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MG TD TF 1500 - TD/c-8151 restoration update

My late father's TD/c restoration is moving forward. After complete disassembly the chassis was powder coated as well as all body panels as a base/primer in preparation of a repainted in SSG. All hardwarehas been cad plated, engine and trans had been rebuilt by a PO but was taken apart for inspection. Engine and trans installed the tub is being completely refitted with new timbers and the sheetmetal is close to being wrapped into place beginning this weekend

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

Progress has been slower than expected with fits and starts, oppressive hot weather, and smoke from fires over the summer.
After fitting timbers for the tub reconstruction. I found a milling error that I hadn't notice related to the latch pillar location on one of the A pillars. Since I had glued the frames up I was unable to correct the mistake and had to order new timbers. I had ordered a new set from THE BIG supplier and when it arrived found over 32 milling errors in ten pieces before even taking fine measurements. The kit was sent back as unacceptable. I then contacted Craig Seabrook at the Whitworth Shop and ordered a full set of the side timbers. A much better quality product with considerably less fettling to do. Lap joints at correct angles and at the correct widths and depths. Very happy with what I'm working with at this point and have now ordered door wood as well. No sense having a nice solid tub and fit loose sloppy doors to it. Currently getting the final fitting done on the latch and hinge pillars and will soon mount the frames onto the chassis and begin nailing the forward half of the tub back together

All body panels were stripped, metal sprayed where needed to fill in a few pin holes and then all was powdered coated in semi gloss expoxy as a base for paint.

The chassis was powdercoated and the running gear was disassembled for inspection. All the power train had been previously done by Mike Shea albeit 30 years ago with out ever being used. I was pleasantly surprised to find the engine to be still in excellent shape with no internal rust issue from in long hibernation. The trans is as new as Mike had put an entirely NOS gearset in place. The only used items being the original cases. I had found a bearing issue in the differential so it was refreshed by River City Differentials here in Sacramento. The chassis in now a complete roller with radiator, motor and trans in place.

Jerry's paint in Sacramento color matched the original SSG paint using a door as the sample. They did a superb job with the sample that was supplied and look forward to seeing color applied when the time comes

Picture of dad with TD/c-8151 circa late 1951



W A Chasser

Bill: Nice to hear the progress reports. Will love to see it soon.

BTW where did you get your CAD plating done in Sacto?
Christopher Couper

Hi Bill,

Congratualtions on all your work. It is relentless isn't it !? I am at a similar stage with the TF1500. Looks like you are doing the restoration/rebuild
to detail.

I like your referral to Cad. plating. The finish is so nice to see on a well restored car. The brighter zinc or pacified zinc plate (golder tinge) just does not look right IMHO.

Rob Grantham
TF3719("Aramis"),TF9177("Athos").
Rob Grantham

Finally forward progress in getting the paintwork done. Picked up the firewall today after having the underside painted SSG which has now been reformulated in a latex basecoat and urethane clear. Extremely happy with the results. Will let it cure for a few days in the 100°F plus temps and then reinstall it to the tub. Then I’ll struggle with fitting the doors and latches, tool box lid tabs and latches, mock up a windshield and mock up the plinth mounted aero screens drilling all the necessary holes. Also need to adjust the tire rack height while the tux is in the chassis. Then return the tub and rack to the paint shop and forget about it for four or five months. The shop already has the rest of the sheetmetal.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

Pic didn’t load. Trying again. Though the camera doesn’t capture the true essence of this color. Depending on the direction of the natural lighting this color will have a silver to greenish opacity. Its quite a pretty color IMHO. I can’t wait to see all the finished panels out together.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151


W A Chasser

Looking good Bill
Bruce Cunha

if you need an extra set of hands for anything, let me know
Keith Yarbrough(TD 1275)

Looking good!

Bright red interior I presume?

If so, that combo is gonna pop!!

congrats!

