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MG TD TF 1500 - TD Spin off oil filter from Moss

Anyone know if you reuse the large washer that was originally behing the late TD oil canister when using the Moss spin off adapter?
don't think you should but would like confirmation of that.
Cheers,
Dave Houser
mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com
Len Fanelli

Put 'em away for posterity's sake. The only thing you'll need is the big rubber gasket. For a look at installation, see http://www.ttalk.info/Oil_filter.htm. I bought mine directly from Bob Grunau.
Bud Krueger

Len,

As the designer of the Moss kit, You do not need the large washer. Please make sure you tighten the threaded nipple properly.
Best regards,
Terry P.

Terry Peddicord

Be very carful when you screw in the nipple . It has a hole drilled through it that you are to put a rod into to screw it in . What can happen is that the rod can flatten out a tiny portion of the threads that go into the filter and you will not even know it until you screw on the filter . It will start just fine and then get tight , not real tight so as you will stop but it can shave off a fine sliver of the soft steel on the filter thread and the sliver may work it's way into your engine, not good.
I installed one and it did it to me . I removed the new filter to see why it was tight and saw what looked like a tiny spring hanging off the filter, it was a shaveing from the damaged thread.
Other than that it is a great improvment all around.
Alan

Alan, look at http://www.ttalk.info/Oil_filter.htm for the installation of one of Bob Grunau's adapters. There's no hole drilled through for installation, just a good solid hex head. The old system uses a cross drilled hole for removal. Are you saying that the Moss system is different from Bob Grunau's? Maybe Terry can shed some light on this.
Bud Krueger

My aluminum adapter has four holes in the exposed part between the pump and the filter when installed. They are 90 degrees apart and allow for tightening of the adapter with a short rod of similar diameter. These holes are only drilled to about 1/4 to 3/8" in depth.
Jim Merz

Bob's has a hex head as in integral part of the adapter. It can be seen in http://www.ttalk.info/AlmostIn.jpg. As I recall, it takes about a 1 inch socket and is very handy for using with a torque wrench for his recommended 25 ft-lbs of torque.
Bud Krueger

Bud,
The Moss product doesn't have the hex head, only a hole driled through the shaft that you tighten with a rod. Having seen both...I'd opt for the Grunau product, although I'm quite happy with the Moss spin-on adapter
Bob D
Robert Dougherty

I have had Bob's adapter's on my car for 5 years. It is bullet-proof and has little to no chance of cross-screwing or metal shavings working their way out into your engine. It is a big, solid piece of metal!! Takes no time at all to change a filter.
Rob
Rob Silverman

Hi Bud, I wish I had known about the Grunaus set up two years ago. It looks like a much better set up .
However the Moss set up is more British in nature , why build it with a hex on it so that it would be easy when we can just drill a hole in so it will be clumsy to do and risk snapping it upon instalation where is the risk where is the fun ?
Alan

Speaking of the spin-on filters....I've run across a problem that's got me a bit perplexed. I have the Moss version with the hole through shaft on my TF. When I did an oil change today (2nd or 3rd one since installing the adapter) the threaded shaft came out with the filter. I un-did it from the old filter, threaded it back on the adapter plate and tightened it down using a short allen wrench slipped into the hole. I then proceeded to install the new filter using an end-cap filter tightener/wratchet wrench.

When I started the car I got a pretty good puddle of oil after about a minute of running but then it stopped. I then tightened the filter pretty good (it was not as snug as it could have been) and that seemed to stop the leak. However, after I shut the engine off...it started dripping. I started the engine up again...and the dripping stoppped. Shut it off...the dripping started again?????

Not sure what is wrong. Perhaps a bad seal on the new filter? There is also a rubber seal under the adapter plate. Do those ever go bad and leak? Did I under-torque the shaft befor putting the filter on? Did I perhaps over-torque the filter trying to tighten the shaft and filter at the same time? Are the adapter plate seals available seperately? I don't want to keep trying to tighten it as I don't think that's the answer.

I know this may seem a bit silly....after all it just an oil filter change...but I can't figure out why its leaking. Any suggestions?

Thanks

Jim Rice
Jim Rice

It's probably the the rubber ring seal between the pump body and the spin on adapter. They get hard over a period of time and are usually ok unless you remove the filter or in your case the adaptor plate. Once you have removed the adapter plate you are most likely going to need a new gasket to get it to seal back up.

LaVerne
LED DOWNEY

Jim, as LaVerne suggests, I'd suspect that it's leaking at the rubber ring that seals the adapter to the pump. It may be an extreme way to get a new ring, but if you buy a NAPA 1300 oil filter you'll get three rings with it. One of them is the .088 in. thick one that seems to do the best job. I'd suggest a look at my web page about the Grunau adapter, http://www.ttalk.info/Oil_filter.htm to see the modified 3/4 in. socket that I used to remove the old system. I'm guessing that you could use it to install the Moss system. Bob suggests torquing to 25 ft-lbs. With a new .088 ring, I think that should cure your leak. Remember, the filter itself only needs to be tightened about 3/4 turn after it's rubber seal contacts the adapter.
Bud Krueger

Thanks to all for the input. I ended-up talking to Bob Grunau, and looking at the info you provided Bud, I've decided to switch to the Grunau adapter. I like the fact it's steel versus the Moss aluminum and the ability to get a socket on a nut for precise tightening is better.

Best regards,

Jim


Jim Rice

Gentlemen,

In defence of my original design, I put a hole (2 not 4) in the nipple for ease of installation. I found it was not so easy to get a ratchet and deep socket down there. My first test vehicle was my wifes TF and it's cozy down there. If you tighten the nipple to the point of distorting the threads around the hole, your over-tightening it!!! That said, if you then generate a sliver of metal when installing the filter, the sliver would be on the outside of the element. The direction of the oil travel would then carry it into the filter where it would be caught by the filter element which is the point of this silly exercise anyway. In the course of the 20+ years I have been designing automotive componants, I've always tried to "Idiot proof" my designs and often this is the hardest part of the task.
Terry Peddicord

This thread was discussed between 12/03/2006 and 22/03/2006

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