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MG TD TF 1500 - td fuel tank removal
| Can any TD owner please advise me how to reinstall the sender unit on my tank. With a struggle I managed to remove the sender unit, the green light has been alight for at last 12 years, I found that the float was full of fuel. I have connected the wires up and every thing works ok. My problem is that I am having problems getting the top screws back in. There is not enough space for screwdriver, the old ones where Hexagon and managed to get off with small spanner. I think I may have to take the tank off, is there an easier way to achieve this or maybe cut inspection hole from inside ?. |
Another point that is puzzling me is Brown & Gammons say the the cover plate needs to be fitted upside down,apparently if fitted as stamped this will result in failure although mine seems go on and off ok so will leave it as it is.
I am finding it more difficult to get under these wonderful motor cars and regret not having a pit and have no space for ramp, not that my good lady would agree to it if I had. she is its time to get rid of it and have a sensible modern car, You are 75 you know. !!
Best Wishes Roger Cork
|r c cork|
|I just reinstalled mine. While I do have a ratchet right angle screw driver I found that a1/4" drive with a socket and adapter did the job.|
I am 79- 10/12 problem is getting up after lying on my back under the car.
|Thanks for your suggestion Jim B, will try to borrow ratchet, think my son in law may have one.|
My problem too getting up from underneath, also get a bit dizzy. Is there any instructions anywhere on line that gives you step by step for tank removal if it comes to that ?.
Kind Regards Roger
|r c cork|
|Roger, it's important to use the correct screws in installing the sender unit. If yours has not been leaking then I will believe that you have screws of the correct thread. If you are lucky enough to have them with hex heads you should be able to install them with a 1/4" drive ratchet. Just be certain to tighten them a bit at a time in a sequence and be certain not to overtighten them. Check the archives for more on this topic.|
I've never heard of the idea of mounting the cover plate with the word 'TOP' at the bottom.
Bud (a youngster, only 78 8/12)
|See http://www.ukmgparts.com/pdfs/27h214.pdf for the B&G info on the cover. It only applies to covers for their reproduction sending units. Bud|
|Roger-- I believe the TD is the same as the TF. Forgive me if I am in error. I have used a standard screwdriver with a somewhat narrow head and haven't had any trouble getting it to fit. I found that for the upper screws it helps to stick the head of the screw to the screwdriver with a piece of tape (or anything that is sticky) to align the screw in the tight space. I also use a Permatrex thread-locker (blue tube) on the screws and have never had a leak. This is assuming the screw holes are not enlarged and the screws still fit. I also use the rubber gaskets with a gasket sealer (but it may be just me as I seem to have better luck with rubber versus cork).|
Regarding the float being filled with petrol, this happened to me on the last two units I installed. Very irritating! When I bought a new sensor about a year ago I also purchased a brass float for it. Simply remove the plastic float and insert the brass float. So far it has been working great. Sirry, but I could not remember whether I bought it from Moss or Abingdon.
|On another note I had trouble with leaking sender gaskets. In the end I made sure I soaked it in water for a few hours before putting it in and also made sure I had fuel in it above the sender so the cork did not dry out for long periods. I think once it settles in it may not be a problem to have low fuel level.|
|I'm just curious - I've never had the guts to let the fuel level get low enough to see if the sender in my tank is working or not (haven't tested the bulb or the circuit either but those are fairly easy to do). Is there an easy way to test the sender otheer than draining the tank to see if the light comes on?|
|J K Chapin|
|Jud, if it's working you'll still have about 3+ gallons of gas in the tank when it comes on. How low are you willing to let it get? Do you have one of the fuel tank dip sticks? You're still warm enough down in So. Carolina to go for a spin. Go for a drive until you've got about 5 gallons left (that's above the courage level). At home-- disconnect the fuel line from the rear carburetor and stick it into an (at least) 2 gallon gas can. Turn on your key and let the fuel pump do its thing into the gas can. Watch the low fuel light. You should see it come on. After you're satisfied you can pour the fuel back into the tank. Bud|
|Good plan and a good winter afternoon pasttime. I took it out for a spin yesterday (Gowensville to Tryon, NC, to Landrum, SC and back - about 22 miles at about 38 F). Chilly but exhilerating. No heater but then no hood either. I was warm enough everywhere except for the fingers. Mittens are best for warmth but not the best for steering, shifting and (my remaining vice) puffing on an occassional cig.|
Has anyone tried the heated gloves that motorcyclists use?
|J K Chapin|
I send you an email on what I had to do to remove my tank. Hope it is of help.
|R D Jones|
|I find that the fuel warning light begins to flash at some point when making turns, accelerating or braking. That's your first warning sign but you've still got plenty of fuel left. When the light stays on solid that means you're down to the 3 gallons left level I think but I guess the calibration of the float arm might vary a bit between cars.|
|John Quilter (TD8986)|
This thread was discussed between 24/11/2013 and 26/11/2013
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