse block. That was all I could handle today.

Tomorrow, I have to find a couple of spare micro pins to complete three wires for the amp gauge supply, and the Hi-Lo wires from the headlight switch. I still need to find grub screws for the brake switch. Once that is done all the wiring will be completed. Hope to try and start the engine on Sunday.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

Electrical gremlins thwarting my progress yesterday. No Joy
W A Chasser

Well, the past three days I have been trying to power up the electrical system and I am not having much joy. I can get no power beyond the ignition switch hot wire. My (what was thought to be a NOS) ignition switch turned out being a bodged switch in an original box. I think someone had replaced a bad switch and re-boxed the old one. The switch has had a dodgy repair made to it and consequently it has failed. So now I’m on the hunt for a early replacement unit with a MRN keyset and without the window. In the meantime I had FS keys made for a used spare ignition switch I have and swapped them out. Still no joy regarding powering up the harness. But now I no longer have current leakage within the switch. With the switch in the “ON” position I have power to the white iG wires but still nothing works. No coil, no pumps, no lights etc. so now to work from the fuse block. The contacts for the fuses were cleaned, new fuses installed and still no joy on any circuits. I have a good ground from the battery to the tub and had a good ground from the engine to the chassis. But the latter I will reinvestigate as the starter no longer works as well. Isn’t chasing electrical gremlins fun? I could do without the early trick or treat. Lol

Also today, I will purchase a 1/2” plywood sheet of Baltic Birch to fabricate a nicer set of boot panels that fit properly. Once the boot panels are completed I’m going to send the car to San Leandro so that Jim Silva can trim the interior, hood and tonneau. I’ll continue to work out the gremlins once I get the car back.


Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151

W A Chasser

Make sure fuses are not in 90 degrees or incorrectly installed, has happened before. Get a stick tester light and using diagram as a map, test each junction and connection on both sides. You will find it that was. Also check ground- cable to battery box area, strap from firewall to chassis, and harness to firewall near the battery box. George
George Butz III

Fixed my misaligned boot panel holes yesterday with dowel stock and wood glue. I also bought the sheet of 1/2” B B plywood and made new panels as well. But the repairs are solid in the older panel so I will go ahead and reuse them. With the left over plywood I will likely make a set of floors and offer them for sale.

Wiring be damned if I haven’t made headway on my gremlins, the car will be loaded Into the trailer along with supplies to be transported to Jim Silva’s shop on Saturday. Whatever is left to be done will be attended to once the car returns home.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

Hi Bill, I can help you with a restored MRN and NOS Wilmot Breeden Union key. One of the last original restored MRN switches that I have. I've sent you an email. This is what they look like after 70 years of use. The broken rim is not unusual caused by levering on the the bezel tabs. Most of the restored switches in the case have now been sold. Cheers
Peter TD 5801





P Hehir

I managed to finish 2/3rds of the time do list today. I still have a half dozen things to do before tomorrow night but I’m certain we’ll be on schedule.

I am frustrated though. The Moss windshield bracket to scuttle screws are too damn short. The oval head 1/4BSF X 2” screws barely work in the front two holes. The screw in the third hole doesn’t expose a single thread. I tried British Fasteners but no joy. Since the car would originally have a slot head screw instead of a Phillips head, i went hunting for an alternative. I found a 1/4”-20 x2 1/2” stainless steel oval slot on EBay. BINGO ! I ordered a package of 20 and they will be here by the 30th. I will then forward them to Jim for replacement before the side panels are installed. In the meantime, JIm should have plenty to keep him busy for more than a few days while waiting for the screws to show up.

Tomorrow, a quick trip to Home Depot to find some chrome SMS’s. Finish the “to do” list, a quick car wash, pack the car with product and load it into the trailer. That’ll probably be around 10pm lol.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

It’s been a dreadfully long day I did manage to get everything done on my list. The car got its first bath since the panels were painted in January. The past five months of wildfire ash, soot, smoke and dust had left a thick layer on the paint. I’ve got to say I love this paint job. It really pops in the sunlight.

Loaded the tub full of parts. I had a set of side curtains earmarked to be recovered only to realize today that they were for a 3 bow. So I’ve been frantically searching in the dark for my spares and surprised to find that I only have one set of 2 bow curtains. At least I found them.