Frank

TF1414
Frank Cronin

Thanks Bruce and Frank. The pic really doesn’t show how the paint reacts to light. Yes it’ll have the original bucket seats, and panels trimmed in red. I’m not sure what I’m planning with the dash. I have an engine turned dashboard and I have another dashboard that I’m likely to cover in red. Will cross that bridge when I get further along. Kimber Creek will likely trim my seats or may be trimming the whole car if I decide to take a trip east to see family next spring.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

Hi Bill, You might contact Jim Silva at SureFit Upholstery in San Leandro... He does alot of T series work and is very good. Aidan TF8161
A Corwin

Thank you Aiden. Thank you for reminding me. I know of Jim’s work and he has been highly recommended in several occasions. and have talked to him on several occasions in the past. He is highly recommended and has done award winning interior restorations. I will talk to him as well since he is much closer to me , about 100 miles, vs shipping parts back east.


Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

Firewall installed , tool box lid positioned and mounted to repop toolbox. The tool boxes are a fraction wider than the originals that necessitate repositioning the latch tabs on the lid. The original tabs were removed, the existing hole welded closed and will be redrilled to position the tabs to fit the box. 1/8” x 1/4” solid steel rivets have been ordered to finish the job. Tool box latches will then be positioned and secured with the same rivets.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151




W A Chasser

Now waiting for hardware kits for the windshield, door latches and another set of door hinge hardware to arrive in a couple of days.

I had bought a set of plinth mounted Aeroscreens last year for this project. I began to mock them up to mount them. Hoping to mount them and still be able to use a full tonneau I found no joy. The plinths can’t be mounted low on the scuttle bulges because the base that the glass sets in fowls the bulge. This requires that they be mounted with the bases edge above the bulge putting the plinth in the path of a tonneau installation. So it appears the plinth mounts will go back in the box and I will be ordering a set of pedestal mounted Aeroscreens. I really liked the plinth design and wanted something different. But at this point I need to make a decision ... tonneau or plinths. Sideline that project for now...

When I built the tub I had planned to use my original doors and had set the jamb gaps accordingly. In my infinite wisdom I decided to tighten the gaps as they were quite wide and just looked sloppy. When I inspected the original door timbers they appeared to be intact. That was three years ago and since then the timbers began to decay. Last year, I painstakingly fitted new timbers trying to conform them to their original dimensions. I failed. With new hinges installed, I offered up the fully reconstructed doors to the tub and found interference at between the door framing and the front lower corners of the tub. So today the door timbers were removed from the left door that I had not crimped the skin back in place. The timber were screwed back together and along with the hinges were mounted back onto the tub. I should have started the door rebuilds in this manner in the first place. This morning I will take a compass and scribe a new gap line onto the timbers. Then begin to re profile the offending areas with planes and a belt sander until I get the necessary gaps. I’m shooting for 1/4” at the front and 5/16” along the bottom to accommodate the sill plate.

The moral of this story is when rebuilding a tub don’t skimp on the doors. Build the doors first and then fit them to the opening. It’s much easier than fitting doors to a finished tub. Hindsight is always 20/20.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151



W A Chasser

Progress update. The offending drivers door issues have been corrected. After taking several minor wedge cuts with sharp wood chisels I was able to adjust the bare framework to close fully in the tub opening. This allow the hinges the ability to swing closed without binding on themselves. When the door was first installed the hinges left the front to the door proud 1-15/16” of the quarter panel. Once the door closed flushed and using a drafting compass I then scribed a 1/4” mark along inner and outer aspects of the bottom door timber and extending around both radii. After removing the offending material I then repositioned the framework to check final fit. Happy with the clearances obtained it was now time to reinstall the timbers into the door skin. All had been secured but I then came onto another issue when the factory built the door too much material had been removed from the skin where the bottom rear radius meets the hinge cut out. When the door skin was originally crimped it barely caught the inner framework from the radius to the hinge cut out. I’m now fabricating pieces to extend the flanges using 22g sheet that will be butt welded into place making up the difference.

I can’t upload a pic at the moment. Some sort of site interruption going on will try later.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

After seven days and 38 hrs of work the drivers door has been reassembled and hung. Closes without hinge bind and and even gaps all around.

Passenger door has been stripped to bare timbers and hung in the tub. Now to repeat the process in scribing clearance marks on the bottom timber and radii for reshaping. This door should go much faster as only one hinge pocket will require attention to get the top of the door to move in less than an inch. This will only require 1/16” wedge to be removed from the pocket.

