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MG TD TF 1500 - TD release bearing
Hey guys, While driving my car yesterday I was unable to get the car to go into gear at a stop light. I am pretty sure the release bearing failed on it. Obviously I am going to need to separate the tranny from the engine. I know this has been talked about in here a million times but....can this be done without removing the engine? What is the best way to attack this issue? Thanks guys, Rich |
Rich King TD 8732 |
Remove seats
Remove carpet Remove Gearbox cover Remove floorboards Disconnect driveshaft, linkage, etc. Put a jack under the sump to support the engine. I like to use a scissor jack so that I don't worry about a hydraulic jack losing pressure. Jack up the sump about 1/2 inch Unbolt gearbox from cross member (two bolts) and from block Don't remove the saddle that holds the rubber mount from the gearbox, unless you plan to replace the mount while the gearbox is out. Remove gearbox I like to remove the steering wheel, too. The job goes fast after the carpet etc are out. Lonnie TF681 TF7211 |
LM Cook |
Rich, what makes you suspect the throw out bearing? Not that he needs it, but I second what Lonnie said. Pull the speedo cable too I believe. Regards, Tom |
tm peterson |
Did you have a solid peddle that couldn’t be pushed ? If so, more likely a clutch failure. Just had this happen to TD -4834 at end of last driving season. I believe a spring Popped out of my clutch disc or pressure plate and is jamming the mechanism. Won’t know for sure until I take it apart.
I bought a floater clutch and aluminum spider flywheel kit (13.5 lbs total weight) from Gold Star Race Clutch and a roller release bearing from Manley Ford. They just arrived. I went this route because the std clutch setup wasn’t up to the task with my race prepped engine. I’m also worried about a flywheel explosion with the stock cast flywheel with ultra high revs. I’ve been staying below 5500rpm for the most part. The advantages with these lightweight parts is quicker rev response both on and off the throttle, stronger clamping force with the three paddle Kevlar disc. They also offer ceramic and sintered iron compounds options for more aggressiveness. Yes, this is a race clutch. Waiting for a HiGear installation kit to install my NOS Type 9 tranny. My kit is coming with a Richfield speedo gear correction, back up switch, speedo drive pinion, and custom heavy duty driveline to accommodate 8000rpm. Should be shipping any day now. They currently have a two month backlog on orders. I had ordered my kit in late January or early February. Needless to say I’m anxious to get my fast road car back on the road for another spirited driving session. Have fun with your R&R. Im not looking forward to crawling around under the scuttle tearing out my interior. Bill Chasser TD-4834 |
W A Chasser |
Rich,
Before going to all the trouble of pulling out the gearbox, there are a couple things to check. I assume that you have a rod, not a cable. 1/ With your hand, push the clutch pedal back and forth to verify that the clearance is correct, it should not be more than 3/4 inch. You can adjust it to 1/2 inch to see if that makes a difference. 2/ Check that all the pivot points of the linkage have minimal play. If the carbon thrust bearing has failed or is totally worn, you will hear metallic grinding noises when pressing the clutch pedal. John |
J Scragg |
I have had this happen twice in 50 years, both involved the rod between the sump and the gearbox. On one the rod broke at a weld and on a new replacement the fork pulled out of the end of the rod. So a quick look underneath will hopefully give you a simple solution. |
B W Wood |
If you have an aluminum sump I would be careful jacking up the engine under the sump unless it is well cushioned and the pressure of the jack is spread out. On another car with an aluminum sump, I once heard that doing this without precautions resulted in a cracked sump. |
John Quilter (TD8986) |
That is a good point. I use a 2x4 across the back edge of my aluminum sump. Regards, Tom |
tm peterson |
How I support the engine with the transmission out. PJ
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PJ Jennings |
PJ, how are you handling this ugly weather> Bud |
Bud Krueger |
Trying to stay warm and dry Bud! The weather here is starting to stabilize but very windy due to the warm up, which is typical for Oklahoma. Problem now is wild fires in certain parts of the state and 40 to 50 mph winds are keeping the fire crews very busy. PJ |
PJ Jennings |
Hey guys, Thanks to everyone that replied. I have been super busy and have not had time to get back in here. To tm peterson, honestly the release bearing is just a guess at this point. I had a rattle in there for some time. Also When I did get the car moving I could hear what sounded like pieces flying around in there. To W A Chasser, yes the peddle felt fine, just as normal. To J Scragg, Antibes, the plan tomorrow is to trouble shoot the problem, I will look into your suggestions, thanks. I will keep you all posted on what I find. Thanks again for the input.
Rich |
Rich King TD 8732 |
Do you guys thing the drive shaft tunnel will have to come out to get the tranny back far enough to clear the shaft? |
Rich King TD 8732 |
This was the problem. One of the three bolts broke. We have a new pressure plate and clutch plate on hand. should be back in business soon. |
Rich King TD 8732 |
Good Regards, Tom |
tm peterson |
This thread was discussed between 31/03/2023 and 16/04/2023
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