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MG TD TF 1500 - TD Horns
Both horns do not work - I have checked the horns and both are getting voltge when horn button is depressed, I took one apart and looks to be in good condition, pin inside coil move but nothing happens when powered on - any suggestions? Thanks Scott |
RSC Scott Cleveland |
RSC Scott -- The horns should have voltage on them at all times. The horn push supplies ground (earth) to the horns, so voltmeter checks should show both terminls of the horn at 12 volts when the push is not activated. When it is, one of the terminals should go to earth. Good luck, Bob |
R. K. (Bob) Jeffers |
http://www.british-car-part-restoration.com/lucas_horns.html Restored horns used to be around $75. Less to rebuild your own. Bob is correct- one side is always hot. The switch completes the ground, so try grounding the other side to a known ground to test. Check your e mail also! George |
George Butz |
Scott - despair not - horns are easy to repair assuming current supply OK and windings not burnt out. I always use a 12v battery charger on both leads(either way round)- easier on the ears and the neighbours ! Also sensitive to small adjustments - undo locknut on points and adjust slowly until horn 'buzzes'/sounds. Remember you're on the batt. charger - full 12volts will then sound normally. If necessary clean points with fine wet&dry paper etc and get rid of dust. There is a max amps. the points should take for optimum efficiency (7.5-8.5 for 12v)but assuming it was set up OK originally a small adjustment should be all that is necessary. If the diaphragm push rod underneath is stuck Wd40 may work. Otherwise things do get more complicated with special armature nut spanners (wrenches)needed though these can be homemade. Using batt. charger method low amps. make adjustments safe - just take your time and adjust and test,adjust and test. Best of luck John. |
J.C Mitchell |
This thread was discussed on 18/06/2006
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