Went to mock up the door handle kit I received from Moss and now have another whole set of issues.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

I couldn’t get the pics to load last night. Here is the outer door fit. Now with the 1/4” gaps on the interior side the piping will seal the door and have a much cleaner interior look when done. This will also allow the silent block to properly engage the latch assembly without the need for excessive shimming of the wedge. I’m going to hold off on fiddling with the handle ands striker kits until I finish the right side door fitting accomplished.


W A Chasser

Bill

I notice you're rebuilding the tub on a picnic table. Aren't you worried about everything shifting once its on the frame knocking your door alignment out of whack?

Jonathan
TD/C 9606
J Cosin

Fantastic work Bill!

Frank Cronin

Hi John.
That is a noteworthy point, especially for others attemotimg to do a reconstruction. The picnic table is level. The tub’s final reconstruction was on a level chassis and the tub main, sill, A&B pillars were glued prior to re-skinning on the chassis after very careful measurements had been made. The door opening is quite rigid at this stage of the build. I pulled the tub from the chassis to make it easier for me to work standing straight. Stooping and squatting for long periods is difficult for me as I have severe chronic pain issues. It was out of necessity

Cheers!

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151

W A Chasser

After a week of thrashing in the passenger there was no joy. I now have to in crimp the door skin a third time and start from scratch. A new set of door timbers have been ordered from Craig Seabrook ( The Whitworth Shop) and will be shipped tomorrow. Hopefully this will be the final attempt to get the door fitted properly. I bodged the existing timbers in the door and rather than continuing to feddle with them, it’s time to try a do over. Thankfully Craig had a set in stock since he only gears up to make timbers a couple of times a year. I’m also going to buy another set of hinges as I had tweaked the right side early on in an attempt to compensate for a non issue. Back to the drawing board. At least I’ll now have a good reference points to measure from when fitting the timbers to the door opening.

Lessons learn by the school of sliced fingers and hard knocks.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

Moss Door hinges and Seabrook’s timbers arrived today. Now the fun begins tomorrow, yet again. Hopefully this will be the last time I have to do this.

Saving the old (new) timbers for another door reconstruction later. Maybe I can repurpose them.
W A Chasser

Progress was slowed over the last several weeks on the passenger door fitting. I have reshaped the timbers and now believe I will have the necessary profiles and clearance around the door jamb. In doing so I needed to add sheetmetal to the bottom and rear corner of the inner door frame structures. The door skin shape didn’t allow a proper clamping surface when crimped. Sheetmetal needed to be added to correct this issue. This required forming and welding addition material for the flange.

I have a TIG and plasma cutter that has been dormant since their purchase six yrs ago and it was time to put them to good use. While setting up my TIG I managed to break the Argon gas solenoid. The solenoid was no longer available from the manufacturer so I hunted the internet for a suitable replacement. That took several anxious weeks for the replacement to arrive. Modification was needed to mount the solenoid external to the welder because the replacement was larger and wouldn’t fit in its original position inside the welder’s casing. Once installed the welder was up and running and worked flawlessly. First time Tig welding and was happy with the results. The flanges have been expanded and all that is left to do is to trim them down to match the door skin’s profile to be completed today. Once the inner structures are primed and sealed and the timbers get a fresh coat of urethane where they had been reshaped I can begin reassembly if the door. Fingers crossed and a few deep sighs I hope the door will be ready for a final fitting into the tub.

I also welded up several misplaced LTD holes on the scuttle for a full tonneau cover by a PO. Holes were drilled into the tool box to mount the Guaranty and Patent data plates. Holes will also be drilled for the battery bumpers, and the tool box lid latches.

My pic won’t load for some reason unknown. The site “times out” before they load.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

I have the same issue loading pics Bill, even ones that loaded easily a few years ago. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Your servers are probably narrowing your band widths, which slows your service, kinda popular thing for them to do now days to get you to buy a faster service they supply. Happened to us. PJ
PJ Jennings

Got to get me a TIG. I used my mig to fill holes on the back plate by the floorboards and ended up with swiss cheese. Finally got them filled, but I think it would have been easier with a TIG.
Bruce Cunha

Bruce, The TIG does a great job. If you can oxy-acetylene weld a TIG is a natural progression from that. It can generate a very fine heat source. TIG requires less amperage than a MiG which allows much less heat soak to surrounding areas reducing warpage but you can easily burn through with TIG as well if your not careful. Being a newbie with TIG it took me a little time to dial in my technique. I also clamped my sheet metal with an under lying heat sink ( either a copper foot on a vise grip appliance or a thick aluminum plate). Your material must be clean to get best results. It requires a straight argon gas instead of a 75/25 mix commonly used for MIG when welding steel. This adds to the cost of another bottle.