Then I found out that my prepped door latch adjustment plates have disappeared. I gave up looking for them tonight. Will get up early and resume the search before and in desperation I steal them out of TD/c-16920

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151






W A Chasser

Car was safely delivered today. I got to see my buckets seats up close. They are absolutely gorgeous! Jim and I discussed details and I believe we have a game plan moving forward. I was told I’d have the car back before Christmas.
No worries though, I could use the break.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

Thought I would share a few pics supplied by Jim Silva last week.

Jim has started work on fitting and covering the tack strips. He has also installed the felt to the back board and has padded the wheel arches. Side curtain attachment points have been located. He has also begun locating the reproduction top bows which will require splitting the front rail and narrowing it approximately 1/2” to fit the windshield properly. While I was looking at an original 2 bow frame Here at the house I see where it had also been split and welded. Something I had never noticed before. I offered to ship an original 2 bow framework to San Leandro but Jim said he will make the necessary corrections to bring the repop framework into spec.

I’ve been waiting for a supply of 1/4-20 x 2-1/2” Stainless Steel oval head slot machine screws (say that three times fast) to replace the Moss supplied 2” long Phillips head screws for the windshield to scuttle mounts. Not only are the Phillips head screws incorrect for early TDs they are too short to get a nut on in the rearmost position. The new screws were sent to him on Saturday along with additional sundries that I forgot to send with the car. Once he can install the new mounting screws I’m presuming he will be able to proceed with the wheel arch covers and side panels.


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060






W A Chasser

Jim sent me some update pictures this evening. Thought I’d share them.





W A Chasser

2 more





W A Chasser

Looks like I will need a few more trips down to your place once I start my interior. That is beautiful.
Bruce Cunha

I have those slotted windshield mounting screws and latex tubing set aside for you.

I also have the latex tubing for Chris Couper. One of these days we need to coax him and his TD out of the darkness.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

Jim gave me an update last night. The boot area upholstery work is finished and the top bows have been positioned. He has been working on getting the door latches fitted properly which has taken some time to sort out. It seems I had installed the T nuts in the doors a bit out of position but now that I think back I believe the holes were predrilled and all I did was install the 2 BA T nuts. Whatever the case may be, Jim made the necessary fabrication modifications to compensate for their placement. I think he may have also moved the latch mechanisms closer to the edge of the inner door framework and the latch wedges won’t have a stack of washers behind them to make up for distance. The bottom line is the assembly will now present with a much cleaner appearance



W A Chasser

Jim gave me an update last night. The boot area upholstery work is finished and the top bows have been positioned. He has been working on getting the door latches fitted properly which has taken some time to sort out. It seems I had installed the T nuts in the doors a bit out of position but now that I think back I believe the holes were predrilled and all I did was install the 2 BA T nuts. Whatever the case may be, Jim made the necessary fabrication modifications to compensate for their placement. I think he may have also moved the latch mechanisms closer to the edge of the inner door framework and the latch wedges won’t have a stack of washers behind them to make up for distance. The bottom line is the assembly will now present with a much cleaner appearance

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151



W A Chasser

Today’s progress from Jim Silva





W A Chasser

I received a progress report from Jim Silva this evening.

All the interior fixings are completed. The side curtain frames have been fitted to the tub, the hood has been fitted to the tack strip. The header timber requires some additional shaping in the corners before the front of the hood is attached.

Jim invited me to come down and look it over. I’m anxious to sit in those beautiful seats. Depending on how I feel in the morning I may take a trip to look at the progress in person. I may even take my MG for some exercise weather permitting.

From the pics he has sent me it appears the work is coming along quite nicely. I’m looking forward to bringing the car home in a couple of weeks.


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060






W A Chasser

The header timber requires a bit of reshaping in the corners before the hood can be stretched into position.

Side curtain frames have been fitted into position

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151





W A Chasser

Took the 100 mi drive one way to Jim’s shop this AM. The progress pics don’t do the work Jim has done much justice. I’m very impressed with the fit and finish of the interior. I can honesty say that I have never seen an interior so well done. I sat in the restored bucket seats while I was there. I have about 4”s additional leg room vs the standard seating. The seats are also very comfortable, provide good back support and minimal lateral movement. I won’t be falling out of them during my spirited drives. Lol.

