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MG TD TF 1500 - TD pedal box repair
Today, Satureday our Register changed out, repaired the pedal box on a members TD. 13 people worked and sever others observed the tec session. This included working on dizz and of coourse remooving the master cylinder and replacing it. He drove it home, This session showed all the aspectes and improvements done to properly lub the shaft. Our register is doing this to get cars on the road that the owners are not able to do for themselves and to teach and draw enehuiasm. lunch went well as the wives made cards to send to members on various occasions. This is done i the name for Southeastern MG T Register Ellis Carlton |
Ellis Carlton |
These events are great. I wish our local club had more people who worked on their cars (T club that is). Many of those here in our local have already rebuilt their cars and don't work on them much anymore. There are a few and those resources are great, but the community assosicated with working together on a project would be nice. Alex |
ABW Waugh |
If you have a summary of the mods done to improve lubrication in that awfully inconvenient place, we would all appreciate your posting them. Thanks. Tom |
t lange |
Ditto on the pedal box mods, also a summary of the procedures to replace the shaft would be appreciated. Cheers, Jim |
James Neel TD28423 |
Hi Guys - I plan to do a more detailed piece on this Tech Session for our newsletter - but here is a quick version. Ellis is correct that our recent Tech Squad Sessions have been aimed at "getting the cars on the road" - so that owners can join us for our various driving events. We are also in the final stages of a total brake system rebuild of a members car. So we hope to have two more cars at future BBQ runs and tours. A new member visited us yesterday during the Tech Session and we will help him with some minor repairs on his TC in the next month or so. The lubrication modifications made to the replacement shaft followed along the lines found online - though I did make a few changes. I had the two existing lubrication holes on the Moss replacement shaft drilled completely through (to create two additional lubrication holes). The shaft was then drilled through to create two more additional lubrication holes at 2.5 inches in from the circliped end. This gave a total of 6 lubrication holes. The 6 holes were chamfered and each two-hole set was connected by concentric lubrication grooves (for a total of 3 grooves). These lubrication points provide grease to the following points: 1 - The first (outer)in-frame shaft bushing 2 - The second (inner) in-frame shaft bushing 3 - The brake pedal bushing We tested the grease flow with the bushings prior to fitting. I was able to confirm that grease went to each opening and it did travel via the grooves around the shaft. I did not use the spiral grooves as the machine shop was unable to cut those properly - I think the spiral groove would be best. The only two tips that I would add to the existing threads on the BBS involve the clutch pedal arm connection to the shaft. I spent some time wet sanding the woodruff key so that it was a simple slip into the shaft. This greatly improves your ability to place it was you reassemble (the Moss key provided is just a bit too wide for this application - it would not be a problem for normal use though) The second thing to do is to spread the clutch pedal arm end so that it easily slides over the new shaft - you want all of this to go together easily when working in the small space. Please note that we did not need to remove the floorboards and the pedal box did not have the large round opening found on the later boxes. I did remove the left front fender so that we could drive out and drive in the new frame bushings. This job is not as bad as folks say. It is not easy - but it is not terrible. The big issue is always the 50 year collection of sand, dirt and grease in the box. The job is made worse if the clutch arm has rusted to the actual pedal shaft. We soaked that area with PB Blaster for two days prior to the removal and replacement. One caution when removing the frame bushings. Be sure to use a mandrel rather than a screw driver or punch. You want to make sure you dont damage the interior surface of the round hole in the frame. Any damage will need to be smoothed out if you want the new bushings to properly seat. I'll post some photos later, Jeff |
Jeff Delk |
Hi Jeff, Thank you for your helpful procedures on the padal box refurbishing. I also just wanted show you an image of a puller I made which I found useful for extracting the frame bushings without removing the fender etc. It consists of a threaded rod, tube, washer sized to fit I.D of frame's bore, large washer, and some lock nuts. The method is not unlike that used for removing suspension busings etc. Cheers Phil |
Phil Atrill |
Phil - that is a nice tool. I will have to try that on the next one! Are you able to tap in the new bushings without difficulty or distortion? It must save a lot of time. Great idea. |
Jeff Delk |
Jeff, Thanks, I preferred to drive in the new bushings using the appropriate stepped mandrel from my bushing driver set, as I am a little fussier about not mangling the edge of the bushing on the way in. There is more of an accessibility issue when using the driver attachment, so I just started the bushings using the mandrel and a soft hammer until the bushing started squarely into the bore, then completed the installation using a short drver on the mandrel. Hope this makes sense. Cheers Phil
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Phil Atrill |
Yes - that is what we used - a mandrel. Did you have room to do that on a TD with the fender on the car? Now I feel stupid for removing the fender! |
Jeff Delk |
I did both removal and installation operations from the tranny side of the pedal box, but I believe that I jacked up the tranny slightly after disconnecting the rear mount just for some extra elbow room. Phil |
Phil Atrill |
Here are a few photos of the modified shaft.
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Jeff Delk |
Another
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Jeff Delk |
one more
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Jeff Delk |
Nice work, Jeff. |
Dave Braun |
Somebody say TD pedal box repair?
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LED DOWNEY |
I didn't do the grooves on the shaft but did drill through the shaft in the same places.
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LED DOWNEY |
Forty-five years ago, using a small triangular file, I hand-cut two spiral grooves around the shaft, and drilled through for a second grease fitting. I slathered it with MOS². Its never moved in 45 years . I very occasionally give it a shot (every 3 or 4 years). Gord Clark Rockburn, Qué. |
Gordon A Clark |
This thread was discussed between 15/08/2010 and 16/08/2010
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