I had made a slick compact cart years ago to carry my MIG, TIG and plasma cutter but I only designed it to carry one bottle at a time. I ended up buying a Harbor Freight/Vulcan welding cart that had the capability to carry both bottles which also had a built in storage cabinet to organize all off my welding needs for rods, spools, clamps, magnets, helmets, etc. it’s much heavier and takes up more space in my tiny garage but overall allows me to keep everything welding related in one place. The only drawback to my TIG welder is that it doesn’t have a throttle peddle to vary the amperage while welding. Having this feature would be most helpful. To overcome the lack of a peddle, I used a sample of the material to be welded for a test pattern to set my amperage in advance. With more practice on my part it will likely be my go to process for most of my future sheetmetal work. Each welder has its own dis/advantages but now I have more options.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

Bill and Peter, it may be that your pictures are too big. Try reducing the size (bits not inches) before loading. Microsoft's Paint 3D can reduce the size as well as other programs.

Tim
Timothy Burchfield

Tim I did reduce their size and resolution for this site and it didn’t help. I don’t get the “photo size exceeds the parameters” I get “the request has timed out”. This has been happening for about a month now. I’m not tech savvy but I’ve never had to reduce size or a time out issue on the MGExp site when posting the same pics. Also the other site allows multiple pics per posting which I understand can’t be done here for what ever the reason might be. Like I said I’m not tech savvy. All my pics originate from my IPhone
W A Chasser

Bill - I don’t post photos directly from my iPhone, so I may be all wet ...

If you are posting directly from your iPhone, and if the iPhone “goes to sleep”, then you may need to “wake it up” and sign in to the iPhone again for the BBS to be able to download the pics. Also if you’re using HDR setting on the phone camera, then that may be causing a problem.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Bill - I don’t post from my iPhone, so I may be all wet ...

If you are posting directly from your iPhone, and if the iPhone “goes to sleep”, then you may need to “wake it up” and sign in to the iPhone again for the BBS to be able to download the pics. Also if you’re using HDR setting on the phone camera, then that may be causing a problem.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Progress haS been at a standstill for many months. A six week road trip which included GOFWest and points beyond to the east coast to visit Mike Shea ( the PO for whom I got this car back from) long lost relatives, childhood friends, LaVerne Downey and other members of the WNMC during my return home had kept me from the project. I needed a long overdue break from it. I had hoped the passenger door issue would have spontaneously corrected itself while I was gone but no joy. Lol

After further procrastinations it was time to get back at it. I gave up on the previous attempt to make the passenger door fit properly. The issue being the top front corner was setting proud of the quarter panel by 1”. As the screw holes were well worn from at least three dozen fittings and alterations to the timbers it was time to go with a new set of timbers from The Whitworth Shop. I spent considerable time rethinking my plan and resized the timbers in a way to maximize the area of the lap joints for a solid mating surface. My previous attempt was to screw the timbers together and then reshape the offending areas in the corners. This eventually weakened the joint’s stability by removing timber material close to the screws.

With the “new” set of timbers fitted to the door opening, the air gaps around the perimeter verified and the profiles matching the tub when mounted bare on the hinges it was time for the timbers to be fitted once again to the door skin. With the door loosely tacked together it was reinstalled on the tub. My issue reared it’s ugly head again as the top of the door sat proud of the quarter panel. This time by 3/4”. Manual attempt to tweak the door we’re not fruitful. I then tried an original door to the tub with the same issue. Ugh!!

As a last resort I purchased a set of adjustable inner door cross braces from FTFU. Leaving the original brace in place I installed the adjuster in a X pattern from the the forward part of the top timber to the the bottom timber just ahead of the inner brace that ties the top, hinge and bottom timbers together. With a several turns of the adjuster the door effortlessly pulled into alignment with the tub. Now with the original brace screws into place I now have a rock solid door the fits properly within the door opening.