Jim explained to me in a little more detail that the header is too wide. Nearly 3/4” will need to be shaved of and the corners re-profiled for the canvas to fit correctly.

He expects to be done with the remaining work in about 3 weeks. I think I’m going to need a really big Christmas tree for my present to sit under.


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060
W A Chasser

More progress pics from Jim. Hand made side curtains from scratch. Templates made to fit this chassis. No kits used here.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151





W A Chasser

Left rear curtain completed





W A Chasser

Jim Silva sent me another progress report today. The side curtains are done except for one piece of stainless. Still waiting for Moss to ship parts ordered last Monday.

He is fitting the LTD snaps to the tonneau today. Robbins gets a fail on the strap positioning. Jim had to to relocate it so it would lay over the LTD stud at the front corner of the boot. He added a strap to the passenger side as well.

Robbins also gets a big fat fail for the spare tire cover. Not only because it didn’t have a cutout for the hubcap but it is ridiculously oversized and doesn’t fit the tire properly. Jim will be making a replacement in house.

Jim is quickly running out of things to do and it will be time to bring dads car back home once Moss comes through with the parts needed


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060
W A Chasser

Jim applies a tape line as a guide to outline how the new Robbins tonneau covers the scuttle and door. This is then used as a reference point when installing new LTD studs.

The second pic shows the tonneau from TD-4834 overlaid onto the scuttle. In conversation with Jim, I originally asked that the snap pattern matched my car so I could interchange tonneau covers if needed. The pattern of snaps in the second used existing studs on my car and probably was excessive. I didn’t bother with welding up the extra holes prior to its restoration. Jim prefers to use a minimal number of snaps and we decided that was preferable. Where TD-4834 used a total of 8 snaps across the door and scuttle TD/c-8151 will only use 4 snaps.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151






W A Chasser

With only one snap located on the front of the door. It provides a much cleaner appearance.

Robbins gets a fail on this tab which is suppose to engage the LTD stud. Jim will pull the stitching and relocate the tab to the correct location. No tab was present on the passenger side and he will add one to that side as well.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151





W A Chasser

Christmas came early. Once we get a clear day and I can get the bonnet back on the car I will take pictures. I can say with certainty Jim Silva’s work and his keen attention to detail is absolutely impeccable. I am extremely happy with the effort he put forth in fitting the interior and canvas. If you
are on the west coast, I highly recommend him.

He is currently working on an interior for a customer’s J2

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

Bill,

Nice work on the wet weather gear here.

I really liked seeing the rare and correct,original type solid,dome head (with ali washer) aluminium rivets securing the cloth to the rear sidescreen frames.

Congratulations on your TD rebuild.

Cheers
Rob Grantham

Rob Grantham

Thank you Rob. I forgot to add this pic to my previous post. Jim’s wife made the presentation bow. It was a thoughtful addition to my Christmas package. Wet weather has finally arrived in our region. Unless we get stretches of dry and sunny weather, I think the cars will be in total hibernation until spring before any further work is completed.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151


W A Chasser

Today was filled with anticipation. I decided to pull the car out of the trailer since we were having a sunny day. I worked on the electrical system briefly and now have power to the fuel pumps, ignition, lights, fuel and dynamo lights. All was good in my world. Primed the oiling system, carbs full of fuel and then.... nothing from the starter. After three pulls of the starter switch the crappy manufactured switch failed. Unbelievable the kind of luck I’m having. I just know dad is snickering from above. He’s been playing games with me on the restoration for four years. But I WILL get the last laugh!

I have to order a few final items to complete the car. Needing a turn signal switch( the mounting threads pulled), a flasher unit, side curtain stowage bags to keep my canvas clean, hardware for the motor mount (Moss fails to inform you the thread is different between the repops and the originals), a Halon extinguisher ( I will never be caught without one). I also need to inquire as to whether I can simply order a TT tailpipe section. I know mufflers can be had under warranty so maybe pipes are as well

My last order from them just before Thanksgiving holiday took 8 days from Goleta. 5 days to fill and 3 days to arrive. With the Christmas and New Years shortly upon us, I expect the order will arrive the the first week in January. I doubt our pleasant weather will continue to last. We are long overdue for significant wet weather patterns.


Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

After parting out three ignition switches I was able to make one good MRN keyed switch over the Christmas holiday. But I’m still on the hunt for more switch cores to rebuild. Bench tested the one I assembled and I had smooth operation and continuity at the various positions. Having a dry day yesterday, I swapped the MRN switch back into the dashboard. Hooked the battery up and .....nothing. Now that I’ve ruled out the switch it’s back to looking elsewhere. I will be looking for a poor ground next at either the battery box, bellhousing or chassis. I don’t know how I can have a all circuits working one day and then nothing the next. The fuses are good the contacts are clean and the fuses are fitted to the contacts correctly. I hate intermittent gremlins.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

Today was a pivotal moment for dad’s car. The engine finally came to life today. I ran it for about 20 minutes at 2500 rpm to break in the camshaft. Lowered the idle to 1200 rpm and balanced the carbs. Throttle response is a bit sluggish so I’ll need to put the timing light back on her and bump the timing a bit. Still, “she purrs like a kitten with a warm bowl of milk”. Now for a couple a dry days to put the car up on jack stands and go over the entire undercarriage with a fine tooth comb. Retighten all the fasteners, grease the suspension/driveline and adjust the clutch cable. Then it will be off to the alignment shop. The final touches will be installing the HMV radio, fitting the glove box door and installing the oil temp gauge in 200 miles when I dump the oil. It’s been a very long road but there is a light at the end of the tunnel.

I went to DMV a last week to renew my Commercial Drivers License. While there I made an attempt to reassign the original registration number to the car. I was disappointed to find out the number was reassigned to a pickup truck in the mid ‘70s. But DMV now shows that it has been in non-op status for 9 years and had a partial transfer started but never completed in Nevada. This tells me there are likely three scenarios. The truck ended up being scrapped and the plates weren’t returned, the truck is setting on a property somewhere and is derelict, or the truck is in use on a ranch somewhere. DMV won’t tell me who the plates are registered to so that I can ascertain whether I can reclaim the number for dads car. Disappointing

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0I-xg-VrU2Y
L E D LaVerne

Thank you Laverne for your editing prowess! Nicely done!

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151.
W A Chasser

Laverne, that was just great!! Thanks. Jud
J K Chapin

Another milestone today. Figured out the clutch cable adjustment. Sync’d the carbs. And started going over the undercarriage with a fine tooth comb. Looking for leaks, loose hardware, missing cotter pins etc. starting at the front of the car I got as far as the transmission mount before it was time to pick things up and put the car back in the trailer for the night. This time it went into the trailer under its own power. Those bucket seats fit like a glove. I’m looking forward to a drive soon. Found out that I need to reposition my motolita steering wheel on the hub as it is off by one screw hole...possibly two.

Cloudy tomorrow with more rain expected by Wednesday. Hopefully I can pull it out again if it’s not cold and windy.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

Spent the better part of 6 frustrating hours trying to change a R&P bellows. Then went through all my hardware looking for 1.25 thread count metric nuts that weren’t Nyloc’s for the repop tie rod ends and rear leaf spring front eye bolts. No joy trying to find them locally. Greased the chassis. Found that the tie rod seals were also cracked Yet another order to Moss and should have the parts by Friday

At the end of the day I took the car for a very brief 1/4 mile drive around the block. Clutch operates smoothly, transmission is quiet, and engine accelerated well. I don’t have the front Andrex links bolted to the frame. The front suspension is therefore like a standard TD at the moment. I was disappointed with the amount the car wallowed in the corners. I guess I’m spoiled with my anti sway bar in TD-4834.

I needed to replenish my Rivnuts. I ran out before I got them all installed on the scuttle.for my plinth mounted Aeroscreens I went to Grainger and picked up the what I needed but then I didn’t like the minute flange on them once I got home. I will take them back. Then I went to Uneac Fasteners and they had the flange I wanted but when I went to use them today I realized I pick up the wrong size. I should have just stayed in bed today. Lol

Plenty of little things to keep me busy until Monday and when the Moss order arrives hopefully midweek


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060
W A Chasser

This thread was discussed between 01/02/2020 and 25/03/2021

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