When this door was originally built at the factory the panel beater did a very poor job of folding and crimping the doorskin to the inner structure. The folds completely missed the back lower corner it was no fully crimped between the hinges and the bottom and front had less than an 1/8” of overlap before being crimped into place. This had to be corrected so the door skin had something to hold on to. Sheetmetal marked, cut and then TIG welded to the inner structures flanges. The the added material was them trimmed to match the door edge profile. Final assembly has been done. Hurrah!

The tool box latches and tabs have now been positioned drilled and riveted. Completing that task.

The crossmember has been riveted to the wheel arches. Misaligned holes for the wheel arches that had been previously welded closed have been repositioned and the arches are now securely attached to the angle iron framework.

Today the windshield will be positioned and the holes will be drilled. With the windshield mocked up and in place the plinth mounted Aeroscreens will then be positioned. Holes will be marked and drilled to accept rivnuts. I can then remove the Aeroscreens at will without leaving unsightly holes in the scuttle to use a full tonneau when desired. The final fitting and adjustments to the spare tire carrier and reinstallation of the subdash will complete the tub’s construction. I hope to get it to the painters by the weekend.



W A Chasser

Pic


W A Chasser

Tool box fasteners completed


W A Chasser

So the cross brace helped some?
L E D LaVerne

LaVerne it pulled it all the way in. There is a shadow in the pic above but at that point the door hadn’t been crimped down yet. It now sits flat against the quarter panel.
W A Chasser

One Aeroscreen mounted today. Windshield mounting bracket holes drilled.

Moss WS mounting bracket hardware kit PN 323-898 is a joke. The (6) 1/4” diameter screws are too short and barely protrude through the scuttle side timbers Didn’t have this problem 4 yrs ago on TD-4834.


W A Chasser

Bill,

Please share about the mirror. It's oval instead of rectangular. Was this something custom to the car added later on?

Looks like you're getting close! Well done.

Frank

TF1414
Frank Cronin

you give new meaning to "labor of love"....
Keith Yarbrough(TD 1275)

TheI drivers side Aeroscreen is now installed after repairing a misplaced set of mounting holes with my TIG welder. Today should be the final day of fitting the latches to the passenger door, installing the sub dash and mounting the scuttle brace brackets.

Frank, I can’t say much about the oval mirror. It was mounted on TD-24060 when I purchased It. The mirror is 6” long, the backside is painted metal flake silver, similar to rim paint, and there are no manufacturer’s marks that I can see. It is not a Day/Night mirror. Personally I think it goes well with the scuttle’s curvatures for a softer look

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

I forgot the pic


W A Chasser

Finally, heading to the paint shop in the morning.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151


W A Chasser

Wow! When I delivered the car yesterday I was truly surprised to hear the painter say they would begin the prep work on the car Monday. The shop had just finished three major restorations and mine was next in line. Talk about a stroke of good luck for a change. Maybe I’ll get this back before New Years.
W A Chasser

There has been a slight delay in the paint project. I’m heading back to the shop this AM to go over a couple items and to sign a detailed work order. Work will then commence in earnest this morning.

Next for me is to complete the dash board assembly. I will be applying red woven rexine to the original dash board that carries my dads signature on the backside. For the moment it will be safely tucked away. I have an engine turned veneer that was purchased from Bob Grunau several years ago. I have installed it on a separate dash board and fitted the NOS center panel, switches, and gauges. I have some trimming to do to the veneer to fitted the NOS speedo, tach and oil temp gauges. The oil temp gauge to be located
To the left of the speedo. (LHD). The subdash harness will be installed and I will be fabricating two 16” wiring pigtails with. Micro pin connection plugs to extend the under dash wiring to the main harness. This will enable me to have a simple means to disconnect for dash removals and to be able to withdraw the complete dash from the sub dash as a complete unit to troubleshoot gremlins while leaving the connections intact. Once the final veneer is trimmed fit the perimeters the NOS beading will be installed. I need to talk with Peter Hehir re the brown flocking for glove box.

Lots of sub-assemblies to complete over the fall and winter prior to the car returning home so that I can facilitate a methodical and expedient chassis assembly. I’m really getting excited about the project now that the wheels are in motion. It’s been a long time since I’ve felt this way as the tub and door rexonstruction has been a real grind over the last year.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

Sacramento, CA, USA USA
Top Contributor
It’s a done deal. After a further meeting of the minds, the work order was signed and production begins tomorrow. The shop owner says 6-8 weeks should have the job completed. Rock Guard under the rear half of the wings and full wheel arches, bodywork, etch prime and sealed, base coat, three clear topcoats followed by a dry sand with 800 grit and three clear flow coats. The final cut and buff I will do when the car is assembled. While I was there they did a spray out on a card so I could see if I could possibly come up with a suitable silver/grey welting material. If not the. I will get something close and have the welting color sprayed with a flex agent to match the body panels.


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060
W A Chasser


I’ve been down for the last month with a tenacious respiratory infection and I haven’t been able to work on anything. Since I haven’t been able to make the drive to the paint shop I decided to directly message the painter for a progress report which reads in part;

“ The body, doors rear fenders and both front and back lower panels (aprons) primed blocked and reprimed. I can send pictures tomorrow”.

So good progress has been made thus far and sounds like they are on track. Will share the pics when I get them. At some point I have to get back out there. I forgot to take the measurements for all the welting that is needed for the wings, running boards and front apron. I was surprised that when I made up the welting for TD-4834 the rear wings were not the same length and so I want to make sure my measurements are accurate. Aah the variances of hand formed sheetmetal. Lol


Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060
W A Chasser

I got another update from the paint shop today. All panels except for the front wings are ready for their final prime, guide coat and block sanding. The wings have several more hours of work left to do before they are ready for their first prime and blocking.



W A Chasser

I got a call from the paint shop yesterday requesting that I come out and inspect the body work before the panels go into the spray booth for color. So I spent this morning talking with the owner and the painter face to face making a few suggestions of things needing to be addressed and developed a game plan for the next stage. Overall I am quite pleased with the progress and the quality of the work to this point. They are on schedule even after having a couple of setbacks. Shops staying on schedule rarely occurs when doing complete restoration paint work. It is refreshing to see, a testament to their professionalism and puts me on notice to get back to work on my end. Everything has been reprimed, guide coated and blocksanded. A few touch ups to do today. They are breaking early for the New Year’s holiday. The bonnets, running boards, aprons and wings will go into the booth Thursday morning to have their B sides painted.

Next week all the panels will be painted and cleared. The following week they will be rubbed out and ready to come home. Then the fun begins.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

The B sides got done two days ago. I’m not sure I’m going to like the application of the rock guard. The rear wings are fine and I had them leave me six inches at the forward part of the rear wings so I could re apply the grease pen inspection marks. The front wings look like they got a wider application. I had intended it to only be 7-9” wide I didn’t want it visible from a 10’ side view when the wings are mounted on the chassis. It looks like the painter went much further down the inside of the wing. I will go out Monday to take a closer look at it. Im expecting the tub and all the other panels to go back in the booth early next week to be top-sided.

Color is much darker in the photos and does match the color in the previous firewall pics



W A Chasser

Returned to the shop yesterday. The Rock Guard is well out of sight on the front wings. Everything done thus far was beyond my expectations with the exception of one minuscule paint flaw in an unseen area. My yardage for the fenderwelt hadn’t arrived at the upholstery shop as expected last Thursday or Friday so I didn’t get it picked up yesterday. still waiting on it so I can get it out to the shop before the panels all go into the booth later this week.

Pics of the B side bonnet top panel


Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151



W A Chasser

Made another trip to the paint shop to deliver the fender welting I had made up. The B side painted parts were being masked and readied. All the panels and welting will go in the booth tonight and be sprayed tomorrow AM. I’m wringing my hands with anticipation. Will go back out to the shop on Monday to look things over before it all gets clear-sanded throughout the week


Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151


W A Chasser

Today the topsides of all panels were painted and cleared.


W A Chasser

Wings, headlight buckets, arms license and lamp brackets


W A Chasser

Doors and bonnet sides


W A Chasser

Tub, fuel tank and running boards


W A Chasser

Front wings. Tomorrow I will go to the shop for a closer inspection before the clear-coat sanding begins in preparation for the flow coats


W A Chasser

Looking good Bill. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Bill,
I think that's a beautiful and interesting color...it changes depending on how the light strikes the panels. Very well done.
Charlie
Charlie Adams

Peter,
Thanks Mate!

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

Looks great! Getting it painted is the "top of the mountain" restoration wise in progress and now you can start getting it assembled. Including the fun stuff like putting on chrome....

Get your interior ordered?

Frank

TF1414
Frank Cronin

Thanks Charlie and Frank. I wish I could take credit for the paint this time but I think the car body panels are in capable hands. I look forward to inspecting the work in person today.

Frank, I haven’t made a decision yet on the interior. I do have a red Moss red leather and vinyl panel kit. Should I decide to finish the car with a Moss kit I will have to order leather from them to complete the factory bucket seats to match. I’m not entirely convinced that the color is true to the original. Certainly the materials aren’t as with being an early car it was trimmed with rexine. Bruce Cunha and I have been researching book binding materials that have similar weave patterns to match the rexine. This could be used to replicate the rexine on the panels, boot and dashboard. One of the issues again is that there are a very limited modern color choices for red. I have three sets of original rexine panels from my various projects but all are tired, faded and threadbare they have little value to ascertain what the original color truly was.

I had Tom Wilson at Kimber Creek send me leather and vinyl samples several years ago. I will need to re-evaluate them as well. The book binding sample I received from other venders is not a match. If I was close to Tom I would certainly have him trim out the interior at his shop. Unfortunately he is clear across the country. Had the car been assembled last year when I did my cross country trip after GOFWest I would have simply made a detour on my return from the east coast.

Jim Silva is another well respected trimmer who is known in the MG community on the West Coast. He too, has done many award winning concours interiors on vintage MGs and comes highly recommended. He is in the Bay Area about 90 miles from me. I have not been in contact with him regarding trimming this car yet. I will need to get the tub installed, the wiring and the final woodwork completed before I can make a determination as to who will finish the interior. .

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151


W A Chasser

Bill,

I was looking around last year for rexine matches and obtained a red sample from Martrim that will do nicely for my dashboard. Its quite close to my Moss interior color. If you have not see this product, perhaps it will be suitable.

See here: https://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/vinide-leather-cloth-rexine.php

Charlie
Charlie Adams

Reason I asked is because if you want the kit from Kimber, you better get in touch with him now to find out where you would be on the queue. He's a one man shop and probably filled up and won't get to your car the time you expected. If you want a factory correct interior, colors used, Connolly leather, Tom is the way to go.

This probably could be the case with this trimmer on the west coast so reach out to them and get on the list sooner than later.

Frank

TF1414
Frank Cronin

Just returned from the paint shop to do a progress inspection. Excellent work but I found two issues with a bit of a ripple in the right outer edge of the right side running board and rear wing. They will be addressed and resprayed this afternoon along with the door hinges, tire rack and and tank side panels. All the panels that were sprayed last night will be block sanded. Flow coats should go on by Thursday. The color is even better seeing it in person. The tub was outside when I arrived and what sunlight was available really brought out the color. The way the light refracts of the metallic and the greenish opacity makes the finish seem alive. It all changes at the angles which it is viewed upon.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151



W A Chasser

Bill this a sample of the original red taken from a TD with original upholstery that was painted black in the 60's. It was not exposed to sunlight so it hasn't faded. Cheers
Peter T5801


P Hehir

Thanks Peter. I recently got an email from Bill Hite stating that he had discovered there was a brighter red rexine that was used on some cars. This would tend to confirm my suspicions that the current offerings may not be a true representation. I’m trying to get more information regarding this. I will share the information as it becomes available. I have seen several pics in the past on the internet showing this brighter (almost Apple Red) interior but can’t confirm that they are an original appearance. I do have what appears to be the brighter upholstery from TD 24060 but being a later car it also has different materials, Vynide(?) which is a different texture than my earlier cars with rexine. I’ll have to pull all my original early pieces from the attic and make a closer inspection.

Bill Chasser
TD/c-8151
W A Chasser

The paintwork has been completed. They were starting the final cut and buff yesterday. I’ ll start transporting parts back home beginning Monday. It will take three 40 mile round trips to get everything transported to the house safely and hopefully without damage.
W A Chasser

This thread was discussed between 29/07/2017 and 18/01/2020

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